What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

How to properly use a systemic insecticide on VFTs?

joossa

Aklys
Alright so the aphids are back and they’re not alone. The ants and aphids are taking full advantage of their symbiotic relationship on my VFTs. I have tried spraying them off, drowning them; I even moved the fortress away from the ant trial it was neighboring, but no luck! New traps are now growing slightly deformed, and I worry that it may get worse.
So I have decided to use an insecticide to kill the little buggers and to keep them away… permanently.
My questions:
-What specific product would you recommend? I know several of you have mentioned Ortho, but what is the specific product I should use? Or can I simply use anything that is designated for aphid control?
-How should I use/apply it? Can I follow the directions on the product’s label or will I need to dilute it, etc.? Does it come in a solid or liquid form?

I appreciate the help!
 
Good question.

This I would like to know too.

And I would also add; What is a good product for dealing with fungus and mold that will not damage CP's and their seeds when sowing?
07confused.gif
 
Orthene seems to work, but, I used a bad-smelling powder that I bought off of eBay for $4.50 and it killed all my pests!
 
Ummm, you should be wearing a dust mask or respirator when working with these chemicals...

Most pesticides come in many forms:

granulated - mix into the soil
wettable product (WP) - a powder that you mix with a liquid (or directly into the soil). These are usually not water soluble and just form a slurry with water - you have to constantly mix it or add an emulsifier (soap or oil based - not good for CPs). These leave the powder when dried.
liquid concentrate/water soluble powder - add water or whatever to dilute to working concentrations - spray or drench - usually does not leave much of a residue.
ready-to-use - can be a powder but usually liquid pre-diluted to working concentrations in a pump spray bottle or aerosol can

Use according to directions. Using in lower than recommended concentrations or frequency could result in insects resistant to the pesticide.
 
If you decide to use Orthene, put it in the truck of your car or the bed of your truck which ever you have... Man that stuff stinks and your neighbors, well lets just say they will know your using it.
 
Great! I went to Lowe’s after work today and saw a 1-pint liquid Ortho Systemic Insecticide and a container of Ortho Orothene powder for fire ants. I didn’t buy anything because I wanted to see more responses from this topic tonight and read some old topics. Seems like I’ll pick up the ready-to-use liquid systemic insecticide tomorrow.

My main concern was that the recommended dose on the label would be too much for a CP to handle, guess I was wrong. Thanks for the responses! I really appreciate it!
 
Test it on one plant first and wait a couple of days to see how it reacts. They don't list what's in the inactive ingredients which could be anything and is what usually causes the trouble. The propellents in aerosol cans are suspect too.
 
I know that some people will disagree with me, but I use 3 in 1 Garden Safe. Never had any problems.
 
Great! I went to Lowe’s after work today and saw a 1-pint liquid Ortho Systemic Insecticide and a container of Ortho Orothene powder for fire ants. I didn’t buy anything because I wanted to see more responses from this topic tonight and read some old topics. Seems like I’ll pick up the ready-to-use liquid systemic insecticide tomorrow.
When needed, I use the Ortho Systemic. Another respected grower uses the Orthene (but I don't know which one). Always use at the recommended dosage (or do not use at all). Using at lower than recommended dilution can create pesticide-resistant bugs (same principle w/ fungicides). I would only use chemicals that experienced growers have recommended - many have lost good plants due to chemical issues.
 
  • #10
I know that some people will disagree with me, but I use 3 in 1 Garden Safe. Never had any problems.

Clint uses that one (Schultz). I've used it on my Sarracenia and VFTs without a problem. It's neem oil based so it is not a systemic pesticide. I won't use it on my Drosera unless they were in bad shape. Sprays in general aren't good for Drosera, oil based ones particularly so.

I've used Bayer Advanced Dual-Action Rose and Flower insecticide on my Sarracenia (mealybugs). It has imidacloprid (Merit/Provado) and a pyrethroid insecticide. The Merit is systemic and the pyrethroid is a contact insecticide. On the first application I got some discoloring around the edges of the hoods and on the pitcher body of older leaves (ones that have stopped coloring). All the other leaves (shoots included) were unaffected. No reaction on the second treatment. I sprayed the crown only of one of my Drosera filiformis (aphids) with no ill effects - the systemic should take care of the aphids.
 
  • #11
Update - I used the Bayer Advanced on one of my typical VFTs three days ago and still no noticable ill effects. I found a mealybug on my 'Cupped Trap' (killed with alcohol). I'll spray the rest of my VFTs tomorrow AM.
 
  • #12
It smells really, really good too.

The only thing that Schultz didn't work on was, ironically, a harmless but unsightly mold that was growing on a clay pot. I had to use Darcan or something sounding like that to clear that up. It's so thick, like gravy, that the spray bottle doesn't mist it, though. I had to water it down by 50% to use it in the manner that I wanted and it worked pretty good, but now the pot is slimy from the fungicide.
 
  • #13
Ive used the Bayer for a couple years on vft, sarracenia, cephs and a few drosera, the only damage seemed to be to a cape alba, and it seemed like it burnt it a little... but oddly didn't bother a typical which was sitting next to it. But in both cases they only received some "overspray" so I am not sure about their exact reaction to it.

