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Thread: Bufo Americanas habitat

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    Sarracenia Collector Adam's Avatar
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    Bufo Americanas habitat

    I was wondering how to create a Bufo Americanas habitat(for indoors).(I only have one right now)
    I have a tank(I should have a lot of sizes) and was just wondering on some special requirements... this sound OK?
    Fish tank gravel for a substrate of the dry level (I'm possibly thinking of how people do with Fire Bellies, can't find a pic but people have a level about halfway up the tank that's fiberglass and underneath there is a water area, that you can add rocks to for the toad to get out with, and also you can have fiberglass ramps. I'm possibly thinking of having a few ramps that extend all the way to the bottom of the tank.), a waterfall and stream area(hopefully the old Firebelly tank still has this) and feed a dozencrickets whenever there are no crickets left. Possibly once a week freeding?
    Lighting: no particular lighting. Let's see maybe a shelter for the toads... I think that may be it. A small water dish(unless we still have the stream.)
    Sorry that this is so long, and possibly confusing. Please let me know if this will work.
    Also, can I keep Fire Belly toads and buffos together?
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizasaur
    Minor x Purp I actually have. Well,technically it's Minor Okee x Psitt Green.

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    swords's Avatar
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    One problem I have with gravel is that it's so large it allows food and waste to fall inbetween the pieces and rot fouling the water. I use gravel in the immediate are of the water features but for the rest large 1-2" gravel pieces or hydroton in a 2" deep layer as drainage "false bottom" for the soil portion elevating it above the water line and some kind of actual soil/subtsrate above the false bottom that I can plant or landscape. For a forest toad main substrate I would use peat, rounded orchid bark (shredded cypress mulch may puncture their soft bellies) and crushed dry oak leaf mixed in and of course some twigs and uncrushed dry oak leaves scattered about ontop of the soil for hiding and camouflaging himself against. You could also plant some of the tank so he has more hiding options/less stress. This soil mix works very well for certain forest mosses that don't need to be constantly wet such as cap mosses (short bottle brush bristle type mosses), most ferns and tropicals will grow well in it.

    I myself would not mix species in a tank other than clean up crew (Isopods & springtails) and main display animal(s) of the same species if they are communal enough.
    Last edited by swords; 08-22-2010 at 05:51 PM.

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    Sarracenia Collector Adam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swords View Post
    One problem I have with gravel is that it's so large it allows food and waste to fall inbetween the pieces and rot fouling the water. I use gravel in the immediate are of the water features but for the rest large 1-2" gravel pieces or hydroton in a 2" deep layer as drainage "false bottom" for the soil portion elevating it above the water line. For a forest toad main substrate I would use peat, rounded orchid bark and crushed dry oak leaf mixed in and of course some twigs and uncrushed dry oak leaves scattered about ontop of the soil for hiding and camouflaging himself against. You could also plant some of the tank so he has more hiding options.

    I myself would not mix species in a tank other than clean up crew (Isopods & springtails) and main display animal(s) of the same species if they are communal enough.
    Ok then. I would guess I would only need a 5 or 10 gal, it is pretty small.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizasaur
    Minor x Purp I actually have. Well,technically it's Minor Okee x Psitt Green.

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    swords's Avatar
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    I'd go with a 10 gallon, the price is practically the same but a 10 gives you much more room for the guy to explore/hide & thus relax into captivity and give you more decorating options.

    Setting up tanks is my fave thing next to watching them grow in & mature of course!

    I would only add a couple crickets every other day and see if he eats them, only feed when there are no more of the two in the tank. There's no sense in having a bunch of starving crickets running around the tank fouling the waterdish and possibly biting your toad giving him an infection and eating any live plants you put in there. I keep my crickets and roaches well fed on cheap high protein dry cat food in a "Kricket Keeper" so they are always fat and nutritious when the critters get them.

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    FlyedPiper's Avatar
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    The american toad is a land lubber. Best setup would be an all land tank with eco earth coco fiber kept moist and a water bowl, IMO. If you HAVE to do a half and half tank keep the water levels only an inch or two (they are not swimmers) and don't use gravel. It can be ingested while feeding and can block the toads digestive tract.

