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Young Graomogolensis Help

Help, I have a very young D. Gram, and unfortunately I put in it the wrong type of Sphagnum moss half a month ago. I noticed that, but the only type of available moss i had was Mosser Lee. The plant started to retrospective and even dew started coming back, but the new head turned tight before it grew outwards. I did notice that I hadn't watered it in three days, but it still had a little water its tray. I'm not sure what just happened, but it did have a funky smell when I was changing the water. Ill post pics ASAP.
2m6rc4n.jpg
2q20llx.jpg

Apparently, Mosser Lee likes to grow random plants.
 
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i'll ask a few questions:
1) what are your humidity levels?
2) what are your temp levels?
3) what are your light levels?

when the growth point turns tight like that, it is very likely that your humidity levels are very low, it also could point to unfavorable temp conditions.

you should also avoid using the mosser lee LFS, the stuff is just such poor quality. try using the stuff sold as Orchid Moss from Lowes. if you can afford to, top dress the pot with live sphagnum, the sphagnum will act as a microclimate keeping high humidity for your plant as well as letting you know if your conditions are too dry.
 
Humdity upstairs is around 50, downstairs is in the 60s
Temperature is 75 upstairs 5 degree F drop, downstairs is 74, 12 degree F drop.
Light upstairs is direct 8hours indirect 3,downstairs is direct 2hours, shady 7 hours.
Air circulation is only upstairs.
 
yes. ditch the mosser lee moss. for media, i use 1:1 peat and sand (rinsed) then i use live sphag as a top dressing. i've also used live sphagnum moss only as well, both work fine, but live LFS seems to be better for larger specimens. i treat my graomo as a highland plant, mid to high 70s during the day, then 50s at night. it seems to appreciate it for the most part. ventilation is a plus, but not necessary. best bet is to grow downstairs, but you will need supplementary lighting--strongly suggest power compacts or t5s or T8s at 6700K. i have never heard of anyone growing graomogolensis successfully on a windowsill (which is what i believe you are using right now). you'd have better success growing them in a terrarium.
 
Do you think it can survive for another week before I can get supplies?
also, what's the youngest age I can attempt to propagate it?
 
Place a clear plastic cup over it to preserve humidity, that will help immensely. i wouldnt try anything with propagation, leaf or root, until the plant gets about an inch and a half in diameter---then again, if the plant is going to kick the bucket (yours still looks healthy) a hail-mary pass might be necessary.
 
I grow mine on the windowsill in winter and outdoors during the summer.
 
holy shnaps. i stand corrected then. :blush:
would you mind sharing your specs then NaN? im sure you'd be more help to him than i would be, since the both of you are growing them in similar conditions. i'd love to learn as well.
 
K ill go with the clear cup for now. I wonder if out doors would work..


Um, im not good with humidity covering stuff, when do i air it out?!
 
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  • #10
Late fall to early spring on the windowsill the day temps are from 62-72F with a night drop of 5-10 degrees. Average day temp around 66F. Relative humidity from 30-90%, average is 40%. 4-6 hours direct sunlight.

Outdoors late spring to early fall - day temperatures from 70-92F with a night drop of 10-20 degrees. Average day temp is probably around 72F. Humidity is about the same. Sunlight about the same. The outdoor space is covered where as the windowsill is not which is why there is less sunlight outdoors even though the daylight hours are longer.

Tall pots with a mixture of Chilean long fiber sphagnum and perlite - 40/60 with a topping of live sphagnum moss. Pure long fiber sphagnum seems to work just as well. Top watered daily. Seldom left with standing water in the tray.

I have yet to find what the minimum temperature this species will tolerate. I've not exposed it to air temperatures below 45F. My experience with other South American species (i.e. D. villosa, and D. roraimae) is that air temperatures below 45F is fatal to them. They may limp along for up to a year but eventually die.

You can usually find Chilean long fiber sphagnum moss at Lowe's (and sometimes Home Depot) sold as "Orchid Moss" (be sure to read the label to make sure it is sphagnum). It may be squirreled away with the orchid food and planters instead of the general planting/potting materials.
 
  • #11
Sounds like watering would be my main problem, then the media. Grrr, in the mean time these super small ants keep sneaking through the window sill, can they be feed.
 
  • #12
They don't seem to mind standing water either. I just don't grow my "parent" plants like that. The pups I'm propagating are in pure sphagnum moss and are kept very wet. But then they were raised that way to begin with which might make a difference.

Root disturbance does not seem to be fatal to this species as it may be with some South Americans such as D. meristocaulis but it can take them several weeks to get back on track after being repotted. Two to four weeks seems average. I've even snapped off the root and had them bounce back after about two months. And often new growth from the root.
 
  • #13
Sorry for being a little buggy, this should be last question. About when should i start feeding it?
 
  • #14
Once it starts consistently producing dew you can start feeding it. Just be sure to check for fungus/mold on the food remains. The moment you see any fungus or mold, remove the remains with a small water color paint brush or fine tweezers. If you catch it quick enough you shouldn't need to disinfect with a fungicide or diluted alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.

If the glands have been dry for too long they will never start to produce secretions and you have to wait for the new leaves.

This species produces relatively large drops of dew so it is quite obvious when the plant is sufficiently "happy".

Here are some of my "pups". I just feed them the day or so before. It is interesting to note that the fed leaves on the three largest plants towards the top have turned dark red. This is especially notable on the largest plant towards the middle. I've often observed this "blush" on Dionaea muscipula leaves soon after feeding too.
_IGP0076.jpg
 
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  • #15
Thanks for the advice! I can't believe it,but it actually looks a lot Better this morning.
 
  • #16
Looks like the humidity killed the plant.

;/
 
  • #18
How big is the root? This species has a tendency to regrow from the roots.
 
  • #19
Its about the length half a worm
 
  • #20
Worms come in all sizes from microscopic to over 150 feet long.
 
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