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Thread: S.Purpurea Questions

  1. #9
    kulamauiman's Avatar
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    with purpurea purpurea it is often hard to see that it is dormant in mild climates. especially because it does not loose its pitchers. The best indicator of dormancy is that it has stopped making new pitchers and has made a leaf scale cover over the growing point(s) . For me without a frost most years and never any snow or a hard freeze all of my Sarracenia all go dormant, just the pitchers do not die back all together. This does present some problems with having them flower the next season nicely at the appropriate times......

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    Oh, the humanity!! TheFury's Avatar
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    @kula, interesting point about the flower - My S. purp is working on another flower... it's October! I started reducing my photoperiod like three weeks ago! It's obviously confused, but very happy!

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    Natalie's Avatar
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    Do you find that they flower too early because of the mild climate? My S. purpurea put up two flowers in late winter when it started getting warm, and then it didn't make any new pitchers till July (but it still had the pitchers from the year before to photosynthesize and catch prey).

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    kulamauiman's Avatar
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    I still have things blooming right now. but for me that isn't too odd. As a whole purpurea purpurea might not even loose its pitchers in the winter normally. So i tend not to do anything to them, but the other species I am considering doing a massive hard pruning.

  5. #13
    I hate bugs. Carnivorous plants get me. jpappy789's Avatar
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    Interesting. I grabbed a relatively mature purp at Lowes "death cube" this past summer and was going to try and get it going a bit before forcing it into dormancy. I was wondering how I could best transition it from grow rack/light conditions to dormancy but maybe now I don't have to worry...
    -Josh
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    kulamauiman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpappy789 View Post
    Interesting. I grabbed a relatively mature purp at Lowes "death cube" this past summer and was going to try and get it going a bit before forcing it into dormancy. I was wondering how I could best transition it from grow rack/light conditions to dormancy but maybe now I don't have to worry...
    move um outside in the summer. Best way to sync up. Right now might be way too late. Spring might be too cool and days too short will force them dormant and wont be ready to grow when it should be growing

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    Oh, the humanity!! TheFury's Avatar
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    @jpappy, I wouldn't bother. Regardless of the particularly hardy nature of the Lowes S. purps, I believe plants from TC don't really need dormancy for the first few years out of the flask (TC experts please flame me as necessary if I'm off base...)

    But, I did transition some other plants from my grow rack to a dormant state last year. I took them out of the rack and put them in a sunny south-facing window last August, and left the window cracked to expose the pots & root systems to cold air. Temperatures were a bit too high but the plants did briefly enter a light dormancy... my Sarrs stopped producing carnivorous leaves and began sending up phyllodia and my D. filiformis formed a hibernaculum, although in both cases it seemed like a half-baked effort, again likely due to the temps. I can't tell you how successful this method was in the end, however, because I did not think to cat-proof my windowsill, resulting in an epic fail (as well as a gruesome puddle of cat puke with chewed up bits of D. filiformis and S. "Mardi Gras" leaves floating in it)

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    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    Thread hijackers, lol.

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