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Thread: HELP>BAD SHED

  1. #1

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    My baby leo, Bindi is shedding all of it is gone except three of her toes. I tried to peel it off but she wont stay still. She soaked in her water but it isn't off. Also, my leopard gecko isn't eating. I got her on X-mas eve and she still hasn't ate except for her shedded skin. What do I do? She drinks but other than that I have never seen her eat!!! One more thing, She has a hot rock, but it is covered in a tupperware container so she doesn't burn herself. Is this enough heat? I also have a 60 watt incandescent regular lightbulb and a full spectrum daybulb. She was on ESU lizard litter desert blend but i put her on paper towels today. Am I doing anything wrong. This is my first leo and I don't want her to die. As I am only a kid, I don't have all the money in the world to spend, so I can't buy anything such as another $30 UVA/UVB light.

    PS: MY BEARDIE IS ON ESU blah blah thingy too. Should I change it. He is 10 inches long
    Thanks,
    Alex [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

  2. #2

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    You should try doing this. Place the leo in a temporary enclosure during feedings. Place a few dusted crickets in the cage (no bedding or anything, just the leo and the crickets). it will make it easier for the leo to find the food.

    As for the sheddinmg problems, try the soacking thing again. Soak for awhile in luke warm water. If that fails, get some unscented lotion and place on the skin. it will loosen it up.

    The best bedding for baby lizards would be paper towels, as no fear of sand impaction is there.
    Taproot, Anti-Flag, The Casualties, Alkaline Trio, Eleventeen, Deadsy, AFI...what's not to love?

  3. #3

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    If the gecko is not feeding then you need to determine the temperatures in the enclosure. Use a movable thermometer and place it under the warm side of the cage check the temperature. It should be at least 80 F (85 is better) the cool side of the enclosure can be much lower (I used to keep my leopards in a 75 gallon aqaurium. The hide area under the hot spot was 85 F and the cool side of the cage ran about 68 F in the winter. The geckos would come out and cruise around feeding and then return to to the warm Zone to digest. (I also got the best reproduction out of this group). If the temps work out okay, are you offering the proper sized insect. It should not be larger than the gecko's head and ideally about half the size of the geckos head. If you are offering the right sized cricket do you know if it is passing urates? (Chalky white deposits). If it is not passing urates than it may be impacted (and could still be impacted even if it is passing urates just a little less likely) in which case it will need to see a vet. If the gecko is retaining shed skin on the toes then it needs a more humid retreat to assist with shedding. Use a tupperwater container with a hole cut in the side that the geck can enter and place a moist (not wet) substrate on the bottom (I use broken up long fiber sphagnum moss, not sphagnum peat) and just keep this damp.
    Other than that the advise above to remove the retained skin should work just fine.
    Ed
    Ed

  4. #4

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    Thanks guys, she is eating. The lady at Petco suggested that I changed her water to gatorade because it had electrolytes in it.
    She has ate 9 mealworms and a waxworm along with dome crickets.

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