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  • #21
D.gigantea has always been the last species to wake up for me. It's also the only species I've grown where the tubers and plants get smaller than the previous year no matter how much I feed them. I've kept them exactly the same way as all the others and there's something about the conditions it doesn't like but, I think I've got it figured out (in theory anyway). This species is a bit different than most other species in a few different aspects though, most notably....

A. D.gigantea grows on the margins of often permanent to semi permanent swamps and other bodies of water.
B. It grows deeper than any other species, often right down to the water table.
C. This species does not produce a papery covering on the dormant tuber to protect it from dessication.

Given all this information, I suspect that D.gigantea actually prefers a slightly damp dormancy. I'm getting a half dozen or so this year to try different things on so I can really nail down it's cultivation. I'll post my findings in this thread as well as my photo thread.

D.hookeri is indeed among the easiest species to grow. It doesn't even always go dormant in more tropical conditions if kept moist all year. Perfect starter species.

Awesome--thanks! Very helpful. I was slightly worried that the D. gigantea was sluggish to emerge. Good that you're backing me up in that observation.

Hate to keep asking questions, but just curious: what do you feed your gigantea? Certain nutrients are tied to tuber growth in other (non-CP) species and I'd like to play around with my plant's diet.

Thanks again for all the info!
 
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  • #22
I feed all my tuberous Drosera with Maxsea fertilizer but they also catch small spiders, gnats and other household basement bugs.
 
  • #23
Very nice guide! Thank you! For the D. erythrorhiza squamosa, you had some bigger particles of rock or something on top of the soil?
 
  • #24
Very nice guide! Thank you! For the D. erythrorhiza squamosa, you had some bigger particles of rock or something on top of the soil?

That is the laterite growing form of the plant so, after several years of growing it my my standard sand mix I decided to put it into a heavy laterite mix. I have seen absolutely no benefit or detriment from doing so. I won't be wasting good laterite on them in the future.
 
  • #25
Johnny,
What are your thoughts on pot size. Are the simple 5x6 fine or would you go deeper?
It seems that with the rosettes you could almost use tree seedling pots. I've been looking at those. They are around 3x9, but if unnessary I'll stick with the common ones.
 
  • #26
I actually use the 2.38'x 5.0" Anderson Band Pots for small or single specimens and they work just fine. For the rest, I use standard 5"x6" pots. The tubers of many species will eventually work themselves out the holes on the bottom of the pots over time but, since I dig mine up every summer to check on them this isn't an issue for me. If any species could possibly benefit from very deep pots it would be D.gigantea. They can be found down to 3' underground.
 
  • #27
Thanks for answering my questions!

Last one. For the erects, do you use anything for them to anchor themselves upon? Any benifit that can be seen?
 
  • #28
Thanks for answering my questions!

Last one. For the erects, do you use anything for them to anchor themselves upon? Any benifit that can be seen?

Also curious. Additionally, which species are most prone to cement themselves to other things?
 
  • #29
Thanks for answering my questions!

Last one. For the erects, do you use anything for them to anchor themselves upon? Any benifit that can be seen?

No Problem !

Well, the "erect" species like D.menziesii, D.gigantea, D.modesta etc... are pretty much self supporting. It's the "scrambling" species like D.subhirtella, D.erythrogyne, D.intricata etc.... that really benefit from a support stake. When a stake is placed in the pot, they will inevitably find it and wind their way around it. Without a support stake, the plants will find their way into other adjacent plants and get themselves hopelessly intertwined in the foliage making them impossible to untangle.
 
  • #30
Drosera aberrans


Drosera basifolia


Drosera magna


Drosera menziesii


Drosera modesta


Drosera ramellosa




Drosera rupicola


Drosera subhirtella


Drosera zigzagia
 
  • #31
Some nice plants ya got there, Johnny! A surprisingly large/robust flower spike on that ramellosa!
 
  • #32
It's actually got flowers starting at the ends of the other 2 growths as well as the central stalk.
 
  • #34
Great video Mach ! Thanks for sharing !
 
  • #35
I realize I am a bit late to this party but I am not on here that frequently anymore. I would like to make a small comment

C. This species does not produce a papery covering on the dormant tuber to protect it from dessication.

This information is not correct, D. gigantea does indeed produce the papery coating. It is however, very thin and very easily displaced so you likely are not seeing it because it is shed/lost when you are unearthing your tubers.


Your assessment that it prefers a damper dormancy is correct. You will have better luck with this species if you can provide DEEP pots as they tend to hold moisture well in the lower regions. I used to use tap root pots designed for seedling trees - 10cm x 10cm x 50cm. I would still have to repot every other year because the tubers would drop out the bottom (which is very bad if you are trying to keep them damp as the tubers cannot tolerate standing in water even for the very short time frames I used)


It is nice to see others successfully working with this group of Drosera. I had nearly 40 species/forms before I moved and had to terminate my collection back in 2010.
 
  • #36
I realize I am a bit late to this party but I am not on here that frequently anymore. I would like to make a small comment



This information is not correct, D. gigantea does indeed produce the papery coating. It is however, very thin and very easily displaced so you likely are not seeing it because it is shed/lost when you are unearthing your tubers.


Your assessment that it prefers a damper dormancy is correct. You will have better luck with this species if you can provide DEEP pots as they tend to hold moisture well in the lower regions. I used to use tap root pots designed for seedling trees - 10cm x 10cm x 50cm. I would still have to repot every other year because the tubers would drop out the bottom (which is very bad if you are trying to keep them damp as the tubers cannot tolerate standing in water even for the very short time frames I used)


It is nice to see others successfully working with this group of Drosera. I had nearly 40 species/forms before I moved and had to terminate my collection back in 2010.

With limited cold protection in winter I have hope that tuberous Drosera are totally doable in Georgia. Cannot wait to try more species outside!
 
  • #37
So excited to try these.
 
  • #38
With limited cold protection in winter I have hope that tuberous Drosera are totally doable in Georgia. Cannot wait to try more species outside!


As long as you can keep them from freezing, they should do just fine.


It is nice to see others successfully working with this group of Drosera. I had nearly 40 species/forms before I moved and had to terminate my collection back in 2010.


I'm up to almost 40 species myself. I've done very well these and they're among my favorite carnivorous plants.


These are the species I'm currently working with:


D. abberans
D. aff. stolonifera - Mini Hills Form
D. auriculata
D. basifolia
D. erythrorhiza
D. gigantea
D. graniticola
D. hirsuta
D. hookeri
D. humilis
D. lowriei - "Giant - Blood Red MidVeins"
D. lowriei - Type
D. magna
D. menziesii
D. modesta
D. monatha
D. peltata
D. platypoda
D. porrecta - Northern Form
D. porrecta - Southern Form
D. prophylla
D. prostrata
D. prostratoscaposa
D. purpurescens
D. ramellosa
D. rupicola
D. squamosa - Sand Growing Form
D. squamosa - Laterite Growing Form
D. subhirtella
D. tubaestylis
D. zigzagia
D. zonaria - Large Form


So excited to try these.


Soon Eric, very soon......
 
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  • #39
Thats an incredible list Johnny! Do you grow yours indoors or in a heated GH?
 
  • #40
Very nice Johnny! Might have to try some of those one of these days
 
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