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Pygmies

Do pygmy sundews require dormancy?
 
This is a difficult question.  In habitat, dormancy is inevitable, except in cases where there is moisture available in the Australian harsh summer.  In cultivation, dormancy may be forestalled in some species by keeping the pots well moistened: but this is true only for some species.  Other species (notably the orange flowered forms frequently found in lateritic mediums) will go dormant despite any efforts to keep them in production.  Problem species for me include D. barbigera, citrina, closterostigma, hyperostigma, manii, pygmaea, platystigma, occidentalis, spilos, sewelliae, silvicola, lasiantha and others.  Last season was my first with most of these species, and my success was not good from trying to keep them moist.  What is needed I believe are for such species to be in deep pots, where the long hairlike roots can be encouraged to reach deep during the active growing season.  This way the roots can reach the moisture deep in the pot while the surface remains dry.  This season I am going to try allowing the medium to dry to almost bone dry.  I have not tried this, but I have hopes that it will be a better strategy.  I will say this: if your plants do go dormant, as evidenced by the formation of a stipular cone, no amount of watering will encourage them to grow, and if applied, will lead to rotting of the rosettes.  In habitat losses can be nearly 90% of the populations, and the survivors replenish the population via gemmae production in the wet season.

If you have a species you are concerned about, I can tell you how it behaved for me last season.

Good luck with your efforts!
 
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