If possible I would recommend waiting on outside plants if they are in bloom. It'll kill bees and they are having enough of a hard time currently

Av
 
  • #14
Both acephate and imidacloprid (Orhthene and Merit respectively) contain warnings on bee kill off. Acephate is actually a suspect in the massive bee die off that's been going on.
 
  • #15
At Lowe's I purchased a 24oz spray bottle of «SAFER» brand 3-in-1 Garden Spray insecticide & fungicide.

http://www.saferbrand.com/instructions/3in1gardenspray.asp

I mainly want it to prevent molds and fungus while trying to germinate seeds.

It's considered "organic", if that means anything anymore......

Active ingredients listed are:
  • Potassium salts of Fatty Acids - 0.75%
  • Sulfur - 0.40%
Is this safe to use with CP seeds/seedlings and on their soil? Is it safe to use on adult CP's??

Thanks,
 
  • #16
  • #17
I finally got the Ortho Systemic Insecticide today. I spent the last couple days trying other methods to get rid of the aphids and ants, but they didn’t work. I was hesitant in getting the insecticide mainly because I didn’t have any experience with it and wanted to prevent possible damage to the plants due to improper application.

After getting home I got a mild case of OCD. LOL. I must have read the label and attached booklet about forty times before taking action; maybe it was due to my nervousness. The booklet said to dilute 2.5 tablespoons of the insecticide in one gallon of water for use against aphids. I did as directed in my garage; using one of my RO gallons and one of those small measuring cups that comes with cough medicine to prepare the solution. Then I sprayed one of my VFT’s making sure to cover all the foliage with the liquid. It initially was sort of foamy, then it had the consistency (or appearance) of water. The ants died on contact, and some of the aphids stayed on the developing traps (this was were they were mostly concentrated)(also I should note that they were too small to tell whether they died or not…). I let the plant sit in my garage for about half an hour and I then took it outside, where it was not receiving direct sunlight (it was already sundown around 6:45).

So, I have to ask, does this seem all right? I will obviously keep an eye on the plant for the next four to five days an watch out for an abnormalities and to make sure the aphids have gone, and then later treat the other VFTs. Also, the label said not to store the diluted solution… did they mean not to store it for long-term use? Will it be okay if I use it in 3 weeks for another application? On last thing… the bottle did not have any type of “use by” date or an expiration date. Since I did not use very much at all will the product be usable for (let’s say) next year?

Thanks so much for the help and sorry for the long essay post (LOL)… maybe this will help someone with the same problem in the future.
 
  • #19
I finally got the Ortho Systemic Insecticide today. I spent the last couple days trying other methods to get rid of the aphids and ants, but they didn’t work. I was hesitant in getting the insecticide mainly because I didn’t have any experience with it and wanted to prevent possible damage to the plants due to improper application.

After getting home I got a mild case of OCD. LOL. I must have read the label and attached booklet about forty times before taking action; maybe it was due to my nervousness. The booklet said to dilute 2.5 tablespoons of the insecticide in one gallon of water for use against aphids. I did as directed in my garage; using one of my RO gallons and one of those small measuring cups that comes with cough medicine to prepare the solution. Then I sprayed one of my VFT’s making sure to cover all the foliage with the liquid. It initially was sort of foamy, then it had the consistency (or appearance) of water. The ants died on contact, and some of the aphids stayed on the developing traps (this was were they were mostly concentrated)(also I should note that they were too small to tell whether they died or not…). I let the plant sit in my garage for about half an hour and I then took it outside, where it was not receiving direct sunlight (it was already sundown around 6:45).

So, I have to ask, does this seem all right? I will obviously keep an eye on the plant for the next four to five days an watch out for an abnormalities and to make sure the aphids have gone, and then later treat the other VFTs. Also, the label said not to store the diluted solution… did they mean not to store it for long-term use? Will it be okay if I use it in 3 weeks for another application? On last thing… the bottle did not have any type of “use by” date or an expiration date. Since I did not use very much at all will the product be usable for (let’s say) next year?

Thanks so much for the help and sorry for the long essay post (LOL)… maybe this will help someone with the same problem in the future.
You'll be able to tell if it killed the aphids in a day or so. They will turn black and dry up, but will still be stuck to the leaf. They are easy to brush off if you prefer to not leave them on the plant. It would be best to use what ever you have mixed as soon as possible. It doesn't store well. Pour it on the ant hill if you can or use it on other plants that have aphids. Just don't pour it down the drain. It may get through the wastewater treatment plant and be put into a river or stream. As to your question on the shelf life of the concentrate, I don't know how long it's good for.

NEWBIE QUESTION -------> "What make milled LFS so good for seedlings?" "Is standard peat too heavy, too dense for sowing?"
Regular LFS is too open for the tiny seeds of most CPs. They fall down into the media where they may be unable to germinate and if they land on an exposed end of LFS, it dries out before the seeds can set a good root system. Milled LFS doesn't have the large openings, so the seeds stay on the surface and the water is distibuted more evenly through the moss.
 
  • #20
Thanks Steve. The majority of the aphids did go away:). The ones that stayed “stuck” on the foliage, did turn black, as you mentioned. So far, I have not noticed any damage to the plant. The rest of them will be srayed tomorrow night.
Thanks for the response.
 
Back
Top