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Thread: Sundew Woes

  1. #17
    Oh, the humanity!! TheFury's Avatar
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    @boxofrain - My rack is covered on four sides (front, back, left, right) with mylar and five sides (front, back, left, right, and top) with two layers of 40% shade cloth. So it's pretty open on the top of the rack. But I actually have not tried facing the fan upwards to exhaust the hot air out of the top of the rack. Maybe I should pick up a second fan so one can be drawing cool air in the side and the other can be exhausting the warm air out the top.

    @CPlantaholic - thanks for that very thorough post. It's good to know that an immediate increase up to 16 hours will not harm my plants. I just changed it this morning - why wait! What got me about your post is how you mentioned your D. nitidula x pulchella was super sensitive to water under a 10-hour photoperiod. Mine is too... it looks like it's melting!

    Also, I broke out my tape measure and measured the distance from my tubes to the soil in my pots for real this time instead of eyeballing it. The lights are about 4.5" above the soil line in most of my pots. I would move them even closer, but the tops of my D. binata, D. capensis, a more mature D. indica, and my S. purpurea are within a centimeter of the tubes and I don't want them to start touching.

    I will also cut back on feeding until they color up some more. I've pretty much been feeding each leaf as soon as it turns dewy thinking that some food would snap the plant out of it. Mind you this was only every few weeks since not that many of my leaves were very dewy, but I'll hold off for another few days or weeks; however long it takes.

    I am absolutely shocked to hear that misting is bad for the plants! That would explain a lot of things. So I should really only ever be misting my Nep and maybe my Utrics. But to clarify, if I'm top-watering my plants only, misting for the purposes of top-watering is OK, right? It's just the combination of bottom-watering and then misting on top of already-saturated soil that's bad news?

    Thanks again to everyone for their very informative replies.

  2. #18
    wicked good plants! Presto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFury View Post
    I am absolutely shocked to hear that misting is bad for the plants! That would explain a lot of things. So I should really only ever be misting my Nep and maybe my Utrics. But to clarify, if I'm top-watering my plants only, misting for the purposes of top-watering is OK, right? It's just the combination of bottom-watering and then misting on top of already-saturated soil that's bad news?
    (Going off your grow list...) Nepenthes ventricosa should be just fine without misting. Utrics too. I think you might be...a Misting addict. It's all going to be okay man...put down the spray bottle and just walk away. We're all friends and we're here for you.

    (I'm a former misting addict myself. It's kinda fun in an odd way but there really are very few CPs that actually need it.)
    -Emily

  3. #19
    eou812's Avatar
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    So you have been misting your Sundewdews? If so that is like misting your eyes that is what it feels like to sundews.

  4. #20
    CPlantaholic's Avatar
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    Sounds good. When I top-water my plants, I usually gently pour distilled water directly into the top of the pot, letting the water flow through. It would be much faster than misting, if you are able to access the pots. Anymore, I've ended up only top-watering my sundews in my bigger tray at home once every 3+ months or so...just to make sure minerals aren't building up. But you'll find that if you keep your D. aliciae pot on the drier side, the humic acids will have less of a tendency to form, and top-watering won't be the sole requirement for ridding the plant of the humic acid build-up.

    As for your set-up, are you surrounding all the sides so that you don't see the lights at night, or something? I haven't been able to get any mylar yet, and just have open air on all sides of my tray (edit-forgot to mention that I raised the fixtures up for this picture- normally they're much closer):


    As long as the lights are as close as you described, mylar isn't really needed. But it certainly can help if the lights are further away, judging by the results from other growers. I can't really talk though, since I've never tried it, myself.
    Last edited by CPlantaholic; 01-20-2011 at 02:11 PM.
    Visit The Sundew Grow Guides: http://www.growsundews.com
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    Happy Growing!

  5. #21
    Oh, the humanity!! TheFury's Avatar
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    @Presto - Yes, it seems that I am an addict of various bad habits when it comes to CP cultivation. My last big fix was humidity domes. I guess misting is my new poison. I wonder what's next...

    @eou - Well, if my eyes were crusted with as much humic acid as my sundews are, then I imagine a nice spritz with pure RO filtered water might feel pretty nice

    @CPlantaholic - so you use the tray method for the most part except for a quarterly top-watering? Hey, if it works for you, I'll start that system right away. I do have all sides of my rack surrounded so more light doesn't escape. This grow rack is in my study, and being that my girlfriend is a student right now, I wanted to keep it so that she doesn't need to work directly under the lights of time square! I also don't want my landlord getting sketched out because I have all these bright lights on even when I'm not home. But, since it's not necessary, I'll probably just raise the flaps until someone needs to study in that room.

    I always liked your setup because you can raise and lower your lights quite easily. For me, I have to fidget with hooks and chains and hold my lights up precariously above my fragile plants while I re-hang the lights at a different height.

    EDIT: even just one day after raising the photoperiod to 16 hours, I believe I see dewier leaves throughout my grow rack already. I think this might be the ticket!

  6. #22
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    What's the old proverb? "If the mountain will not come to Mahomet, Mahomet must go to the mountain.": Instead of lowering your lights elevate your plants. An overturned pot, cup or anything will do. It means individual trays or saucers on the raised pot but then if you're growing species with different watering requirements then you have to address that somehow anyways.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  7. #23
    Aristoloingulamata Dexenthes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Presto View Post
    (Going off your grow list...) Nepenthes ventricosa should be just fine without misting. Utrics too. I think you might be...a Misting addict. It's all going to be okay man...put down the spray bottle and just walk away. We're all friends and we're here for you.

    (I'm a former misting addict myself. It's kinda fun in an odd way but there really are very few CPs that actually need it.)
    I've never met a Nepenthes that didn't react well to misting.


    But dews, are a different story.
    LOOKING FOR: N. (argentii x bicalcarata) x {[(lingulata x edwardsiana) x (naga x hamata)] x [(klossii x undulatifolia) x (aristolochioides x rajah)]} Growlist: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=124586

  8. #24
    wicked good plants! Presto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dexenthes View Post
    I've never met a Nepenthes that didn't react well to misting.
    They may enjoy it, but many of them don't NEED it. For example, I never mist any of my highlanders or intermediates, and they're all doing well and pitchering:

    -Emily

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