User Tag List

Informational! Informational!:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 8 of 17

Thread: petiolaris complex

  1. #1
    rattler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    missing, presumed dead
    Posts
    8,554
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    what exactly are those who are having success doing. i had paradoxa for awhile before my plant stand colapsed it was doing wonderfully in what i considered intermidiate/highland conditions for my neps. warm(but not hot days) and cool nights it did great in an open tray. plantstand collpsed, the paradox was uninjured, the only spot i had availible for it was in an open toped 10 gal tank where it was moved to within a half hour of the collapse. temps light and water level stayed the same and it keeled over in about 2 weeks.

    been reading over posts from the last 6 or 8 months. lots of cool pics of the complex, lots of talk about soils but lil mention of humidity and temps other than using a "hot tank"

    on the topic of soils Tamlin brought up the fact that when these go dormant you need to get the soil to dry fast. my thought is a tall terra cotta pot with a loose mix. any houghts? ive used terra cotta with success with other CPs, yah just gotta use brand new pots and strictly RO water and ive never had an issue with salt build up. infact i can get some Utrics to grow on the outsides of these pots
    cervid serial killer
    Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety
    I didn't get stimulated but he kept his promise on change, that's about all I got left!
    http://www.wolfpointherald.com/--http://www.safety-brite.net/

  2. #2
    homer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Puyallup, Washington USA
    Posts
    679
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hello,

    One of my D. ordensis went dormant twice now during the past 2 years. My D. falconeri has been coming out of dormancy just recently. I have several clones of D. paradoxa, and none of them every displayed any sort of dormancy charateristics. They (paradoxa) are the easiest Petiolaris Complex Drosera to grow. Soil mixture doesn't need to be too specific, as regular Drosera mix (50/50 peatmoss perlite, equal parts sand and peatmoss) serves them well. I wouldn't worry about your next D. paradoxa going dormant. The key is to keep them hot. Lowland conditions with "standard" room humidity should be just fine.

    Gotta run!

    -Homer

  3. #3
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    18,768
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm pretty much echo Homer om D. paradoxa, but this plant is as indestructible (barring physical catastrophe) as a D. binata. I started mine from seed in late summer of 2004 and moved it to the lab in late fall. It resided on a SW window sill for a full year and never died back. I mixed sand and peat and topdressed with dried LFS, which eventually became alive LFS. I kept it soggy. It flowers, like a U. livida. Did well with temps in the 50's to 90's for me. Likes a lot of light.

    I just receieved a D. petiolaris-dilatato and it is in sand and peat - what it came in. Can't say too much about it, since it is new and only now sending up healthy leaves / traps. I hope that in time it will be as red as the paradoxa I've been posting.

    By dormancy, it was never said directly, but are we talking about a typical Australian hot, dry summer dormancy - the kind that pigmy and tuberous sundews are supposed to experience?

  4. #4
    rattler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    missing, presumed dead
    Posts
    8,554
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks Homer and Jim, BTW Jim if your still interested in those Utrics im interested in one or two of your paradoxa

    ill just plan on setting up a seperate tank for these guys as it sounds like im getting ahold of several other than paradoxa. can probably have them share a heat mat with one of my snake tanks
    cervid serial killer
    Know guns, know peace, know safety. No guns, no peace, no safety
    I didn't get stimulated but he kept his promise on change, that's about all I got left!
    http://www.wolfpointherald.com/--http://www.safety-brite.net/

  5. #5
    homer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Puyallup, Washington USA
    Posts
    679
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]By dormancy, it was never said directly, but are we talking about a typical Australian hot, dry summer dormancy - the kind that pigmy and tuberous sundews are supposed to experience?
    Yes, there is a definate wet and dry season. Year around temps remain very hot. These Drosera grow close to water, and from what I read each Petiolaris Drosera species prefer a particular soil mixture, that insulates the roots from dessicating. It's been on my mind to talk with the geologists at work to see if I can mimic these soil mixtures... Allen Lowrie's Carnivorous Plants of Australia Vol. 3 has wonderful information and photo's of these plants in the wild.

    My D. falconeri and ordensis, that I mentioned earlier, went through a "dormancy", but I waterered them occasionally, and wasn't too hard on them. I use an adjustable photoperiod, so that probably triggered it. If you use a long daylight photoperiod you probably don't have to mess with dormancy.

    -Homer

  6. #6
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    18,768
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have been using strictly window sill sunlight as my photoperiod trigger. I don't have artificial light at all (yet). How would I treat the dilatato-petiolaris in terms of water table, watering, media, and dormancy? When should I attempt to dry it out? I have at a west window sill in my attic, which fluctuates according to sun, clouds, day/night, and temps and can get get in the 90's during the summer. I'm thinking that 95 degrees should faze this kind of plant, as it didn't faze the paradoxa or adelae or any of the pigmy sundews...

  7. #7
    homer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Puyallup, Washington USA
    Posts
    679
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My only D. dilatato-petiolaris (my avatar) is 1 year old that I grew from seed. So far, it hasn't displayed any dormancy characteristics. I've been keeping it in a humid environment. Grows in 60/40 peatmoss and perlite. I water it like a Nepenthes... topwatering every other day or so. It doens't stand in water, as any water in the growing chamber evaporates and condenses on the lid.

    -Homer

  8. #8
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    18,768
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (rattler_mt @ May 22 2006,12:44)]thanks Homer and Jim, BTW Jim if your still interested in those Utrics im interested in one or two of your paradoxa

    ill just plan on setting up a seperate tank for these guys as it sounds like im getting ahold of several other than paradoxa. can probably have them share a heat mat with one of my snake tanks
    Sure!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •