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Cephalotus problems

Exo

Tastes like chicken!
Ok, to make sure that I cover all the bases I'll give a rundown on the chain of events...

1. 2 months ago I got my cephalotus, it looked good and I noticed it was in a peat/sand mix. I was told that it would be fine in such a mix and I read that in dense mixes like that it is better to keep it a bit drier an the surface.....so I did.

2. 2 weeks later I noticed that some of the smaller pitchers were turning yellow, but overall the plant looked good. When I asked about this I was told that the top of my mix looked too dry. I then decided to keep my plant a bit more wet, but not sitting in water.

3. At the end of last month I noticed two new growth points coming up, I figured that maybe my decision to keep it more damp payed off. Now a week later the growth points are large with leaves and a a pitcher tendril each, but a few of the leaves are turning yellow on one side of one growth point.

I haven't watered in a few weeks, but the soil hasen't dried out much and the top is still damp (this mix seems to really hold water). My conditions are temps of 68F day and 54F night and a humidity of 60% day and 85% night with good airflow. I never mist the plant or allow water to get in the crown. I have fed it some ants but not fertillized it and I use rain water to water it. It gets enough light to turn the pitchers and leaves reddish.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks.
 
exo,

ask this of 20 people and you are likely to get 20 conflicting answers....

so for what its worth, from what info you have given....
the fact that you haven't watered in weeks sounds very odd to me. If its still doesn't need watering weeks later then I would change something. I always water mine weekly at most, and usually more often then that. Depending on mix, some as often as daily.

Watering also facilitates a gas exchange in the root system, as the water percolates down fresh air is pushed in behind it.

Most plant roots need oxygen, if that environment becomes "stale" then root health will decline. If CO2 levels get over just a few percentage points in this zone then plants die.

If you're worried about getting the crown wet do the "dunk and drain method". Put the pot in a pan of water that goes up to about an inch or so below the surface level. Let it sit a few mins then pull it out and let it drain. As the water drains fresh air will enter the root zone.

If you havent watered in weeks then something is wrong with this picture...

But of course YMMV,
Av
 
exo,

ask this of 20 people and you are likely to get 20 conflicting answers....

so for what its worth.... from what info you have given....
the fact that you haven't watered in weeks sounds very odd to me. If its still doesn't need watering then I would change something. I always water mine weekly at most, and usually more often then that.

Watering also facilitates a gas exchange in the root system, as the water percolates down fresh air is pushed in behind it.

Roots need oxygen, if that environment becomes "stale" then root health will decline. If CO2 levels get over just a few percentage points in this zone then plants die.

If you're worried about getting the crown wet do the "dunk and drain method". Put the pot in a pan of water that goes up to about an inch or so below the surface level. Let it sit a few mins then pull it out and let it drain. As the water drains fresh air will enter the root zone.

But of course YMMV,
Av

The soil is still pretty damp, you think I should water it anyway?
 
If you havent watered in weeks then why is it still damp?

That's the first issue i would address

is the substrate holding too much water?
is there insufficient airflow?
etc etc etc

The soil remaining damp for weeks is a symptom of a more fundamental problem IMHO
 
If you havent watered in weeks then why is it still damp?

That's the first issue i would address

Well, the sand/peat mix it came in is pretty dense stuff, so I guess that might be why. I was told that some people grow them fine in mixes like that, so I decided to not risk disturbing it and leave it be.

The airflow in the chamber is good, so I'm kinda shocked that it has stayed damp so long.
 
Well like i said, ask 20 people.... but I know what i would do if it was mine

It would need watering at least weekly...
 
Well like i said, ask 20 people.... but I know what i would do if it was mine

It would need watering at least weekly...

So what kind of mix should I repot it in, if that is what you reccomend?
 
My fav mix for years has been

deep containters filled with:

30% Milled Sphagnum (Peat is acceptable)
25% Coir fiber
25% Perlite or APS
10% Sand
5% Charcoal
5% Chooped Live Sphagnum
 
My fav mix for years has been

deep containters filled with:

30% Milled Sphagnum (Peat is acceptable)
25% Coir fiber
25% Perlite or APS
10% Sand
5% Charcoal
5% Chooped Live Sphagnum

Would a mix of equal parts sand, peat, and small peices of charcoal work?
 
