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Sarracenias not coming up right.

Sarracenias not coming up right. (updated)

Here are two pictures of the plants. I hope this shows enough for you guys to see what's going on. I put them in the sun, outside the shade house, but this seemed to burn them very quickly. It is very hot here at the moment. 30-40 D.C.

I'm in Mandurah, a small city on the south-west cost of Western Australia, roughly 400km from where Cephalotus can be found growing wild.

dash_jayne


dash_jayne


You should be able to zoom in on the pics. If not, here are the links to where they are being hosted.

http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/dash_jayne/?action=view&current=S1030991.jpg

http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/dash_jayne/?action=view&current=S1030988.jpg
 
Hi Michael,

I guess it would help if we knew your location. From your statement, I assume that you're in the southern hemisphere. It would be useful if you could provide pictures so we can asses the situation. It might also help if you can photograph the location where the plants are and what the current temperatures and weather conditions in your locality are like. It's also helpful to know the species of sarra that we're talking about as different species put out pitchers at different times. Finally, please examine your plants for any signs of pests like aphids, scale or thrips.

Not fully knowing all these things, it sounds as if your plants might be etiolated due to lack of sunlight. A second reason that I've seen for deformed growth is if your water is not RO or distilled.
 
just to add into the mix, maybe they're not getting enough sunlight. i've had this problem, as i lived in a condo--the brightest lighted window was western facing. my S. flava and leucophylla, especially had problems producing nice pitchers, while my purpurea, alata, and rubra faired much better.
 
Finally, please examine your plants for any signs of pests like aphids, scale or thrips.

That was my thought too. Without more details or pictures, it sounds like bugs.
~Joe
 
seems i read thet some sarr. produce early spring pitchers that are some what wimpy , they fall over, are lidless. and most of the time they dont even open , maybe in a week or two they will start producing larger and more sturdy pitchers, dont give up . I know there is a name for the early pitchers, Help anyone know that name cant find it in my one book on sarrs. sar.rubra produce quite a lot of these thay are alos deformed and curl
 
the odd pitchers i'm speaking of are called, phyllodia,
 
Phyllodia aren't pitchers. They are ensiform (sword-shaped) leaves. That's different than an 'odd pitcher'.
 
brokken do you think that may be what requiemsone may be talking about ? he says just the tall ones ??
 
Jimmy: Some species are prone to putting phyllodia more than others. Again, I defer my answer to the need to know more about the environment, the growing conditions and the species (ideally, provide pictures) before one can asses what the problem might be.

It may not even be a pure species - in which case it would be extremely hard to tell what the grow habits are.
 
  • #10
Hey guys, sorry for not getting back to you before hand. Pictures are on there way; just waiting for the other half to get the camera back.

In the mean time, I live in West Australia, the plants are on a shelf outside under shade cloth and sitting in trays of rainwater at about a depth of 1-2". Each plant is individually potted in a mix of Canadian spag peat and perlite.

Species include;

alata
purpurea (which seem to be doing fine)
" " venosa
Flava

On the stand next to them I have some Nepth which all seem to be doing rather well, despite the heat. At the moment most days hover about 30 - 35 up to 40 (though not too often) degrees C.

There are no bugs. I went over each of the plants with a magnifying glass (literally).

Am I alright leaving them in water constantly, the pots that is. Looking at pictures many of you have posted, very few seem to have their plants in water like I do. Anyway, pictures soon.

Oh, last thing, the shade cloth is 50%
 
  • #11
No need for shade cloth. Sarrs can handle full sunlight without any issues. Your Nepenthes are doing well because they do not like full sunlight; 50% shade cloth is their cup of tea.

Just place your plants in full sunlight and keep the tray water no higher than half way up the side of each plant's pot.

I think that's probably your issue.
 
  • #12
Twisted deformed pitcher leaves are usually a sign of insects like thrips, mealybugs, aphids or scale.

Spindly pitchers that flop over and won't stand upright are usually a sign of not enough sunlight.

Pitchers that flop over or crumple in the afternoon on a hot day are an indication of insufficient water.

Flat leaves are probably phyllodia. The shape and timing of their growth depends primarily on the species or mixture of species. Some are completely flat curved or not. Some have vestigial pitchers with exaggerated ala (the flat ridge or keel that runs the length of the pitcher leaves). There are often intermediate leaves at the start or near the end of the plants growing season.

Unseasonable phyllodia can occur with plants that have not had dormancy for several years. Too many nutrients in the soil can cause small, vestigial pitchers and exaggerated ala too.

Given your temperatures shade cloth is not a bad idea but you may be able to get by shading the Sarracenia in the afternoon only.

Western Australia is a huge area. I take it you're in the northern area such as Kimberly or well in-land.
 
  • #14
From your pictures it looks like the plants came from the Northern Hemisphere where they would have been in dormancy. I'm assuming this because I see that all of the pitchers have been cut off and there are lots of phyllodia present. If that is the case then the growth you are seeing is most likely stress from the plant as it would be 'out of whack' since it is suppose to be sleeping and not actively growing. In the Northern Hemisphere at this time of year they are accustomed to temperatures between 0 C - 10 C give on average with freezes frequent rather than 30-40C.
I suggest either placing them in the fridge if you've only had them briefly until your next spring. But if you have had them for more than a couple weeks I would let them be and let them go dormant during your coming winter. You should contact the nursery you bought them from and see how they handled their dormancy.
 
  • #15
From your pictures it looks like the plants came from the Northern Hemisphere where they would have been in dormancy. I'm assuming this because I see that all of the pitchers have been cut off and there are lots of phyllodia present.
I'm not sure I follow this logic. Do people in the Southern hemisphere not cut off old pitchers - before, during or just after winter? :scratch: As for phyllodia, leuco's often have some early in spring & middle of summer. Their strongest pitchers are usually in the fall (like the rubra group and opposite flava/oreo).

I think NaN hit it with his comment on deformed pitchers.
 
  • #16
I'm not sure I follow this logic. Do people in the Southern hemisphere not cut off old pitchers - before, during or just after winter?

I was assuming (from the pictures) that plants were grown in the Northern Hemisphere, entered dormancy and were then shipped to requiem who lives in the Southern Hemisphere. I could totally be wrong though and he very well could have had the plants for multiple growing seasons.
 
  • #17
Req, sars aren't neps they NEED and LOVE the bright light and heat. That is the problem! But bugs could also be in the root system...I dont know how to check them other than transplanting them. Also about the water they live in bogs naturally...maybe leave the tray to dry for a day? Unless you're doing a bog setup... Anything I missed?
 
  • #18
Alright. I got plants last spring. They went through dormancy during which time I cut off all the old growth as it died off. Plants are now getting full sun for at least 8-12 hours a day. I refill the tray as it dries, yet ensure that the plants do no dry out completely.
 
  • #19
It looks to me as if they are light starved. If they were burning in the sun then the transition of light levels was to abrupt. Nothing to be done at this point.

Since the equinox has passed you probably won't see much more growth.

Given your climate you should be able to grow them outdoors all year round although you probably need to protect them from the rain in winter.

http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/averages/tables/cw_009572_All.shtml
 
  • #20
Do you suggest then, that I leave them in the sun for several hours a day and then put them back in the shade, gradually increasing their sun exposure over several days, if not weeks? I'm worried though; if the plants do not attain their proper growth and feed, thus fertilising themselves naturally, will they still be able to return the following spring?
 
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