    Also, I wouldn't keep the firebellies with the americans. Their care is very different (the firebellies are mostly aquatic). Toads will eat anything that will fit in their mouths, including other toads.
    Last edited by FlyedPiper; 08-22-2010 at 09:59 PM.

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    Sarracenia Collector Adam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyedPiper View Post
    The american toad is a land lubber. Best setup would be an all land tank with eco earth coco fiber kept moist and a water bowl, IMO. If you HAVE to do a half and half tank keep the water levels only an inch or two (they are not swimmers) and don't use gravel. It can be ingested while feeding and can block the toads digestive tract.

    Also, I wouldn't keep the firebellies with the americans. Their care is very different (the firebellies are mostly aquatic). Toads will eat anything that will fit in their mouths, including other toads.
    I decided on just a 10 gallon single story, with peat, and a small water dish. Although I could always put a small 2nd level overtop of it sometime.

    ---------- Post added at 09:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by swords View Post
    I'd go with a 10 gallon, the price is practically the same but a 10 gives you much more room for the guy to explore/hide & thus relax into captivity and give you more decorating options.

    Setting up tanks is my fave thing next to watching them grow in & mature of course!

    I would only add a couple crickets every other day and see if he eats them, only feed when there are no more of the two in the tank. There's no sense in having a bunch of starving crickets running around the tank fouling the waterdish and possibly biting your toad giving him an infection and eating any live plants you put in there. I keep my crickets and roaches well fed on cheap high protein dry cat food in a "Kricket Keeper" so they are always fat and nutritious when the critters get them.
    Did not know crickets could bite them...
    Dry cat food? I just use the cricket cubes... speaking of which, I need to find some...
    I do not know where my kricket keeper is, so I will look for a sutiable container.
    Growlist: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...row-Trade-List
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    Quote Originally Posted by lizasaur
    Minor x Purp I actually have. Well,technically it's Minor Okee x Psitt Green.

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    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
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    I thought they were Bufo Marine....?

  8. #8
    swords's Avatar
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    High protein dry cat food will keep your crickets full and help keep them from eating each other or attempting to nibble on your critters which crickets will do if they are starving. The crickets will appreciate it if you grind it into powder with a coffee grinder but it's not necessary they will chew on full pieces too but they will eat more and get fatter if it's made into a powder so I powder it so that each cricket makes a bigger meal for my critters. I don't use the retail cricket feed because it's not good for them long term since it has calcium in it, which is bad for insects and is way overpriced for what you get. A retail jar of cricket feed is usually $6-9 for two cups whereas a 5 lb bag of dry cat food lasts almost forever and is only about $1.25. The biggest plus is the crickets cannibalism is lessened and if they grow in your care they will survive their molts by not eating a bunch of calcium, so you have them longer which saves you money on feeders. You can also feed your crickets oranges, romaine lettuce, crushed grapes, celery, all sorts of leftover fresh fruits and veggies helps make them better for your display animal to eat.

    Instead of buying the Flukers Kricket Kwencher (the colored jello cubes the crickets "drink") get the bag of "Soil Moisture" water crystals from the garden center or walmart. It's the same as kricket kwencher but has no calcium added so it's better for them and costs you about 10x less since it's sold dry and not pre-expanded with water (basically you're paying for the water when you buy the Flukers stuff at Petco). You can also buy the water crystals here by the pound: http://www.watersorb.com but a large bag of Soil Moisture will last you years since you only use a tablespoon of dry crystals to a gallon of reverse osmosis water and that gallon of water crystals lasts a long time.

    You will want to keep the crickets and the toad separate until it's time for the toad to eat them because crickets are messy and will knock their food and water crystal trays contents all over. So it's best if they are separate that way you can keep the toads enclosure nice and clean. And each time your cricket cage runs out, clean it before you go and buy more. Put on some gloves (I do) and wash out the container and food & water crystal trays with hot water and one of those sponges with the scrub pad on the back - don't use any soap! Then set it back up with food and water so when I come home with new crickets it's all ready for them.
    Last edited by swords; 08-23-2010 at 09:52 AM.

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