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D. peltata question

After coming out of dormancy, when will it start to stalk?

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Your plants look like they need more light
 
Some years mine don't. I always thought that meant they were dying but they keep managing to come back... My D. gigantea crapped out extra early this year though, and I fear the worst.
~Joe
 
hmm.. think it may be caused by the conditions? The lack of climbing I mean..
 
how old are they? Did they start as a plant, a tuber, or seeds? i have seedlings started this year and some of them are starting to make a stem. i have some that were started last year again from seeds and a hand full have started to bolt, but the rest haven't. Not sure if there is an environmental cue that tells them to go, might be more a size of the tuber.....

MTF
 
Not sure on the age.. I got them as tubers though.
 
as long as they are not dieing back i would not worry. i think the first year they are sort of touchy when transplanted (tubers). Keep um green and well fed for as long as you can. Then next year hope for the best. i think it is mostly a critical temperature that tells them to go dormant in addition to the change in day length. Least that is what I have inferred based on some keeping leaves all summer long at my place....
 
You also have to feed them like a teenage boy!
 
i thought the stalks form upon maturity...
 
  • #11
The plant I have from seed (hitch-hiker) formed a stem the first year. That's how I was able to identify it.
 
  • #12
Depending on the subspecies of D. peltata, it can form a climbing stem as early as the first season or as late as four years. However, there is a caveat to that and that is that those time frames only apply to plants grown ideally.

A plant that is grown under sub-optimal conditions will grow as a rosette almost indefinitely. I had one pot stay rosetted for 6 years while its sister pot grown under my tuberous set-up broke 45cm their second season (yes, I actually used to purposely grow some of my plants poorly to see what would happen to them.)
 
  • #13
Hey mass! I'm assuming those are the D. peltata i sent you. Mine are already forming their stems to give you a reference. I think the first one started in late December.
 
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  • #14
So, not to hijack, but my D. gigantea only put out two little sprouts this year, and they died before the leaves even really started to unfurl. Last year was also a bad year for them; I put them under T5s when stems emerged and I guess burned them before they had a chance to really get going. '09 was spectacular though - they got like three feet tall! I guess now I'm just worried that I've done something wrong and they won't come back. I repotted in late summer and when I did my biggest gigantea tuber had some little root nubs on it, one of which I broke, despite best efforts.
So, anyways, back to the present. My other tuberous dews are doing OK, but gigantea seems to have had a false start, or maybe quit early. X( Should I let it get dry again, or just keep giving it the same conditions as my other tuberous pots? My temperatures are right to make my highland Neps plenty happy. I moved them away from my warmer light sources just in case, but I'm not sure that will be enough.
I seem to remember gigantea getting a late start in the past. Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill? This was one of my favorite plants, any help would be much appreciated.
~Joe
 
  • #15
Hey mass! Im assuming those are the peltata i sent you. Mine are already forming their stems to give you a reference. I think the first one started in late december.

Yes sir.. 3 more actually came up since that pic was taken. Curious, just how many plants can form from a single tuber? This makes 5 plants from 2 tubers thus far..
 
  • #16
A plant that is grown under sub-optimal conditions will grow as a rosette almost indefinitely. QUOTE]

This may seem like a dumb question, but what would be considered sub-optimal to this species?
 
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  • #17
When I think of "sub-optimal", I think - dark when it needs light, dry when it needs wet, wet when it needs dry, hot when it needs cool, cool when it needs hot, too much nutrition when it can't absorb it (no leaves), not enough nutrients when it can absorb them (has plenty of trapping leaves), etc.
 
  • #18
I understand that in a general sense, but specifically to this species, what would that be? I know that it needs a lot of light and a lot of food, as well as relatively cool temps so that it doesn't go dormant. Anything else? I have D. peltata and D. auriculata seedlings and hope to graduate from these to others eventually
 
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  • #19
For me, Drosera auriculata and Drosera peltata were very forgiving for tuberous species. I never really let them dry out completely and they continued to cycle through dormant tuber, rosette and upright stems and flowers for many years. I'm guessing that Pyro is referring to a lack of good lighting as the factor most likely to permit continued rosette formation/persistence without progressing to upright stem production and flowering.
 
  • #20
I hear ya. I'm hoping someday to try D. squamosa and D. zonaria.
 
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