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Thread: All Things Petiolaris

  1. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by bluemax View Post
    What it all comes down to for me is the petiolaris sundews need all the regular things sundews need: relatively high light levels, lots of water and fairly standard Drosera soil. But what they need besides is humidity in the 70%+ levels and temperatures that never go below the 70's F., unless you are intentionally inducing dormancy. How you produce these conditions can vary a lot. In truly tropical climates they can be grown out of doors.
    It seems to me like they are some of the most difficult Drosera to grow. They are like the Heliamphora of Drosera. I have a lot to learn until I can grow them. Could lowland Nepenthes be grown in these conditions? Your setup is so involved that I feel it wouldn't make sense for me to set it up for one plant or just a few. The night drop from a Mediterranean climate wouldn't help.

  2. #58
    rcl27's Avatar
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    I would assume most lowlanders could be grown in these conditions. Just make sure they are more of the swamp variety.

    My falconeri was doing well in my terrarium, but once I finally figured out to get some lower temps for the other plants (low 60's) the falconeri took a plunge. It went from about 1 1/2" wide to almost in dormancy. I ordered a few high ceiling grow trays and have since moved my falconeri, ampullaria, and bicalcarata into the closet. Temps easily get into the 80's with the 4 T8's and, since it is in a closet, it rarely drops below 75 at night. They have been in there for about 2 weeks and all three plants have been kicking ***. The falconeri shot back up from a diameter of about 1/2 inch and is almost back up to its previous size.

    So when they say don't let it drop below 65F, that is not a suggestion lol.

  3. #59
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tanukimo View Post
    It seems to me like they are some of the most difficult Drosera to grow. They are like the Heliamphora of Drosera. I have a lot to learn until I can grow them. Could lowland Nepenthes be grown in these conditions? Your setup is so involved that I feel it wouldn't make sense for me to set it up for one plant or just a few. The night drop from a Mediterranean climate wouldn't help.
    'Difficult' is relative, I guess. I've got a few species of sundews that keep me asking "what do they want?" For now, those are difficult for me. With petiolaris 'dews they want warmth and if you give it to them, along with the other standard sundew requirements, they are hardy and fast-growing.

    I find it a bit embarrassing that my setup is complex, and it is, as I just don't see that as essential. Some of this is due to growing warmth-needing plants in a cold room. On the other hand I grow in a 10 gallon aquarium tank and I really don't have a lot of money tied up in my set up.
    Last edited by bluemax; 04-25-2014 at 11:50 AM.
    - Mark

  4. #60
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcl27 View Post
    I would assume most lowlanders could be grown in these conditions. Just make sure they are more of the swamp variety.

    My falconeri was doing well in my terrarium, but once I finally figured out to get some lower temps for the other plants (low 60's) the falconeri took a plunge. It went from about 1 1/2" wide to almost in dormancy. I ordered a few high ceiling grow trays and have since moved my falconeri, ampullaria, and bicalcarata into the closet. Temps easily get into the 80's with the 4 T8's and, since it is in a closet, it rarely drops below 75 at night. They have been in there for about 2 weeks and all three plants have been kicking ***. The falconeri shot back up from a diameter of about 1/2 inch and is almost back up to its previous size.

    So when they say don't let it drop below 65F, that is not a suggestion lol.
    Nice that you grow Nepenthes low-landers and petiolaris 'dews together. It seems like it should be possible but until someone actually does it...

    As for the minimum temps I have to wonder if there is anyone who grows petiolaris sundews who hasn't thrown their plants into dormancy, or near-dormancy, early on. I lost an amazing all-red, seedgrown D. dilatato-petiolaris that way.
    - Mark

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    Here's the off-shoot on the paradoxa I was talking about.





    After I remove the plantlet I will raise the soil level on the mother plant to cover up that stem from when it had low light levels.
    Last edited by Robster_24; 04-26-2014 at 10:24 PM.

  6. #62
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    That's a nice-looking plant. I would let that off-shoot develop more. When it looks more like an adult plant, albeit with undeveloped leaves, it will be ready to remove and root. I wouldn't worry about the stem if it were me as long as the plant seems solidly supported. Paradoxa get pretty long stems with time!
    - Mark

  7. #63
    Tropical Fish Enthusiast jimscott's Avatar
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  8. #64
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    @jimscott - these are leaf pullings? I like the close-up of all the hairs.
    - Mark

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