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Thread: Tuberous Sundew Seedlings

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    biologyboy98's Avatar
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    Tuberous Sundew Seedlings

    Hello everyone, about a month ago, I sowed some D. peltata seeds and two days ago I noticed that they started sprouting. I have a few questions. Should I give them any special attention apart from the normal Drosera care and when should they go dormant?


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    Cthulhu138's Avatar
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    Keep them like any Drosera until they start showing signs of wanting to go dormant, usually April to June. Then just stop watering them completely until September or October.

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    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    You want to keep them as well fed as possible. The bigger they are when they go dormant the larger the tuber and the better chance of survival through dormancy. And beware that a premature hot spell (7 days or longer) could cause them to go dormant before they are ready. I've lost many a winter grower seedling due to 80 degree weather in Jan or Feb. The former D. peltata complex is much more forgiving about moisture conditions during dormancy than many of the other tuberous species. Some people get away with keeping the soil moist all year round.
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    Peltata dormancy isn't actually necessary, they are one of the most tropical (if not the) tuberous drosera out there, they are native from Victoria Au to India, and here in north QLD I grow many of mine (also my lunata) year round with temps from 8c in winter nights to 40c summer days, I find they like less sun than most drosera and more humidity, I feed my plants betta pellets and they flower 2-4 times a year, some of my tubers are 1cm and up across, and my plants are over 30cm, some over 40cm tall, however if you want.
    My seedlings mature rather fast, and I have both tropical and temperate varieties, don't over feed them or they WILL mould and rot, and a fluctuating water table works well, but never to high (even though wild plants here are flooded for a few months of the year), so if your worried about dormancy you can skip it, unlike most other tuberous drosera whom need it.

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    Cthulhu138's Avatar
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    I think it may depend on where the plants originated. The form of peltata I have will rot out if kept moist during dormancy. I've experimented with this several times with the same result. I always keep the main colony dry and have tried small groups of tubers in other pots with varying degrees of moisture, all have rotted. Unfortunately my plants did not come with location data to possibly confirm this. Another possibility may be that I have one of the forms formerly known as peltata. I know that the complex was revised and broken up into different species fairly recently.

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    It was broken up, the first step is to see if the plant has a basal rosset, e.g. lunata doesn't, but peltata does, the two plants lapse in range, and even grow together, however in my expeirnce lunata is much more resistant to heat and rot, but both can grow year round.
    I should also add that you shouldnt let them go dormant until they have enough energy stored, fish food, tiny crickets and fruit flies work well, but in small amounts.

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    Cthulhu138's Avatar
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    They do have a basal rosette. Mine are always well fed and I don't let them go dormant until it's obvious that they want to go dormant.




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    Morphological evaluation of the Drosera peltata complex (Droseraceae)
    Robert Gibson, Barry J. Conn and Jeremy J. Bruhl
    Australian Systematic Botany, 2012, 25, 49–80
    http://dx.doi.org/10.1071/SB11030

    Drosera lunata Buch.-Ham ex DC. Prodromus Systematis
    Naturalis Regni Vegetabilis 1: 319 (1824);

    Tuberous herb, usually olive-green; tuber ovoid, up to 9mm
    diameter by 5mm tall; surface white to red, often in a papery
    sheath; vertical stolon 2–6 cm long. Stem erect, usually simple,
    sometimes shortly branched, 9–50 cm long, glabrous. Leaves,
    often in a flat basal rosette and cauline; basal leaves 3–27, the
    lamina ovate to elliptic, 1.5–5mm long by 3–7mm wide on a
    linear petiole 4–14mm long, by up to 0.8mm wide; cauline
    leaves alternate, the lamina crescentic, 0.7–3mm long by
    1–4.5mm wide, with acute angles, on petiole 1–16mm long.
    Inflorescence a 1-sided raceme 1–10-flowered; peduncle
    usually 0.5–3 cm long; pedicels 1–12mm long. Sepals ovate,
    elliptic, rhombic or ovate, 1.4–4.2mm long by 0.6–1.8mmwide,
    glabrous with the margin entire to serrulate, or denticulate, to
    partially to fully fimbriate with hairs up to 0.6mm long. Petals
    obovate to cuneate, 1–6mm long by 1–3.2mm wide, white or
    rarely pink. Styles 3, 0.4–1mm long, divided into a total of
    ~15–30 cylindrical segments. Seeds 0.3–0.6mm long by
    0.3mm maximum diameter, ovoid with a shallowly reticulated
    surface. Flowering throughout the year.

    Habitat
    This species occurs over a great altitudinal range, from sea
    level in subtropical locations, to elevations of at least 3600m
    altitude in tropical mountains (Hara 1966; Balakrishnan 1981;
    Zhang 1982; Grierson and Long 1984; Naithani 1984; Larsen
    1987; Amaratunga 1988); with one herbarium specimen
    (R. Strachey s.n., anno 1867, K), possibly collected from
    around 6000-m altitude at Jagersar, Uttarakhand, in the Indian
    Himalayas.

    Notes
    This morphologically variable species can be a short, self-supporting
    plant (often with a well developed basal rosette) or
    can form slender plants up to 70 cm tall that are supported by
    surrounding plants. This species can grow any time of year
    when soil moisture conditions are optimum for growth.
    Bracteole shape and margin and sepal margin are highly
    variable, with the latter varying from entire to denticulate to
    partially or fully fimbriate. Plants have been collected in flower
    in every month of the year across the range. Unlike most
    tuberous Drosera species, plants of D. lunata often grow in
    summer and flower in autumn, at least partly in response to the
    recurring wet season.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 10-14-2013 at 05:12 PM.
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