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Thread: Aeroponic Drosera germination via AeroGrow?

  1. #9
    INFECTED Rball's Avatar
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    jonny what i had to do for my camera is take the pic at the closest distance powerful without it being blurry, Then when i went to view the image i was able to zoom in on it and crop the image zoomed, this allowed me to get a close up but not blurry. If i went to close with the camera it was nothing but a blur. maybe your camera doesnt crop but it might in the program you use to upload them to the comp will. Just a thought, i like this idea for the thread showing progress from the begining, im doing the same thing with dews.
    Last edited by Rball; 01-10-2011 at 08:51 PM.

  2. #10
    SDCPs's Avatar
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    I'm glad the seeds are growing for you! You are very welcome to them.

  3. #11

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    Thanks for the update!
    "Grow More, Share More"

  4. #12
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    Trying to take macro shots with a non-DSLR, non-manual focus camera is very difficult. Mostly you have to shot and shot until you capture the shot you want. Fortunately there are little if any cost to "develop" your shots unlike film.

    Some tips: If the camera has a spot metering mode set it to that. Many cameras will lock the focus and exposure when you press the shutter button down halfway. The focus hot spot is usually in the center unless you have a camera which selects the focus hotspot either automatically or manually. So try to compose your shot so the center is on the part you want to focus on is in dead center then press the shutter halfway to lock the focus and exposure. Then recompose your shot while holding the button down halfway. Then take your picture.

    Getting the focus spot where you want it is difficult in non-DSLR cameras because the peephole viewfinder doesn't look through the lens and in macro/closeup mode the center spot in the finder can be way off from the center spot of the lens (parallax). The LCD screen may be too small or dim in bright light for you to make out the details you're trying to focus on. And the lag time to update the screen image makes it difficult to lock the focus at the place in time when it is centered where you want it.

    So again the solution is to just shoot pictures until you get what you want. The rest can be deleted.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  5. #13
    jonnyq's Avatar
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    Hi everyone, thanks for all of the camera advice... A lot of it was a bit beyond me, but that's why there's wikipedia. Still learning, but I think you'll find these to be a marginal improvement, at least...

    I think part of the difficulty was that these guys were still under humidity domes, so trying to take pictures through them was an added challenge... That being said, now that I'm hardening them off, I thought I'd share a few more pictures...

    This is now T+50 days.


    D. capensis typical


    Interestingly, and unexpectedly (at least to me), the albinos are actually flourishing, far more so than the typicals...

    D. capensis 'albino'


    They're really something... SDCPs, not sure what kind of monster plants yielded such vibrant seeds, but thanks!

    And lastly...

    D. capensis 'red'...??


    My apologies to Reaper, it appears that I may have contaminated the red seeds with typical seeds... Either that, or

    1) red pigmentation (anthocyanin?) in the leaves comes later in development?
    2) my conditions aren't right for red pigmentation?
    3) not all of the seeds will produce all-red progeny?

    In either case, so far so good...

    I've used some fine tweezers to deposit some very small dried bloodworm scraps on some of the leaves to give them a bit of a kick... No doubt competition will kick in shortly...
    Last edited by jonnyq; 02-28-2011 at 08:22 PM. Reason: alba -> albino

  6. #14
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    I often use a dissecting needle to gently separate the young seedlings. It seems that if they are too close to each other, they can adversely affect each other as they compete for space, light, and nutrients to grow. Spacing them apart as far as space permits will usually help all of them to grow larger, faster.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

  7. #15
    jonnyq's Avatar
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    Sorry, Mr. Clemens, I just realized that I never responded to your post...

    So, after reading the advice above, I did try to nudge the seedlings apart with a specimen needle, but the problem is that the substrate is a dark-brown sponge rather than peat moss, so the roots have begun establishing themselves into the sponge... I was afraid to use too much force and run the risk of damaging (tearing) the seedlings...?

  8. #16
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    this is what i have been looking for for some time now. iam trying to do this same setup! i hav the aerogarden 7 an i would like to no what kind of medium did you use on top of your aerogarden sponge. and do you think i could just sprinkle the seeds on the top of the sponge without any extra soils, do you think it will grow?

    ---------- Post added at 03:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

    i would like to no if anyone else has tried using an aerogarden to grow sundews?

    any info would be great

    thanks

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