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I got a new package of plants yesterday (no pics, but soon!):

Drosera adelae
Drosera filiformis var. tracyi
Drosera binata [T form]
Drosera binata [dichotoma 'Giant Form']

I immediately repotted D. adelae into a bigger pot, as it is doing pretty good (although it has much smaller, redder, leaves than my D. adelae that came from Lowes Deathcubes -- probably because it was grown in better conditions before I got it) and I want to get some clumping going on. I also took a cutting from my D. adelae and put it in my clear box of water with my Cape Sundew cuttings -- and the Gro-Bulb I am using to keep that warm and bright promptly broke, so... ya... Bad timing.

I also repotted the D. binata [T-form], as it looks, well, dead. If I didn't know better, I would say it's pot was empty. It was in a 3" pot, I put it in a slightly bigger 4-5" pot. I do not know how they look during hibernation, but I am a bit worried. Should I be seeing a bulb or a hibernation bud of some kind? When repotting, I simply slid the old plant, media and all, out of the pot and put it into the new pot, filling around it, but i didn't see much in the way of roots on the side.

The D. filiformis var. tracyi has a few dead stems coming out of it, but it also has teardrop shaped buds of growth sitting there. I am planning on leaving it in it's current, small, pot until spring, then moving it to a 5" pot (if I'm going to have it inside during winter) or one of my new foam planters (if outside).

The D. binata [dichotoma] is the one I actually have some questions about. It has 2 pale yellow (kinda sickly looking) leaves out of it's bulb, which are kinda hanging out ready to unfurl.

How important is dormancy to a D. binata [Dichotoma]? I was going to repot it in a nice 8" pot real quick while I have time this weekend, but said pot would need to be a bit further back from the window if I went that route -- I plan on putting it on my bookshelf that is right next to the windowsill, overlooking my other CPs. I could keep it in a smaller pot (it's current 3", or a 5") and keep it on the windowsill, but I was hoping to get it in a 8-12" pot and let it go nuts with new growth in the spring.

The heating in my apartment (central air, I cannot lower the temperature of just one room) is kept at 70 degrees while I am home, I could grab a sweater and drop the temperature if need be, or even crack the window ever so slightly. Closer to the window it hovers around 50-60ish. At night, when I turn off the heat, the room drops to the mid-low 60s, and the window drops to the low 40s. Would that be cold enough for D. filiformis var. tracyi / D. binata [Dichotoma] dormancy?

I do have a VFT and S. leucophylla in the same windowsill, which appear to be having (very green) dormancies -- growth has stopped/never started with them (I rescued them last month from a local grocery store), but they don't seem to be dying back and aren't looking confused. Maybe the (extremely) limited photoperiod -- about 6 hours of direct sun -- is keeping them dormant?

Outside isn't a good option right yet (next year maybe) -- it's hovering as a high of around 31-32 degrees, and lows in the mid twenties, and they're not acclimated to that yet. D. filiformis var. tracyi might be able to handle it, I donno if D. binata [Dichotoma] will ever be able to handle that.



tl;dr: Binata T-form, Dichotoma 'giant': Dormancy required? 55-60 day/45-50 nights cold enough for dormancy?
 
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That is true love- the willingness to sacrafice your warmth for a plant, :)

Sounds like your D. binata [dichotoma] needs more light???
i don't know if dormancy is a "must," but my T-form formed a hibernacula in 38-50 degree temps. here is a pic of the hibernacula of the T-form. It's pretty distinct, so I'm guessing your's doesn't look like this: http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/sundewman/Website photos/3ef96927.jpg
I read the D. binata [dichotoma] will die down to the roots when frozen and then will come up again in the spring- just like any normal flowering perennial.
 
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No, I do not have that on my T-Form. Maybe it's buried. I hope so anyway...
 
im thinking your vfts and sarr are in a light dormacy. deep dormacy is freezing temps, and light is just a little adjustment in temp, and less light.
 
