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Cephalotus not growing

  • #21
funny thing it looks like pitchers that just shot up from the middle of the plant they look like pitchers .will post pictures if i do.
 
  • #22
Hi all:

Just remember, that cephalotus are not VFT's. They grow very slowly, but surely if you keep them under high humidity, not waterlogged conditions and adecuate lighting.

Gus
 
  • #23
Gus,

Would high humidity risk grey mould on the leafs? would it upkeep be less if we drop humidity but also reduce the risk of mould?
 
  • #24
20040302-CP-Cephalotus-3-clone%20planter.jpg

<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>My tri-clone planter</span>

A few things i want to comment on:
* I don't recommend spraying your plants with water, as was recommended.  An excellent ceph grower i know said he avoids getting the plants wet, or they rot
* Cephs can be very slow and always erratic growers.  I bought one more than two years ago, and it remained less than quarter-sized (the entire plant) for a long while.  It recently suddenly exploded in size.  It's the one in the end of the planter (noticeably bigger than a quarter)
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* Cephs seem to vary from plant to plant on what kind of leaves they produce.  I hadn't seen a 'normal' leaf until i bought the german giant clone on the other end of the planter... my first plant never produced anything but pitchers.  Since then, it has produced leaves.  It seems to be somewhat seasonal, but not entirely.
* Cephs like a very open soil if you can keep them damp.  The Hummer's Giant plant in the middle was even bigger when i got it, a truly magnificent plant

20031029-CP-Cephalotus%20'Hummer's%20Giant'-side%202.jpg


Another pic (click)
http://necps.org/images....top.jpg

It was planted in live sphagnum.  Then, i found out the hard way that live sphagnum dries out very fast when such a large plant is growing in it...

When i moved my original plant into the planter with a looser soil is when it really took off.

* These grow under ordinary fluorescent grow lights

*  The size of the planter lets me keep it damp without it drying out too much between waterings- don't keep it wet.  This planter has a built-in drainage tray (I water from the top- carefully).

* It seems to be beneficial to occasionally carefully pull off all the completely dead and dried up leaves and traps (those that come off easily), to make room for new ones.  BE CAREFUL

* Finally, humidity is generally a good thing, but be careful or you'll rot the plant.  As long as there is some air movement, you probably can't go wrong, but if you see signs of rot, decrease it immediately.

* I almost never feed my plants.  Maybe they'd grow faster if i did.  I believe that the aforementioned grower uses a bit of fertilizer (i'll have to verify that), but i don't think i want to risk it.
 
  • #25
I have a cephalotus that I received a little over a month ago, and within that time I've transplanted it *2* times.

I did this because I thought my first mix of 45% peat, 45% sand & 10% perlite was not good enough for it.

It was growing non carnivorous leaves, but very slowly. I also remembered that the sphagnum moss around it's roots was not removed and I find that it dries up quite quickly, so I repotted it.

It's now in a nice airy mix of 85% washed perlite & 15% peat, and I also removed the sphagnum from its roots before planting.

I use a self watering pot, this pot keeps the soil moist, not wet, with no effort at all. The pot receives strong daylight only, not sunlight or flourescent lights, and there is a plastic [ modified softdrink bottle ] over the plant for high humidity.

My cephalotus is growing quite fast now, it's non carnivorous leaf production went through the roof and the plant is an emerald green in color. The leaves are also quite fleshy and a few new crowns are rising.

No new pitchers yet, I don't expect any after such a short time. It also dropped many of its existing pitchers due to my transplanting of it.

I strongly believe that cephs survive repotting better in colder months, this is the month when I transplanted it twice. And they do not like their pots being moved around much.
 
  • #27
I have had my ceph for two years now, it grew pretty slow for the first six months but then took off. I would say its growing faster then I thought it would. My growing conditions are 50% peat 50% perlite, My plant is in a terrarium with a glass cover and a 15watt grow light flo.bulb. I only water it by misting from a spray bottle(at night before the lights go off), it never sits in standing water. I believe mine is growing well is because night time temps go down into the high 40's to low 50's every night before rising during the day, it seems to like that. hope this helps, Jack
 
  • #28
Rocklizard:

High humidity does not exclude good aeration. Besides, cephs would grow mould around them when their roots are stressed due to overwatering.

Gus
 
  • #29
Gus:

Is this aeration in the soil or aeration in the air (u know what I mean). If it's the latter, then that would work against humidity?

I think I should grow cephs again. Had a very nice pot 10 years ago.
 
  • #30
I grow mine in my highland Nepenthes chamber which gets auto misted once a day. It seems to enjoy it, but is still a tiny German Giant TC plant, so all it does is produce more pitchers on its two crowns. No growth spurts as of yet, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

P.S. D muscipula, if you could PM me the information for where you got the Hummer's Giant, and for how much, that would be great! Thanks!
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  • #31
Ok my ceph really started growing but today it was in the 90's here and its in my room which is not air conditioned and the thermometer said it was a 100 in my room today . which i think is a little hot for a ceph. Should i put it with my cobra lilys on my kitchen window wher its airconditioned and the location probably keeps at about 80 during the day. But there is really strong sun and my ceph is growing under a floresence light. what should i do
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  • #32
Hi Rocklizard:

When i mentioned the word aeration, i meant good air flow. Dont' forget that the humidity does not need to be 100%, with a good 70-80% would do.


Gus
 
  • #33
That's a cephalotus? Looks like any ordinary plant to me (Of course its a cephalotus, but without the carnivorous leaves, that's all) Hmmm, its because I've not seen a ceph with so many normal leaves and no carnivorous ones before...well I gues that's just me, maybe HellzDungeon's right. Well that's my best bet anyways...read the book (I don't have one meself but would like to get one!
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  • #34
I've noticed that as of late a lot of people say that once their cephs are WARM, they start growing well again. This is contrary to what I've always read about them enjoying intermediate/highland temperatures... Has anyone else noticed this?

~LM
 
  • #35
I have noticed that, by those different opinions in growing temps my guess is that cephs survive repotting better in cooler temps, and not in warmer temps when they are growing. They do grow in cool conditions, but grow better in warmer conditions so long as their roots stay cool.
 
  • #36
Perssonnally, I think you should move your ceph to the windowsill.I grow mine on a east-facing windowsill with a plastic bottle over it.I NEVER let the soil dry out. My ceph is happy at the moment(its been in my care for about 2-3 months, since then it has produced about 5 new pitchers) I use a plastic bottle for humidity, on a cloudy day, I spray the inside of the bottle with deionised water. I have done this since the day I got it.
 
  • #37
does anyone else grow theres on a windowsill ? I think its a good idea to move it.
 
  • #38
well i moved it to a window sill and it got a small pitcher so far.
 
  • #39
I am growing mine on my windowsill. I've only had it about 5 days or so. I had it in my low chamber but have been told to let it cool at night. The leaves have turned yellow overnight, well most but not all and 2 out of 3 pitchers. On the other hand 2 of the pitchers have started to turn red.

Joe
 
  • #40
Hi all:

I was reading this thread again and i found out that some of you are getting cephs from different sources. I would like to mention the fact that when a ceph comes in sphagnum moss and it has been previously uprooted, some of the plant will die down when it is repotted (that's the nature of cephs). There is nothing you and I can do to stop that. However, if the plant comes with its original soil, then the chances are that it'll do fine and no leaves will die down right away after repotting.

In Southwestern australia, where the cephs are naturally found, it rains occasionally and the plants get sprinkled everytime. The problem arises, when there is no aeration; thus,  mildew or mold grows (in cultivation).


Gus
 
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