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Thread: Sarracenia

  1. #9
    7santiago's Avatar
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    i heared tea stains cloths but not leaves [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_n_32.gif[/img] , no im just kiddin its just im curious on how acidity afects color, ive heard the same with hycaths.
    Mens Et Manus

  2. #10

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    Fill a bottle with good water, drop the tea bags in, and let it sit for a day, and then water with it. Definitely not hard. You may increase the bags to 6 if you need to. It will give a slightly higher concentration of the tannins in the water. Only BLACK tea.
    I am using it now, before the last growth comes up to see if I get any reddening, no matter how slight. And Mr. Lane, your "red lip" flava is a bright, bright red.
    45 yrs. growin\'
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    Smile

    Hi,
    I got some black tea today, i am going to start out using two bags per gallon of water because the plants are already sitting in water and should delute in the soil nicely. It's close to the end of the seasond so we will see how it goes. I will start watering 09/02/05 Once a week. I have some that are part red and some that have no red at all, that are red tubes.
    will see.
    Regards [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_m_32.gif[/img]
    GROWLIST If you can read this thank a TEACHER , If you can read this in ENGLISH thank a VETERAN.

  4. #12

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    Been watering with tannic tea for a week now, and the s. flava var. rubricorpora'a and the atropurps are showing signs of red coloration. At least 3/4's of my "rubes", and none of my atro's had any red in them, but the new growth is starting to turn red. Another 2 weeks of tannic tea should bring them out. We will see.
    45 yrs. growin\'
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  5. #13
    Firerock's Avatar
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    Arrow

    Hi,
    That's great how often are you watering, once a week, every other day what.? I was going to water once a week but if sooner is better then.?

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  6. #14

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    FR, I water everyday. My plants grow in large tubs (rubbermaid dishpans, undrained). I fill them to the top every morning, and let evaporation take the water level down. They are in a constant rhizome bath of tannic tea. The peat is kept so wet, it is muck, but the plants love it. There is no compaction with the peat the way I keep them watered, and they do VERY well.
    45 yrs. growin\'
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  7. #15
    Firerock's Avatar
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    Arrow

    I have been using the black tea formula for about 3 weeks,so far i have notice a significant increase in the red production of the S.rubricorpora and the S.atropurpurea.The ones that are still all green have not responded, i don't know mabe because it near the end of the season. I will try again next season to see what happends. For those who want to try Robs tannic tea formula here is his revised recipe.



    To get a revised tannic tea recipe. In addition to pH related
    nutrient deficiencies, color can be lost due to pitcher age or the
    season (most often in S.flava var. cuprea, S.flava var. rugellii).
    Another factor can be iron deficiency. While the peat tea tends to
    correct this, you can take a lower phosphorous fertilizer that has
    micronutrients and apply a foliar feed (spray) as the pitchers come
    up and expand/mature, maybe every two weeks. Use distilled water to
    mix the fertilizer and dilute it to 1/4 normal strength for "house
    plants". E.G.: if you use a 20-10-20, the normal dilution is 1/4
    teaspoon in one gallon of distilled or reverse osmosis treated.
    water. Of course, sunlight is critical for proper pigment and many
    types will have weak color if grown in weak light, under plastic or
    under glass. I hope this helps. It's so late in the season, you may
    not see any improvement until next spring.


    This recipe is slightly modified from the original article appearing
    in the Carnivorous Plant Newsletter.
    1.In a large, stainless steel container add 2 gallons pure water
    (distilled, reverse-osmosis,etc.), 3/4 gallon new, unleached peat
    moss-tamped slightly,and a ball of long-fiber sphagnum (dead,dry)
    about the size of a grapefruit-compressed slightly. You can also
    substitute/add many acidic humus sources with the sphagnum, including
    leaf humus(partially decayed) from pine, oak, hemlock (Tsuga) and
    mixed forests.
    These will tend to float; stir them down with a stick, I use bamboo,
    until the ingredients are saturated.
    2.Add one more gallon of pure water.Stir.
    3.Bring this mixture to a high temperature. There are many soil
    chemists who prefer to keep the temperature at 160-170F, due to the
    perishable nature of some soil enzymes, but I bring the mixture to a
    low simmer for 20-30 minutes to nearly sterilize the concentrate.
    This mix will require occasional stirring to prevent boil over and is
    best done on a camp stove outside!
    4.After 30 minutes, remove from heat and wait about 5 minutes, for
    some settling and cooling.
    5.This is the tricky part; be careful as the hot concentrate is not
    easy to handle. You may wish to cover the liquid and let it cool
    before straining. I'm familiar with handling it and prefer to strain
    it hot into containers so it will keep better (about 2-3 weeks in a
    covered milk jug.)
    Stretch a nylon stocking over a clean, large funnel or galvanized
    watering can, leaving some slack for the solids. Secure this if
    needed so it won't slip. Slowly pour the concentrate to ONE SIDE of
    the stocking to strain it. If you pour too quickly, the solids will
    plug the nylon and cap the receptacle, spilling the brew over the
    top! You can use the stirring stick to hold back the larger chunks
    while pouring. Avoid hand contact as this will add bacteria, possibly
    burn you (if hot) and decrease the storage life of the concentrate.
    With experience, this filtering will get easier as you adapt your
    technique to your equipment.
    6.Once cool, add about 1 1/2 cups of this concentrate to a gallon of
    pure water and aerate the diluted "peat tea" by vigorously shaking in
    a partially filled jug. For those of you with test equipment, I
    standardize this tea by adding either concentrate or water to achieve
    a pH of 4.5-5.4 and a conductivity of about 18-22 microsiemens. The
    above dilution ratio should get you close enough for most
    applications, so exact meter readings aren't usually needed. The
    solution should be dark tea colored and can be used to drench the
    soil of the plants you wish to treat. Store the concentrate in clean,
    covered plastic milk jugs. Use diluted=ready to use tea within a
    couple days, or it will start to grow microbes (mostly harmless water
    molds.) I do not recommend using the concentrate without dilution.
    I apply this once every month or so. Be sure to leach the soil
    between applications or evaporation can concentrate further the
    chemicals in the soil. I haven't tested this stuff enough on Dionaea,
    but since flytraps like to be repotted every year in fresh peat, I
    believe they would benefit from the tea, which can lower the pH in
    older media. Pinguicula planifolia does benefit from this tea, as do
    most Nepenthes.
    This recipe makes about 1 1/2 -2 gallons of concentrate, which is a
    lot for most people; you can divide the recipe in half or quarters,
    as needed.
    Many plants can take, may benefit from a stronger solution, but I
    wouldn't use over 3 cups concentrate per gallon of water unless you
    have experimented and found it safe for your application.
    I hope some will find this information useful.After the article was
    published, I received several letters and phone calls from CP growers
    who had "problem plants" perk up a few weeks after using this tea,
    most likely due to pH improvement. Some created their own recipes and
    techniques. One grower uses "blackwater" which is naturally formed
    tannic water found in some wetlands. The basic technique is
    well-documented with successes, but if your plants are growing fine,
    I wouldn't bother; don't fix what ain't broken! Sincerely, Rob
    Sacilotto/Botanique.


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  8. #16
    gardenofeden's Avatar
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    don't forget red tubes need FULL sun for maximum colour, and repotting will often set them back a year, producing veined pitchers only...
    Stephen
    Sarracenia rosea?...don't be ridiculous!

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