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Thread: Is my Cephalotus dead? Help!!!

  1. #9

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    The lights will not be an issue in the long run, just a few weeks/months for the plant to adjust to the increase in light. The increased lighting will give you smaller pitchers with much better colors or the windowsill will give you bigger pitchers with greener colors. Its really just a personal choice of how you want the pitchers to look. Lower light/colder temps for more leaves.

    Root rot is mainly caused by lack of airflow into the medium, so mixes like 50/50 peat/sand "can" be an issue. I say can because so many grow them just fine in that mix, again its airflow into the medium, so a lot of factors are working here. I've found 1-2" worms living in my peat/sand pots when repotting so I figure they are a prime reason for increased airflow.

    The most important piece of info here is to not give up on the Ceph just because it looks like its dying. These are leaf pulls I almost threw out a while back. Yes, in the 1st photo those are grains of sand.

    DSC_0059 by randallsimpson, on Flickr

    DSC_0053 by randallsimpson, on Flickr

    A photo of the light burn I was talking about, every pitcher/leaf on that plant dried out and died due to the shock of increased light. New pitchers grew out of the base of the plant in a few weeks and everything is fine. I'm now moving them over in stages to keep this from happening.

    DSC_0034 by randallsimpson, on Flickr

    Here is a Ceph growing in RUNNING water, always completetly wet. This is not the proper way to grow them and they never grew well but it goes a long ways to showing water does not equal root rot.

    Cephalotus Typical by randallsimpson, on Flickr

  2. #10
    Decumbent Fanatic Jcal's Avatar
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    It's also best to find a setup and stick with it. The more you move it around the less likely it will get a chance to settle in and thrive for you.

  3. #11
    fredg's Avatar
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    I'm now puzzled and I think it's the terminology being used. 'Airflow' through the medium, I'm interpreting as use a coarser mix. Peat / gravel / sand or peat / perlite I've found suitable, I've also used pure live sphagnum.The amount of air going through the medium in a pot standing in water I would say was negligible. The plant will root and shoot underwater and there's not a lot of airflow through that.
    Leaving the water tray bone dry for 24 hours I would also discount, it's likely to lead to problems. The tray goes dry and it's not noticed for a few days and then you have to allow another day because you have to go by when you noticed and in high summer you have a dry plant. Just keep water in the tray, if it goes dry, add water. My own plants stand in a couple of inches of water from April to December every year. Once from April to December the following year, 20 months without problems.
    The best way to avoid problems is to look. It's amazing just how much your plants' health improves if you look at them frequently., the more frequent the better it is.
    Fred

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  4. #12
    Whimgrinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredg View Post
    The best way to avoid problems is to look. It's amazing just how much your plants' health improves if you look at them frequently., the more frequent the better it is.
    Fred, you are being FAR too sensible.

  5. #13

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    Keep in mind everything I'm posting is from an indoor growers perspective and the TX heat just will not let me grow a Ceph outside in the elements. We are talking about a Ceph currently being grown inside, so unless the inside temps are really high even 2-3 days of the tray being bone dry should have minimal effect on the moisture in the pot. I have allowed many of my trays to dry out for a week to 10 days for various reasons without harming the Cephs at all. Now these are established healthy Cephs, none I thought were having issues. Even after a week of the tray being dry the medium was still moist.

    As for the airflow issue, anytime water is wicked up or poured down through the medium there is an exchange of air, thus some airflow.

    But I agree looking at them helps a lot
    Last edited by RSS; 12-03-2014 at 12:25 PM.

  6. #14
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    Sorry RSS but when water is wicked up from a water tray where is this air coming from?
    Fred

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    The surface area of the water tray will attempt to equalize with the surrounding air (oxygen, co2, ect), standing water will do this at a much slower rate than moving water but it will given enough time. The roots of a plant will remove what they need from the water in the wicked part of the medium, as new water is wicked up the newer water will mix with the older water and try to equalize again to replace some of the used up materials/gases.

    Basically the same concept of how you end up with salt buildup on the top of your medium when your only using tray watering, the salts are being wicked up and dry out on top. The same thing is happening with gases.

    This is a very basic explanation, there are entire books wrote on the subject.

  8. #16
    fredg's Avatar
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    You are talking about dissolved gasses now which is entirely different to an airflow.
    Fred

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