What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Tropical sarracenia o.o

Hello everyone!
Got another question to test your lights. ^_^

A nursery sellsman told me that Sarracenia Dana's Delight was a tropical, so it doesn't need dormancy...can this be true? I thought all Sarracenias required a dormant period in winter...what gives?
 
Yes, u r correct, Sszvein.

All Sarracenia hyrbrid and species need winter dormancy.
 
'Dana's Delight' was bred in Hawaii, and requires a minimal dormancy period. We cut back on water when the weather starts to cool off here in south Florida, usually around the end of November to early December, and they're producing phyllodia by late December. They come out of dormancy for us in late February.

Trent
 
So you're saying it's a "I'm not growing" dormancy, rather than a "my leaves die and I sleep beneath the earth" dormancy?
 
Sarracenia grow in temperate climates, and they go dormant in their natural habitat. The commonly accepted belief is that all Sarracenia need dormancy. However, dormancy is relatively strong in some plants, and relatively weak in others. It is true that many plants that go dormant in a temperate climate cannot grow in a tropical climate. However, some plants can, although they may not be as vigorous.

S. purpurea may need dormancy because it goes through very cold winters in its natural habitat. However, most Sarracenia grow further south, in Florida, where winters are mild, so dormancy may be weaker in these species. In fact, some Sarracenia species are able to grow in a tropical climate. In addition, hybrids can handle a wider range of temperatures than their parents.

Kim Magnusen of Tristan’s Carnivorous Plants hybridized Dana’s Delight. He lives in Hawaii, which has a tropical climate, and keeps his Sarracenia outdoors throughout the year. I happened to visit his nursery and saw his plants. They were healthy, and many had pitchers three feet high. He has a few comments about dormancy on his website at http://www.tristanscps.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabindex=3&tabid=4. I believe it has been a few years since he updated this page of his website, and he has now been in Hawaii more like 5-6 years rather than 3 years.

Dana’s Delight is not native to the tropics, so it is not a tropical Sarracenia per se. I believe it is Willisii x leucophylla. So more accurately, it is a hybrid that is able to grow in a tropical climate. And a nice one at that!
 
Ahhhh, very enlightening!
Thank you!
 
ok, this thread caught my attention. can someone clarify for me? do ALL s. x's not require dormancy? I have a bunch, and that would put a kink in my plans for the winter....
 
[b said:
Quote[/b] (mcrwt644 @ Sep. 16 2004,8:23)]ok, this thread caught my attention.  can someone clarify for me?  do ALL s. x's not require dormancy?  I have a bunch, and that would put a kink in my plans for the winter....
they all DO
 
Even if a pitcher plant doesn't REQUIRE as much dormancy, it won't hurt to give it. As long as conditions are kept a bit drier, leucos (seemingly the most touchy) can stay dormant for a long time.
 
  • #10
Hmmmm, not so sure about the bit drier part.  My Sarracenia overwintered with their pot rims underwater the whole winter, all true species and hybrids alike, and  grew like mad the following spring in record time.  I think many of the generalized information is just that: too general.  There is always room to push the limits as to what is and is not possible.

Whenever I try to keep the plants more dry, I always slip up, forget and lose a couple over the winter.  Last winter, there were 0 losses.  I'd like to see more experiments in this direction based on my success.  It's a heck of a lot easire not having to monitor the moisture level constantly, and there is no danger of accidental drying off, and rewetting which is sure to rot the rhizome. Also mold can't establish underwater.  Something to consider.

My friend in Brazil grows Sarracenia without true dormancy, year after year.  They slow in growth in the short days of winter and produce smaller leaves or phyllodia but return to full typical growth as the day length increases.
 
  • #11
I wouldnt reccomend the drying out. Just dont let the pots sit in water too long cause fungus might grow. If you water with water with fungicide in it, it should be fine
 
  • #12
I wasn't suggesting drying the plants out.  I may have given the wrong impression...

I simply meant that you didn't need to keep them religiously wet. I see how my wording (inaccurate) was confusing.
 
  • #13
We have successfully grown Sarracenia here in south Florida, a sub-tropical climate, for many years. We let them dry out. Not bone dry, mind you, but if they are maintained too wet they will not take a dormancy. Overall, the more northern species are the trickiest for us-alabamensis and oreophila. Leucos are easier than flavas. For us down here, flava is prone to rot/fungus problems in late summer. Fungicide is a necessity. Also, the dormancy seems to be induced by a combination of factors-the days getting shorter combined with dryer conditions and the occasional cold front with temps down into the forties F.

Trent
 
Back
Top