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Thread: some petiolaris dew closeups....

  1. #17
    i dont do pots. amphirion's Avatar
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    @tamlin: what you speak of sounds exactly like what attacked my D. graomogolensis---i am so lucky to have baby plants spring up from the dying mother plant. that being said, I do NOT want to experience this again. Please do post your method!
    " You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means." -Inigo Montoya
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  2. #18
    turkeypig's Avatar
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    Beautiful falconeri there!

    Light is definitely key with these plants.
    Forget about the mundane and meditate.

    Grow list:

    http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=124211

  3. #19
    Charlatan lizasaur's Avatar
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    Oooh, when Tamlin does, we should get this stickied since it's talking about that "mysterious red fungus" that seems to have been plaguing people awhile back and no one knew anything about it.
    Or move it to a separate thread.

    ...Jon's plants make me go

  4. #20

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    Now on the subject of rinsing peat,,,,there is peat and then there is peat. In a sphagnum boy, the uppermost layers in a bog produce the most desirable material for growing CP. These layers are naturally low in nutrients and have great antiseptic qualities that discourage anaerobic processes. The cool conditions and lack of nitrobacter in the substrate maintains these qualities, but the deeper you mine a bog, the greater the presence of cyanobacteria (blue green algae). Blue green algae has the ability to fix nitrogen into the substrate and thrives in oxygen poor conditions (like deep in the bog, or deep in your pots where the substrate is compacted. Peat from deeper layers is NOT good and as one bag of peat looks like any other there is no way to tell by looking. If you use bad peat containing nitrogen fixing organisms, things may be good short term but eventually nitrogen will enter the picture. As salts become accumulated over time via evaportive concentration problems arise. Slime mold is an early indicator which in turn produces nutrients that the Byrophytes are able to exploit, and soon mosses and liverworts start growing as well. Fungus also exploits these available nutrient resources, and fungus gnats, aphids and other critters also soon join the community. Over time, CP fail in theis scenario.
    With a TDS meter 2 independent growers and myself checked the total dissolved solids in the runoff water from the peat we were using. Recommended limits for CP are 150 PPM (parts per million) Our readings were close to 1000PPM, nearly ten times the limit! Add to this complications arising from the use of any sand not close to 100 percent silica and the problem can be drastic since non uniformly white sand must always be suspected of containing other minerals which the acidic quality of the peat will leach out over time.
    There are really only two alternatives: one is to repot annually into new medium, in the meantime syringing the pots at least weekly from above to leach out these nutrients before they concentrate, but this is very demanding in terms of time spent.
    The better alternative is to begin by rinsing all potting media before introducing the seeds or plants. Needed supplies are 3 5 gallon pails, 2 half full of pure water. Put your dry peat in the first, and knead the stuff to get it partially wet. Wait 2 or 3 weeks, then wring out handfulls of moss and place in the second pail, When done, dump the water out of the first pail, replace it with fresh and repeat step one. Wait another week, and take the peat from the second pail, wring it out and put into the empty remaining bucket. Wash an appropriate amount of pure silica sand a couple of times and add to the peat in the third bucket. This is your mix. Fill as many empty pots as you can with this. If you have access for cypress mulch use a layer to block the drain holes, Place these filled pots outside where the rain can reach them and the birds will leave them alone and let the rain cycle through them as long as possible by using the oldest made up pots first. Repeat the process as often as needed but I found about 2x would get me through the season and there was always a pot ready to go without added fuss. I rarely had any issues with opportunistic species and my plants thrived without re potting for many years
    "Grow More, Share More"

  5. #21
    i dont do pots. amphirion's Avatar
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    @tamlin: thanks so much for that info. it's very insightful, and i am currently having blue green algae growing in my U. fulva pot. i guess it's time for a media change!
    " You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means." -Inigo Montoya
    +growlist
    +petiolaris drosera going dormant?
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  6. #22

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    My pleasure! In all fairness I should state that many growers think I'm daft regarding this protocol, but I notice their plants never seemed to do as well as mine did......the chore isn't all that demanding if you work ahead of your needs, and it's great just to be able to have a pot with mix all ready to go/ You have only a couple of messes to clean up instead of every time you pot something

    Good growing means reducing variables, and the small differences can make all the difference between success and failure especially long term.
    "Grow More, Share More"

  7. #23
    CPlantaholic's Avatar
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    Yeah, I have to say that I swear by your method too, Tamlin. I used to have tons of problems until I followed your instructions (I slightly modified it a bit so I can rinse peat in about an hour instead- I just keep wringing it out and placing it into a new rinsing bucket until my wrists are too tired to wring it out anymore (about 4-5 pre-rinses with steaming hot tap water of 150 ppm). Then I rinsed/wrung 3 times with RO or distilled water. Sure enough, as Tamlin described, the ppm dropped about a level of 200-300 compared to mixing distilled h20 with peat the first time and comparing it to the final product for the particular peat I use. Thanks again for sharing this valuable info !

    I haven't touched my pots for about a year now (growing indoors on the tray method) and there's been no algae growth in my pots whatsoever (I should probably give them a top-watering soon though)! Now if only I could find a way to get rid of all the utric weeds...I think the media mix for all my sundews at this point has been converted converted to a ratio of 20 utricularia: 1 peat: 1 silica sand lol I shouldn't have compacted the media so much, but it makes the moisture content last longer if my parents forget to fill the tray up once a week while I'm away for months at a time Boy does it make those utrics thrive! p.s. don't get me wrong- I love growing utrics separately from my sundew pots, but has gotten a little out of control for me.
    Visit The Sundew Grow Guides: http://www.growsundews.com
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    Happy Growing!

  8. #24
    jafvortex93's Avatar
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    wow ive never seen a drosera lanata...its incredible. is yours in an exceptionally good state or is that what is to be expected of a lanata?
    Friendship is like peeing on yourself: everyone can see it, but only you get the warm feeling that it brings.

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