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Thread: Preventative for sarr rhizome rot?

  1. #9
    I am a CPaholic... DJ57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikefallen13 View Post
    Okay, so I started to do a little digging and the media is indeed very broken down and smells horrible! I'm going to begin the repotting process tomorrow, this time using perlite instead of sand because I think it will provide a more slightly more airy mix compared to the peat/sand mix I was using before. I was able to find some nice 7" semi-decorative pots for $1 a piece at a local store which should work great for the plants.

    I'm now pretty sure the main reason the media broke down and caused rot issues has to do with the depth of the bog. I honestly didn't even consider it at first but after doing more reading about bog gardens it seems it generally recommended the bog should be at least 2' deep with drainage a few inches below the surface to help keep the top layer of media most but not wet. My bog is 14" at its deepest due to a layer of rocks I encountered when digging with only a few drain holes at the front to prevent flooding, so it's been holding a ton of water through the whole media and the peat decomposed more quickly than it normally would. I guess I should have done more reading when I set up the thing in the first place! My bad.

    Honestly though, I will actually feel better when the plants are in pots that I can move inside if the weather gets bad this winter and it will make repotting/dividing much easier going forward. Thanks for the tips guys! Hopefully the plants will do better now.
    You are now on the right path, keep up the research. The way a bog is built makes a big difference in how fast soil breakdown occurs. I got about 4-5 years out of my first bog when soil breakdown occurred. My bog is 18" to 24" inches deep but did hold too much water at the bottom during the rainy season. When I re-soiled it last year I added more drainage, but now have to water it more often...trade offs. A bog that constantly circulates water through it instead of holding it in would be ideal if I had the means/know-how to create one. Yes, being able to move pots around is one major advantage over a bog, among other things such as easier to take good photos of individual plants.
    Last edited by DJ57; 06-23-2016 at 12:02 AM.

  2. #10
    Steve Booth's Avatar
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    The 2' deep isn't a necessity although the deeper it is the better for water retention, but bad for going anaerobic, producing CO2 and displacing the oxygen in the bog at root level. If you can build in a drain system (even as simple as a cork in the liner) that gives you the options of varying the water levels and preventing the problems before they start.
    Cheers
    Steve

  3. #11
    Mr. veitchii mikefallen13's Avatar
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    Due to nasty weather, I'm going to have to wait one more day before I start digging but it's given me a little more time to think about what I'm going to do once the plants are out. As it seems the pond liner I used is still in good shape and it would be shame to throw it out, I'm thinking I will still use the hole for the plants but instead of being filled with peat, I'll fill the bottom with a couple inches of water and sit the pots in it. I also have a ton of extra aquarium powerheads and pumps so I'll rig something up to help circulate water. Maybe I can finally put my Drosera regia outside too, as it seemed to readily overheat with no moving water around its roots.

    I'll get some pics of the project when it's finished. Thanks again for the advice guys!
    Good Growing!
    -Mike Fallen

    My Growlist/wishlist: http://highlandtropicals.blogspot.co...-growlist.html

  4. #12
    I am a CPaholic... DJ57's Avatar
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    Yeah, I considered having a separate reservoir of water with a pump to circulate water around large pots set in the “bog” when I redid it last year, sort of like I did with the Darlingtonia setup I had in the pond that worked well until the raccoons discovered it. Maybe have sphagnum moss growing on top of the pots, making it look more natural (can’t tell the plants are in pots). I still might do something like that when this bog reaches the end of its life.

    Would love to see pics of your setup as you build it, can never stop learning from other people’s ideas/experiences.

    I successfully grew a regia outside planted in the bog for a couple years, but killed it when I decided to move it to another location in the bog (dang those things have long roots!). The mass of the bog kept it from overheating in summer and roots from freezing in our PNW winters. I can grow D. capensis outside year round in the bog as well for the same reasons. They die back in winter but sprout back from the roots in spring as the regia did.

  5. #13
    Mr. veitchii mikefallen13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ57 View Post
    Yeah, I considered having a separate reservoir of water with a pump to circulate water around large pots set in the “bog” when I redid it last year, sort of like I did with the Darlingtonia setup I had in the pond that worked well until the raccoons discovered it. Maybe have sphagnum moss growing on top of the pots, making it look more natural (can’t tell the plants are in pots). I still might do something like that when this bog reaches the end of its life.

    Would love to see pics of your setup as you build it, can never stop learning from other people’s ideas/experiences.

    I successfully grew a regia outside planted in the bog for a couple years, but killed it when I decided to move it to another location in the bog (dang those things have long roots!). The mass of the bog kept it from overheating in summer and roots from freezing in our PNW winters. I can grow D. capensis outside year round in the bog as well for the same reasons. They die back in winter but sprout back from the roots in spring as the regia did.
    I was actually thinking about what I could do to hide the pots. I'm going to see if I can find any more live sphagnum but I also remembered a plant called parrot's feather ( Plants for Ponds & Water Gardens: Parrot's Feather Floating Pond Plant ) that I had in a pond a while back that would also work. It scrambles across shallow water and looks really nice, I'm pretty sure my local aquarium store has it so I'll give it a try as well.

    I'm still not 100% sure why my regia had so much trouble outside, but I did have it in a black plastic pot which is why I'm thinking overheating was the cause. It's now in a unglazed terra cotta pot with a live sphagnum top dressing which should help with that issue, especially with circulating water.

    Luckily, since I moved to PA I haven't had any raccoon issues, but they were a huge PITA when I lived in NC. I still remember when they'd rip my CP's and orchids out of their pots, I definitely don't miss them!

    I'll be sure to get some pics!
    Good Growing!
    -Mike Fallen

    My Growlist/wishlist: http://highlandtropicals.blogspot.co...-growlist.html

  6. #14
    Never Knows Best gill_za's Avatar
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    I am not sure if someone mentioned or not, but consider inoculating the soil with a mix of Trichoderma Atroviride from AmPac Biotech and Trichoderma + other Beneficial bacteria found in Great White - Premium Mycorrhizae product. Mix both into water and water with the mix ones every few weeks.

  7. #15
    I am a CPaholic... DJ57's Avatar
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    Mikefallen13: Ah, Parrots Feather is nice. I have lots of it growing in a couple water barrels and the pond, stuff will grow almost anywhere with a little water and all you need to start with is one piece and it quickly spreads and takes over. It does help with water quality and aeration in the pond. I am not sure but it may root into the top soil of the pots as the moisture may cause the strands to send out roots to dig in, which may cause issues but not sure. Their roots can get quite extensive floating in water but don't know how they act in wet soil. They do look really nice in water features and I like them.

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