What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

gemmae?

boxofrain

does this rag smell like chloroform to you?
I have some pygmy Drosera gemmae ordered, I see very nice colonies in some photos, and singular plants in others.
Just how many gemmae can/should go in what sized pot? Species plays a part in this?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
They can be pretty densely packed. Their root systems are pretty thin, so they won't crowd each other out. I did a google image search for "pygmy Drosera colony" and came up with some hits showing veritable carpets of the plants.

I recently spread about 40 or so gemmae into a 3-1/2" pot knowing that some will not survive to adulthood. That may be a bit too many, but in general they don't need to be spaced out quite like other plants do.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Fury.
Is it advisable to grow large numbers of them out in a small "tub" and seperate them later?
Or best left in the pot they are to reside in?
 
No problem. Please get a second opinion on this before you go and do anything. I could be completely wrong. But having seen pictures of very densely packed pygmies, I think you should be OK with dozens to a pot.

As for separating them later, that isn't advisable. They have very thin, hair-like root systems that are basically impossible to dig out without snapping them. That kind of root damage will surely kill the plant. So, where they germinate is where they'll stay.
 
They don't mind being packed but if you want each individual to grow nicely then you should give them a bit of space. When spacing them you have to consider the size of an adult specimen...which will vary from species to species. Usually we get more problems with mold in winter and pests on the dense cultivated pots than on the spaced ones. It all depends what you want to accomplish. For a nice visual effect you want to plant them close. For nice grown individuals you want to give them 1\4" to 1" of space between the plants. Some species you can transplant, many rosetted ones don't mind that at all, but on the tall growing species you might want to avoid doing that or get a good scoop of soil with the roots. Place them in the pots they will stay in...they only need about 2-3 months to mature. 4" pots or bigger will do.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would plant them in whatever you are going to plant them in and may that be permanent because if you transplant them they might die because there root are so long and skinny and delicate.
 
Some species you can transplant, many rosetted ones don't mind that at all, but on the tall growing species you might want to avoid doing that or get a good scoop of soil with the roots.

Hey Mark - what are some of the taller growing species besides the obvious D. scorpioides that you referred to that would be less amenable to transplanting? Perhaps a repot is in order if it is truly possible to dig a few kinds out without nuking their root systems.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks folks,
I will place the gemmae where they will grow up. Prolly gunna make a few single ( by planting 3 gemmae and eliminating the extras if any) specimens of each species I have, to be used as mother plants. The others will be colonies, more for display.
BTW I have several types of lighting left over from my old pet store. Are CFL 24" tubes a bit much? I have a few of those left over from reef tanks. Or is plain old 20 wtt florouescent sufficient?


Found it, thanks to the search feature, and a link from a Member.
 
Last edited:
nothing is really a bit much it matters how far away you keep it and ussaually for best color two to three inches away but if you want less color and more green then about 6-12 inches away congrats on the new pygmies update with pic when the germanate.
 
  • #10
I like to plant them tightly together, about 1cm apart. The small species will form a "carpet", and I like the super packed look of a bunch of D. scorpioides.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • #11
I usually try and space the smaller ones about a nickel or penny's breadth apart, just so they can get to full size with no trouble. I'll plant large pots this way at my mother crop, because I find it easier to collect gemmae from plants that aren't packed too tightly. The rows look kind of unattractive, though - I'll usually save some extras to scatter randomly in smaller pots, so I can have some of those charming little clumps of plants. If it's your first time growing them, though, I think it might be advisable to spread them thinly so that your first generation has minimal competition. Once you're drowning in gemmae it'll be easier to do whatever is aesthetically pleasing.
~Joe
 
  • #12
Thanks for all the info fiolks!
I feel well armed for my first attempt at gemmae germination.
I have a "Gaurdman" brand, 4 tier indoor greenhouse on order. The lights I had left over from the pet store did not survive the 8 years of storage here on the Coast:-(....looks like I am off to the next town to get to Home Depot for more lights this weekend.
No worries, I always have my Indoor Garden nursery that never sleeps, plenty of light in there.
 
  • #13
Hey Mark - what are some of the taller growing species besides the obvious D. scorpioides that you referred to that would be less amenable to transplanting? Perhaps a repot is in order if it is truly possible to dig a few kinds out without nuking their root systems.

Dichrosepala, enodes, lasiantha are more sensitive to transplant.
This topic keeps on popping up and many are talking about how sensitive this plants are but in reality it's just growers making mistakes. If you take enough soil with the roots there is no way the plant will feel the shock. I did not transplant every single specie so i can't really make a list...i find transplanting these small plants really annoing so i try not to do it too often. It's true, species like pulchella, omissa, roseana, paleacea and hibrids like Lake Badgerup, Carbarup, omissa and nitidula hibrids can take more abuse and survive even if most roots are removed.
One other important aspect is the time of year you may choose to do the transplant. If you do it during the hot summer months, when the growth is slown down, it may cause the plant to go into dormancy. If a plant without and established root system go dormant....well, take a guess what will happen.
 
  • #14
This year I spaced my Scorps a little further apart. About an inch or so. I also used deeper solo cups this year.
 
  • #15
OK

I got the gemmae planted.....however I am now crosseyed:0o:
I am off to the next town to get a lighted magnifier for the next round,
and some t8's or t5's for my new plant rack.:banana2:
 
  • #16
I got the gemmae planted.....however I am now crosseyed:0o:
I am off to the next town to get a lighted magnifier for the next round,
and some t8's or t5's for my new plant rack.:banana2:

LOL! There are magnifiers that you can wear like jewelers use that help. But I know what you mean!

:-))
 
  • #17
photo period?

Now that I have my gemmae on the ground. I have read through many posts but have yet to find how long of a period should the lights be left on them for "sprouting"????
At thisd time they are under lights 24/7. Thanks for any help here as always.

BTW, a 3.5X optivisor is on order. Much cheaper and more versatile than a desk clamp model I am too old of sight for much of that!
 
  • #18
Now that I have my gemmae on the ground. I have read through many posts but have yet to find how long of a period should the lights be left on them for "sprouting"????
At thisd time they are under lights 24/7. Thanks for any help here as always.

BTW, a 3.5X optivisor is on order. Much cheaper and more versatile than a desk clamp model I am too old of sight for much of that!


Currently mine run about 12 hours on/12 off.
 
Back
Top