Growing Sarrs from seed (First Attempt!)

[PolishJeff]

Hey All,

Here is my first attempt at growing sarrs from seeds. I've been doing well with purchasing/trading seedlings and growing them into big time adults that I thought I'd give seed a try. Nothing as impressive as Fred P or Brokken's production, but I was inspired enough to give it a go!

These will be SXM18 S.x Moorei -- Wilkerson's white knight x SL61 S. leucophylla -- red stripe throat. Got a good deal from ebay a few months ago.

These went through 4.5 weeks of stratification in the fridge wrapped in damp paper towels. They were sown yesterday (2/26) and now reside in the bedroom under lamps.

I'd like to keep these as an ongoing thread and provide updates for everyone. Enjoy!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sovetskjeff/6789979276/" title="IMG_0238 by sovetsk.jeff, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6789979276_5c4e410db4_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0238"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sovetskjeff/6936095647/" title="IMG_0239 by sovetsk.jeff, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6936095647_72e403be89_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0239"></a>

 

[Fred P]

Hey Jeff,

Nice setup and thanks for the compliment. One observation; when using sphagnum for a media, I would make sure the cell is full and that it is packed in there fairly snug before you place your seeds on them. You want to have a firm surface for the roots to plunge into. Sphagnum, over time, compacts/shrinks on its own and sarrs have deep roots so the more media you can start with the better. When I start a tray of seeds like these, my cells are bulging near the top with firmed sphagnum.

 

[jimscott]

Wow, that's far more elaborate than what I do!

 

[lance]

Nice setup! My Leah Wilkerson seeds just started to germinate so hopefully yours do too. Once spring comes along, I believe that putting the remaining ungerminated seeds outside should get the rest of the stragglers to germinate .

 

[PolishJeff]

Fred - Thanks for the advice, I'll take all I can get. I have one more batch of seeds arriving in the mail any day now. I just couldn't wait to get these under the lights!


JimScott - What do you do? Have a thread we could see?

Lance - Sounds good to me! Good luck with your Leahs, maybe a trade in the future?

 

[Fred P]

Here's one pic about 30 days after sowing so the sphagnum already has had a chance to settle in but you can see what I mean about full cells.

 

[PolishJeff]

Wow, Fred. That looks like an amazing strike rate. I'm hoping at least half of mine will sprout!

I can see what you mean about full cells. The sphagnum in mine has already started to sink a little, and it's been less than a week. Not sure if this is a trade secret or faux pas, but what lighting do you have on your new seedlings? I keep the adults outside full time. I imagine the fresh growth could use a softer light?

 

[Fred P]

I start all my seeds indoors under regular 48" 40 watt shop lights and they work just fine. No trade secret.

 

[Natalie]

Some questions to all you California sarr growers - what's the advantage to growing them under lights rather than outside in the sun? Is it to prevent critters from getting into them? How to the plants get prey indoors? I'm just wondering since it seems that most of California would have an ideal climate for growing them outdoors except for the extreme low humidity in the summer.

 

[Fred P]

Some questions to all you California sarr growers - what's the advantage to growing them under lights rather than outside in the sun? Is it to prevent critters from getting into them? How to the plants get prey indoors? I'm just wondering since it seems that most of California would have an ideal climate for growing them outdoors except for the extreme low humidity in the summer.

By growing them indoors, you can control everything....photo period, water, humidity and temperature. But most of all with sarrs, you control the dormancy (or lack thereof). By skipping dormancy the first year or two, you can double and triple the size of the plant by growing under lights. Then, by bringing them outside at the right time in spring, they never miss a beat. As far as "prey", they really don't need it early on especially since I fertilize mine on a regular basis. It makes a huge difference.

 

[denverone]

Hey Fred P i was just wondering how long you keep the lights on and also once the seeds germinate and begin growing how much water do you keep in the trays or how wet do you keep the medium.

Thanks

Chad

 

[sss]

Wow fred those grew fast, I thought seedlings grew slow. Also splitting those into their own pots is gonna be a pain in the *** lol.

 

[PolishJeff]

**UPDATE**UPDATE**

We have germination! Here is the breakdown of the timeline:

Strat Dates: 1/29 - 2/26
Seeds sown: 2/26
First Germination: 3/11

What we see today:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/sovetskjeff/6993585391/" title="IMG_0340 by sovetsk.jeff, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6993585391_da33c6523a_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_0340"></a>

My seeds have come so far since January. Very proud of them

 

[punpkinface]

Congrats!

 

[lil hokie]

Aw they are so cute! Congrats on the babies!!

 

[Fred P]

Hey Fred P i was just wondering how long you keep the lights on and also once the seeds germinate and begin growing how much water do you keep in the trays or how wet do you keep the medium.

Thanks

Chad

I use an 18/6 photoperiod 12 months out of the year. Once the seedlings begin growing, I leave just enough water to cover the bottom of the tray about 1/4 inch or so.

---------- Post added at 09:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:32 PM ----------

Also splitting those into their own pots is gonna be a pain in the *** lol.

Splitting and transplanting them is not as bad as you think. I have a technique that moves it along pretty fast. You just need a little patience.

---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 PM ----------

**UPDATE**UPDATE**

We have germination! Here is the breakdown of the timeline:

Strat Dates: 1/29 - 2/26
Seeds sown: 2/26
First Germination: 3/11

My seeds have come so far since January. Very proud of them

Nice going Jeff!

 

[kulamauiman]

By growing them indoors, you can control everything....photo period, water, humidity and temperature. But most of all with sarrs, you control the dormancy (or lack thereof). By skipping dormancy the first year or two, you can double and triple the size of the plant by growing under lights. Then, by bringing them outside at the right time in spring, they never miss a beat. As far as "prey", they really don't need it early on especially since I fertilize mine on a regular basis. It makes a huge difference.

Same here in Maui. One would think we are warm, bright and sunny, but the seedlings go dormant come fall and every thing grinds to a halt. Not all temperature based, see lots of evidence based on daylength. Hit long days of summer and transition to fall everyone starts going dormant. Found I can sow in fall after seeds are collected. Grow for one year then out the next spring. Get two or so growing seasons in one years time that way. Also using a timed release fertilize placed under the soil surface I can feed them and grow them out nicely, but will typically do that after the first transplant but still keep them inside.

 

[lil hokie]

Question! What do the seedlings look like when they go dormant?

Since I will be growing my seedlings outdoors that will be one of the things I have to worry/know about.

 

[Alexis]

They just stop growing and maintain a state of suspended animation. Some pitchers will gradually go brown over the winter. They won't grow phyllodia, like some adult species.

 

[lil hokie]

They just stop growing and maintain a state of suspended animation. Some pitchers will gradually go brown over the winter. They won't grow phyllodia, like some adult species.

Thank you very much!