Well, Light or Deep, as long as they live, that's my concern. ;)

I just wonder if D. binata [dichotoma 'Giant'] *needs* a dormancy. I heard that D. binata can take one or leave it, and doesn't need one for long term survival, I wonder if D. binata [dichotoma] is the same way...
 
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I've had a variety of binata & filiformis types on window sills and I didn't do anything special for them in terms of temperature. They took whatever I gave them and responded to the change of photoperiod on their own. I've had California Sunset and straight up binata dieback to hibernacula in December, only to re-emerge ~6 weeks later, in January. I wouldn't go out of your way to do anything special.
 
Probably the only plant that has a critical dormancy is D. filiformis tracyii which should have a good tight bud formed at this time of year. The D. binata forms will go dormant with reduced photoperiod or in times of general stress and resume growth when conditions improve. I suggest you keep the photoperiod short for all except D. adelae.

Unless you can give good light to the D. binata, it's best to encourage them not to grow in winter, since they tend to get etiolated and use their reserves doing so in less than bright conditions. However, if the plants are weak and still in active growth, you should try to give them the best light possible to get them established.

Should the worst occur and you find no active growth with increased daylength for the D. binata, be sure to take root and leaf cuttings. Depending on the plant vigor, it might be wise to do so now.

The primary factor in plant dormancy is the daylength, not the cold. I have D. binata forms that held their dormancy all winter in a warm terrarium with the photoperiod set at under 11 hrs. daylength. This applies to some extent to the genera requiring a true dormancy like VFT's and Pitcher Plants as well. Cold is a consideration, since it acts as a deterrant to microbal actions which can affect the plant when not in active growth, but dormancy mechanisms are controlled in plants by daylength, as is flowering.

I hope this helps you get your plants established. Congrats on your new additions, they are all fine sundews!
 
Well, the tracyi has a few "teardrop" shaped buds in the soil, it is not actively growing. I have not repotted it yet.

The adelae has very small leaves, looks like it has several grow points already. It is in a 6" pot surrounded by my other plants, in a clear plastic tote acting as a, um "super-saucer" (keeping the rented apartment's carpet clean, woo).

The Binata T-Form looks spartan, I don't see anything aboveground and am afraid to just dig into it and see what I find. There are no leaves to cut off for cuttings, and I was loathe to dig it apart to look for roots.

D. dichotoma has 2 very long, spindly, yellow leaves, looks like they were dormant before the plant shipped, I am.. guessing?

I did notice what I thought was a little red, push-pin sized bud in the middle of the plant but I can't be sure of that... I think it was in dichotoma but it might have been the other one.


Current plans are to take cuttings of all of them ASAP, just in case they can't survive winter around here (either in my windowsill or outside).
 
This past fall I put my binatas and tracyiis to sleep, but not before taking leaf cuttings. They sprouted and flourished and now these baby tracyiis are dormant. The baby binatas aren't. I have no explanation as to why. They just are.

100_0592.jpg


Picture157.jpg


Picture156.jpg
 
  • #10
Well, unless I really mistook what's going on... Tracyi has already came out of dormancy. It's sending up a new leaf -- or I didn't notice one of the little buds was pointing straight up and was vaugely leaf-like.

I think it's waaaay too early, but I donno what to do. It's photoperiod is natural light from my windowsill, about 12 hrs a day, 6 of which is direct overhead sun.

Now that it's dormancy has (presumably) been broken, is it too late to just throw it in the fridge?

Edit: AHA! I noticed what's going on. The bulb isn't flush with the ground. What I thought was a leaf pointing up is really pointing to the side -- there's a similar one pointing straight down in the media. So in theory, I'm ok!
 
  • #11
I wouldn't do a thing. We're ~4 weeks into the photoperiod now increasing. Not that a whole lot of change has occurred, or at least visibly so, but I would anticipate the plants breaking dormancy pretty soon, on their own.
 
  • #12
All my D. filiformis are waking up. They go to bed early like around October.

Just follow the plants lead and let them do their thing.

Early to bed. Early to rise....
 
