TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
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Can I begin a motion to sticky this thread? I think it makes significant headway in displaying and teaching about the optimal care of this group of Drosera.
I use T5's, 4 tubes, a mix of 6,500k cools and 3,00k warms. I will be upgrading the cools to 10,000k soon. The lights are about 12" above the lowest growing plants.
Do you use anything to cool them? I just found out that my fan was lowering the output of the T5 bulbs a lot when I was trying to blow hot air away from my plants (where my tuberous sundew is). I may just put a piece of plexiglass between my plants and the light fixture to shield them from some heat.
Mine are in a basement too, but it doesn't get quite cold enough to stay in the good range of 45-70. Temps get a few degrees too warm without the fan. Also, I finally repotted my ramellosa into a 3:1 sand to peat mix, in a pot that is slightly deeper than the previous. I noticed something odd when trying to get information on my why my D. ramellosa is so etiolated when my other sundews are doing fine under the same light and even coloring up well. I noticed that the D. ramellosa Devin got from California Carnivores (where I got mine) is also really thin: Tuberous sundews: A Beginning |Sundews Etc.
Just the fact that there is U.bisquamata growing in there is telling me that these plants from CC did not get a proper dormancy. This could have something to do with their appearance.
In 2008 I bought tuberous drosera in seed from triffid nurseries. It was kept at room temperature and dry. what does anybody think about viability. does anybody think that GA3, smoke or warmth will break dormancy if they are alive? I have read that byblis can last a while and germination after 10y. I would like to plant it all in 60 sand/ 40 peat mix. thanks N.B.
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