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Thread: Drosophyllum lusitanicum germination

  1. #9
    白人看不懂 Drosera36's Avatar
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    Here's what it says in his book:

    "Sow in spring so that the plants have developed woody stems by autumn. All pots must be of clay, their porosity being vital to the method. Take a 4.5 inch (11cm) full length pot and insert a wick consisting of several long pieces of sphagnum moss through its drainage hole. Put a large drainage crock over the latter, and make sure the wick protrudes to the side of this, and also through the bottom of the pot (there is a diagram to the side). Now cover the crock with a thin layer of sphagnum. Fill the pot to within 1/4 inch (6mm) of the top with a compost of two parts granulated moss peat, two parts John Innes compost of two parts granulated moss peat, two parts John Innes Potting Compost No. 2 and one and a half parts of sand, gently firming this. Sow two or three seeds in the central part, 1/8 inch (3mm) deep and 3/4 inch (2cm) apart. Gently firm. Place in 1.5 inches (3.5cm) of water till the surface is damp. Allow to drain. Place a sheet of glass over the top of the pot to cut down evaporation, placing a piece of card or paper over this to cut out all light. I never apply bottom heat, finding the coolhouse temperature adequate for germination within about 6 weeks time. Regularly inspect the pot. If the compost is becoming dry, it should be watered using the immersion technique as above-you must not water from the top. At the first sign of germination the glass is removed. The plant is now placed in a sunny position close to the glass of the greenhouse.

    Extreme care is needed in watering; it is not a bog plant and will soon die if overwatered, but will be equally sure to do so if the roots are allowed to become dry. Always water by immersion, and always do so if you are going out for the day and there is the slightest chance of its drying out; these first months are crucial. If more than one seed germinates, pull out the unwanted ones, making quite sure you do not disturb your selected seedling.

    When the plant has formed its sixth leaf you can proceed with the next stage. Select a 7 or 8 inch (17.5 or 20cm) clay pot, place three or four corks over the drainage hole, and just cover these with sphagnum moss. Sufficient of the recommended compost is added and firmed, so that if the 4.5 inch (11cm) pot is placed on it, its rim is at least 1.5 inch (1.3cm) above that of the larger. Now put an even layer of sphagnum moss over the compost, using sufficient to ensure that when the smaller pot is placed firmly over it its rim is now 3/4 inch (2cm) proud of tat of the larger pot. Hold it there, and pack the space between the two pots firmly to within 1/3 inch (8mm) of the rim of the larger pot. Now water this sphagnum moss well, and place the pot again in a sunny position near the glass."

    Holy crap that was a lot to type. Heh, this isn't illegal to copy out of the book, is it? Heh, I guess it's not a 'quick synopsis' either. Hope this helps.

    -Ben
    Last edited by Drosera36; 04-24-2007 at 04:26 PM. Reason: some spelling mistakes due to fast typing
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  2. #10
    ChronoKiento's Avatar
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    ....okay that was a very complex method...

    I'm not really sure if I could do that. I should try to make a step by step version, lol.

    I'm more interested in seeing how elgecko did it. I don't think he used the Slack method.
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  3. #11
    I've got a magic window! elgecko's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments.

    Here’s a pic of the over 2 and a half year old plant….. Dead.



    In it’s better state, alive last summer.



    Flowers.



    I have never tried the Slack method for growing Drosophyllum lusitanicum. It sounded more complicated then I was willing to try……
    Drop some seed in a pot. Now that’s my speed, well maybe just a touch more involved, but not much.

    Let’s start with the pot. I grow my Dewy Pine in an 8” plastic pot. I place the seed in the pot that I want it to grow and spend its entire life span in.
    I have read where some people germinate them in a small pot and then transplant the plant to a bigger pot. I think most unestablished small plants are touchy when transplanting, and knowing that this plant is extremely touchy, why chance it?
    Place the seed in the 8” pot and be done with it, almost (see seed preparation).

    My old soil mix was perlite, vermiculite, and play sand in equal parts. This time I use a soil mix of perlite (30%), vermiculite (30%), play sand (30%), and a touch of peat (10%).

    As for watering; after mixing my soil and filling the pot I soak the soil till the water runs out the bottom of the pot.

    Seed preparation: I use fine sandpaper to sand the seed coat before placing it into the pot. When I can start to see some white through the seed coat, it is sanded enough.
    I have read where some people will soak the seed 24 hours in water before sowing. I myself have never tied this and so far have not seen the need.

    As for keeping the soil moist, I mist it everyday to keep the top of the soil damp. I continue misting like this till the plant is bigger. Then I no longer mist and water the pot twice a week, letting it dry out more. If you let it get too dry, you can tell the plant is stressed by floppy leaves.

    Currently the pot is in my south facing window and will stay there till the plant is larger and can be moved outside.



    During the Spring / Summer / Fall: I grow my Dewy Pine outside in full sun. During this time the plant gets watered every other day.

    During the Winter time I bring the plant inside and grow on the wooden shelf in front of the window.
    Winter humidity: 30 - 50% (Lower humidity in the day. I have the humidifier on my furnace set to around 45%. Furnace does not run much, sun shines in the room where I grow the plants and heats the area up.)

    Winter / Fall temps: I keep the house cool. Heat set to 64 degrees. (Humidified air feels warmer then dry air) During the day it can hit mid 70's with the sun shinning in the room where I grow the Dewy Pine. Nights can drop to low 60's.

    Hope this helps.


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  4. #12
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    Steven- Never a use of any fungicide for the seeds? I currently have 3 pots with 2 seeds each in them... two I cut the end off of, 2 I sanded as you described and 2 I just soaked. So far, nothin. I do have them in the g/h where they are catching "fog" from the fogger... Any clue on how long to germination? I'm not counting these out :P
    Thanks for the details!!!
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  5. #13
    Always a newbie glider14's Avatar
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    when i get my shelf and therefor have more room, ill start to grow one of these puppies too bad about the mama thouhg how many seed did you get from it?
    Alex
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  6. #14
    I've got a magic window! elgecko's Avatar
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    Andrew,
    I have never used a fungicide on the seeds.

    I was not even going to look at the pot when I was watering, but for some reason I did, and there it was already. I was shocked at how fast this one has germinated. It might not even be 3 weeks yet, more like 2. I should have written it down when I planted them.

    How hot does your greenhouse get? I think I've read a few places that they seem to like it cool to germinate.


    My Grow List Updated 8/24/17

  7. #15
    I've got a magic window! elgecko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glider14 View Post
    when i get my shelf and therefor have more room, ill start to grow one of these puppies too bad about the mama thouhg how many seed did you get from it?
    Alex
    I'm guessing just over 100 seeds.
    It could have been a lot more, but the flowers the plant was forming near the end of its life never set seed. They flowered, started to form a seed pod, and then the flower stem died before the seeds formed.


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  8. #16
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    nights in the 50s, days (in the hotspots) mid 80s (prolly 70s where they sit... in the draft of the cooler)
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