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Thread: pygme Drosera

  1. #9
    白人看不懂 Drosera36's Avatar
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    As far as I know, this "dormancy" is really just an extreme dry period in which plants will tend to die off in. Then in winter, they are pounded with rain. I've never heard of any pygmies needing a dormancy, just that in winter, to get them to make gemmae, they can either be exposed to cooler temps, or a shorter photoperiod.

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    My pygmys (D.scorpioides, nitidula, palacea, pulchella) have been doing fine for 3 years without a dry dormancy and have produced gemmae. I can't speak for the other species.
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    Always a newbie glider14's Avatar
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    so what would be the best way to give a dormancy to pygmies?
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    From a couple of years ago-

    http://www.terraforums.com/ib312....04;st=0

    Nothing's changed since then.

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    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (chloroplast @ Oct. 23 2006,4:59)]My pygmys (D.scorpioides, nitidula, palacea, pulchella) have been doing fine for 3 years without a dry dormancy and have produced gemmae. I can't speak for the other species.
    I have had them now for over 2 years and my expereince has been similar to that of Chloroplast's....although I seem to have problems with the D. scorpioides dying off a bit in the summer. Please click the link that Seandew provided for more insights.

    In general, I have found pigmy drosera to be easy plants to cultivate, especially the nitidulas.

  6. #14
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    Thanks everyone for all the responses! I guess I'll just grow them in the greenhouse and leave them pretty much alone. Cool. I just have to move them to a larger, deeper pot (still in the sales pot), but otherwise I'll let them take care of themselves.
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    Hi Dave,

    All the mentioned species in this thread are easy growers, tending to slow down after the spring flowering after the winter gemmae season - the little buggers get plumb worn out - but no real marked dormancy per se. Other species have a definite dormany over the summer months where overwatering and poor air circulation will do them in. Some summer sensitive species include Drosera pyncoblasta, leiloblastus, hyperostigma, citrina, mannii, microphylla, and many others. The best plan with these sensitives is to grow in as deep a pot as possible, and watering from the bottom, the aim being a nearly totally dry surface , yet with moisiture available to the long deep roots which easily rot of the medium gets too wet or too dry. Leave the pots in the tray only for 5 or 10mins so the mix can absorb some water, but not so long as to wet the surface. The addition of a fan greatly improved my mortality rate, abd I found lower light levels benificial at this time vs the full sin they normally love.

    The mentioned D. pulchella hybrid is likely either D. pulchella x nitidula if the styles are clublike and red, or D. pulchella x ericksoniae if the flowers are pink with white styles. Both are in wide circulation and easy species.
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    in line with how to grow pygmies, I have a little pot of D x Badgerup growing in my room under growlights that used to be on for 14 hours and now i have it set to be on for 12 hours. Is this enough to trigger gemmae production (as in the plants think its "fall"?) Should I set the light period to 10 hours instead?
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