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Thread: Young Graomogolensis Help

  1. #9
    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    K ill go with the clear cup for now. I wonder if out doors would work..


    Um, im not good with humidity covering stuff, when do i air it out?!
    Last edited by LeafKirby; 04-06-2011 at 04:48 PM.

  2. #10
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    Late fall to early spring on the windowsill the day temps are from 62-72F with a night drop of 5-10 degrees. Average day temp around 66F. Relative humidity from 30-90%, average is 40%. 4-6 hours direct sunlight.

    Outdoors late spring to early fall - day temperatures from 70-92F with a night drop of 10-20 degrees. Average day temp is probably around 72F. Humidity is about the same. Sunlight about the same. The outdoor space is covered where as the windowsill is not which is why there is less sunlight outdoors even though the daylight hours are longer.

    Tall pots with a mixture of Chilean long fiber sphagnum and perlite - 40/60 with a topping of live sphagnum moss. Pure long fiber sphagnum seems to work just as well. Top watered daily. Seldom left with standing water in the tray.

    I have yet to find what the minimum temperature this species will tolerate. I've not exposed it to air temperatures below 45F. My experience with other South American species (i.e. D. villosa, and D. roraimae) is that air temperatures below 45F is fatal to them. They may limp along for up to a year but eventually die.

    You can usually find Chilean long fiber sphagnum moss at Lowe's (and sometimes Home Depot) sold as "Orchid Moss" (be sure to read the label to make sure it is sphagnum). It may be squirreled away with the orchid food and planters instead of the general planting/potting materials.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

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    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    Sounds like watering would be my main problem, then the media. Grrr, in the mean time these super small ants keep sneaking through the window sill, can they be feed.

  4. #12
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    They don't seem to mind standing water either. I just don't grow my "parent" plants like that. The pups I'm propagating are in pure sphagnum moss and are kept very wet. But then they were raised that way to begin with which might make a difference.

    Root disturbance does not seem to be fatal to this species as it may be with some South Americans such as D. meristocaulis but it can take them several weeks to get back on track after being repotted. Two to four weeks seems average. I've even snapped off the root and had them bounce back after about two months. And often new growth from the root.
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    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    Sorry for being a little buggy, this should be last question. About when should i start feeding it?

  6. #14
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    Once it starts consistently producing dew you can start feeding it. Just be sure to check for fungus/mold on the food remains. The moment you see any fungus or mold, remove the remains with a small water color paint brush or fine tweezers. If you catch it quick enough you shouldn't need to disinfect with a fungicide or diluted alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.

    If the glands have been dry for too long they will never start to produce secretions and you have to wait for the new leaves.

    This species produces relatively large drops of dew so it is quite obvious when the plant is sufficiently "happy".

    Here are some of my "pups". I just feed them the day or so before. It is interesting to note that the fed leaves on the three largest plants towards the top have turned dark red. This is especially notable on the largest plant towards the middle. I've often observed this "blush" on Dionaea muscipula leaves soon after feeding too.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 04-06-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice! I can't believe it,but it actually looks a lot Better this morning.

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    LeafKirby's Avatar
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    Looks like the humidity killed the plant.

    ;/

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