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Thread: Cephalotus leaf yellowing

  1. #9
    fredg's Avatar
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    2 hours sun is a lot more than some Cephalotus get. Shaded plants grow larger pitchers. ( compared to the same clone in sun)
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    I would be concerned when young leafs or the growing center dies. The leafs adapted to tc condintions will die faster than the new ones. Sunshine will speed this process a bit up.
    Root rot is a thing of a few days or maybe a week and probably not stopable. Its shows first with wilting of all leafs and pitchers of a crown.
    Top watering is probably not the cause. I do it always and they stay all summer in the rain outside. No problem there. Many others do it and nothing bad happens.
    I know somebody who drowns his Cephs from time to time in a tank. His Cephs had no problem with any kind of rot. Hes got maybe the oldest Ceph in Germany.
    Here in the second post you might observe his setup and his magnificent Ceph. He uses fertilizer too. scroll a bit down
    Boron-maybe a solution for problems like crownrot? | International Carnivorous Plant Society
    Last edited by axel; 03-18-2016 at 10:34 AM.

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    fredg's Avatar
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    The growing centres are ok so stop messing the plant around. Constantly changing the conditions ( moving it) can upset the plants. Try leaving it in the same spot and water consistently.
    I've no idea about root rot, it's NOT caused by overwatering as I don't believe you can with a Cephalotus. I've been standing the pots in water for 33 years and never had any. When I say that they're tolerant I mean that they'll suffer being kept drier.
    Fred

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    Quote Originally Posted by fredg View Post
    2 hours sun is a lot more than some Cephalotus get. Shaded plants grow larger pitchers. ( compared to the same clone in sun)
    Yeah I agree I've heard of people who keep it under full shade during summer times. Some even let the pitchers grow out in shade and gradually move to sun to color the pitchers.

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    Thanks all. I'm going to chalk this up to changing conditions (seasonal and caused by me) combined with me overreacting. This is my first ceph and I think I've read to many posts about what can go wrong. Thank you all for your advice, questions, and guidance.

    The mix was was what NE sent with it. It looked like 50/50 sand and peat, and included extra sand for a top dressing, which I used.

    Looking at it again with less crazed eyes, I can see new growth starting at the growth point. I'll be going back to the regimen that worked for the first two months I had the thing.

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    Out of curiosity, what kind of medium are you using? I've found that seating my cephalotus on the peak of its own little hill of peaty sand has really helped with the buffering. It seems like the hill allows for better air flow around the roots, so I can let it get real wet without worrying about rot

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    50/50 sand/peat, with a top dressing of pure sand. When planting I tried hilling too, but the plants were so small I couldn't make it happen without risking damage, or being unsure the roots were actually in soil!

    Today there are some more yellow leaves on the different plants, but pitchers are still healthy, and there isn't any wilting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FLTropical View Post
    50/50 sand/peat, with a top dressing of pure sand. When planting I tried hilling too, but the plants were so small I couldn't make it happen without risking damage, or being unsure the roots were actually in soil!

    Today there are some more yellow leaves on the different plants, but pitchers are still healthy, and there isn't any wilting.
    If your still getting new growth then it's just transitioning and you will loose some leaves/pitchers during the process. It's happened to me as well but after those few eventually died no more so far. I would worry when it's more then 50% of the plant and no new growth at all.

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