  • #13
K. I decided to go ahead and repot the D. dichotoma 'Giant' in a mix of 1:1:.001 Peat:perlite:SoilMoist, it's the same general mix I use on everything else, so it should work well. I was worried about the Soilmoist (little inorganic polymers that suck up water and ooze it back out) but my S. Purpurea has some in it's pot and it's doing *great*.

The temperature difference between where the bigger pot is and the windowsill isn't THAT big, and if photoperiod is the major trick to getting them to go dormant, then I'm fine.

Still worried about the Binata T-Form, to be honest... My guess is the store I got it from just trimmed off all the leaves/stems before shipping, or it's dormant. If it does recover I'm grabbing a cutting ASAP. I'm hesitant to take a root cutting from it right now, as I've never done that.

I do have a container of dried LFS that I'm trying to regenerate (I cheated and threw in a pinch of living stuff from my Nep's pot too) in prep for some Darlingtonia seeds in the future, maybe I could just cut a root off the Binata and throw it in there? I also have a small box of water that I am sprouting some Drosera and VFT cuttings, maybe throwing a root in there would work too?
 
  • #14
Live LFS is like gold. I start all sorts of seeds and leaves in it. The two sundews, VFT's, and Cephalotus work very well in this, as did a D. regia.

Picture157.jpg
 
  • #15
The D. dichotoma 'Giant''s sickly yellow leaves are turning green. I haven't been able to keep a good enough eye on the D. tracyi but it almost seems like some of the teardrop buds are uncurling and pointing up. Adelae has lost all it's dew, I think it's in shock, hope it recovers. Still nothing from the Binata but I wasn't expecting anything for another few months.
 
  • #16
Filiformis Tracyii seems to be pushing out of it's pot, very weird. I might be washing the soil away though, I use a turkey baster to water my plants. Will keep an eye on it and adjust as needed. :)

Binata is still completely non-reactive. I am keeping it moist but I believe the plant is dead. I might take some root cuttings and try and prop. it.

D. dichotoma 'Giant Form' has a big BIG leaf already, already split into 4 segments and is now so top heavy it is falling over. It has 2 other leaves coming up already. The second one is destined for my cuttings bucket for propagation the second I can. Hope to get a huge collection of baby plants for trade out of it.

Adalae isn't doing anything. No activity at all, the existing leaves aren't even unfurling. I am worried.

I have some D. filiformis ssp "Flordia All Red" seed coming. I was told it's a sub species and not a cultivar. We'll see. I'd like to cross Florida All Red and Tracyi until I get something mostly Tracyi-like without dormancy requirements, but there's probably some important reason why I can't do that. Ah well. :)


When plants go dormant, do they photosynthesize? I thought of this on the way home -- plants buried in the snow don't always die even though they're getting 0 light, so in theory I could throw a bunch of dried LFS or pine needles around and over the plants then throw a burlap bag on top, Wildbill style. I am worried that warm days will wake them up and they'll die from no light, but, it might be something to try at least... I just don't understand how mulching keeps plants warm enough to survive... I would figure they'd still freeze to death.
 
  • #17
How high is the humidity on your D. adelae? I've found that when mine started to peeter out, and I supplied the plant with 100% humidity and a longer photoperiod, it took off like crazy. If your plant doesn't recover, just let me know. It's a weed for me.

...and to answer the last question, the plants seem to have no need for photosynthesis when in a hibernacula bud. I put some D. x hybrida in the fridge that went dormant 4 months ago, and the hibernacula buds are still green. I'm going to take it out soon so I don't push my luck with it...
 
  • #18
When does filiformis normally come out of dormancy? I want to put it outside but won't this year (no time to acclimate it, alas)... I'm just glad that the low light in my windowsill seems to be enough to get it to stay asleep. :)
 
  • #19
I think it depends upon whether they are inside or out, as well as which form they are. Indoor California sunset was waking up in mid-January. And so is Traceyi.
 
  • #20
I did notice this morning a little bit of black on the tips of some of the teardrops. Not all of them, just some. Hope it's not getting sunburned...
 
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