  • #10
Here's what healthy ceph roots should look like...

hg_division1.jpg

hg_division3.jpg

hg_division4.jpg


Those were all divisions from one plant... with a couple more smaller divisions not shown

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:01 PM ----------

All I can tell you is... based on my experience, its not what I would use

Av
 
  • #11
Why wouldn't you use that kind of mix?
 
  • #12
Simple, because I dont like its performance
 
  • #13
Simple, because I dont like its performance

Could you please specify what is wrong with the performance? I appreciate the help but.....are you always so.....vague?

I don't have any perlite or LFS right now, I only have peat, charcoal, sand, lava rock, and pine mulch.

I just want to reopot it before it gets any worse and is too late.
 
  • #14
I dont mean to be vague, but Ive had so many conflicts over the years about my growing methods. This is the first ceph thread Ive responded to in over a year. I'm just tired of defending them.
So my apologies but Im a little gun shy of talking about my methods, my lighting and my substrates.

Ive tried many mixes over the years... based upon that experience I have settled on the mix I stated.

Why do I recommend it.... because the plants are healthier, the grow faster, the grow bigger, the are more colorful, I have no ceph die back, etc etc etc

Cephs get 70% of their nutrient ions from their root system, so root health is extremely important with this species.

I also use trichoderma monthy...

The pictures speak for themselves IMHO

The mix you quoted can and will grow cephs, but its not what I would use....

Av
 
  • #15
I dont mean to be vague, but Ive had so many conflicts over the years about my growing methods. This is the first ceph thread Ive responded to in over a year. I'm just tired of defending them.
So my apologies but Im a little gun shy of talking about my methods, my lighting and my substrates.

Ive tried many mixes over the years... based upon that experience I have settled on the mix I stated.

Why do I recommend it.... because the plants are healthier, the grow faster, the grow bigger, the are more colorful, I have no ceph die back, etc etc etc

Cephs get 70% of their nutrient ions from their root system, so root health is extremely important with this species.

I also use trichoderma monthy...

The pictures speak for themselves IMHO

The mix you quoted can and will grow cephs, but its not what I would use....

Av

Don't worry, I can't and won't argue with your methods since, well, they obviously work. I just want to find a mix that I can make with the ingredients I have so that I won't lose my ceph.

Considering the list of ingredients I have on hand, can you reccomend the best possible mix that I could make with them?
 
  • #16
No worries Exo...

I would use the peat, sand and pine mulch...probably 1:1:1 and with a little charcoal thrown in and one part perlite if you can find any... a lot depends on how it looks when its all mixed up, trust your instincts

Also root feed the ceph after you see new growth with a weak (1/4 strength) orchid mix once a month

It should drain almost as fast as water is poured on the top, there should be very little delay.

Av
 
  • #17
No worries Exo...

I would use the peat, sand and pine mulch...probably 1:1:1 and with a little charcoal thrown in and one part perlite if you can find any... a lot depends on how it looks when its all mixed up, trust your instincts

Also root feed the ceph after you see new growth with a weak (1/4 strength) orchid mix once a month

It should drain almost as fast as water is poured on the top, there should be very little delay if any.

Av

Thank you very much, I appreciate it.

Any tips on repoting, other than not to break any roots?
 
  • #18
Until you get more experience, just try not to damage the roots... water the plant a couple hours before so they are hydrated and flexible

Don't repot dry roots

and watch our for dessication for a week or two, water loss through transpiration may exceed the ability of the roots to replace the moisture till they get settled in

Use trichoderma if you have it
 
  • #19
Until you get more experience, just try not to damage the roots... water the plant a couple hours before so they are hydrated and flexible

Don't repot dry roots

and watch our for dessication for a week or two, water loss through transpiration may exceed the ability for the roots to replace the moisture till they get settled in

Use trichoderma if you have it

Ok, I got ya.

The soil is still pretty damp, so dry roots shouldnt be a problem, but unfortunately I don't have trichoderma.

Any tips on preventing desication for those few weeks?
 
  • #20
if you notice it starting to happen, then encircle the plant with a wall of live sphag

your watering regiment should become more normal too

but really, its not as bad as most think.... you see how i treat my transplants

remove any rotten roots too btw
 
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