To add to Mike Kings suggestions regarding possible problems.
This is specific to S. minor.
S. minor can be a rather hard case for Sarracenia in culture.
In SF *CA 5 hours of dirrect sun isn't too harsh. *Though in habitat S. minor can often be found in a somewhat dappled light under Pine Trees or Wax Mrytle's, it is just as commonly found in full sun at a farther south location with more instense sunlight than found naturally at your location. *Still it will tolerate less light with this it will not be as colorful or compact with pitcher features. *It will thrive.
I would think your humidity would be fine in SF as a coastal city. *S. minor grows in locations that often drop to 45% humidity during the day while in active growth with daytime temps in the 90's F. More important than posted humidity is the dewpoint temp with regards to air temp. *
S. minor in general needs a well drained medium and can be grown drier than many other Sarracenia. *It is subject to fungal attack in culture due to wet roots. *Many growers add more silica sand to the S,. minor medium than acidic peat.
Even if you are finding good healthy roots (white tips or white) when re-potting if the rhizome is soft & smushy most likely the rhizome has rotted off. *This is a common problem and related to many different root rot, black rot problems. *They can be traced back to a culture that is often too humid, and water logged conditions combined with other things such as lack of air movement, or too dim light.
A general rule is not to keep S. minor in a constant standing tray of water. *Allow for some drying between watering.
A *browning of new leaves on top that have yet to open can be a sign of poor water quality, hard water containing too much sodium or a high alkaline content. *Some S. minor are very sensetive to hard water while others such as the form found in the Okee Swamp can tolerate somewhat more alkaline / hard water.
Also browning of the upper portions of newer leaves can be a sign of fertilizer application that results in burn, much related to use of alkaline water. *
I once had many S. minor burn off at the tops & couldn't figure out why. *At night a sprinkler was coming on and splashing hard brackish well water on the S. minor it was burning the plants, even though the potting medium was ok.
For plants that have diseased leaves I find it best to quickly remove the leave as so not to allow spreading of the disease throughout the plant. *Most root rots with Sarracenia appear at the base (lower portion) of the leaf where it connects with the rhizome on the crown. *The upper portion of the leaf (pitcher) will still look green.
While a burned leaf doesn't indicate a disease it can quickly allow entry for pest/disease into the plant.
Older leaves normally die off from the top and this isn't burn, but new pitchers browning before opening isn't normal.
Fianlly plants grown in containers build up mineral content even with better water compared to plants in habitat due to the container not being able to leech out chemicals/minerals. *So more frequent transplant is required.
S. minor is somewhat of more difficult Sarracenia to grow compared to others, including any hybrids.
I have found its culture mimics many S. rubra types.