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Thread: Drosera graomogolensis questions

  1. #9
    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    For me it seems as though the line between success and failure falls where the humidity drops below 60% for long periods of time. When I can maintain 70% consistently I see even better results. It is often said that sundews don't require increased humidity to grow and this is true with many species. This one and D. latifolia seem like exceptions to me.

    'Good looking plant, nimbulan!
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  2. #10
    Nauz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimbulan View Post
    Here is my plant currently. Last summer when the photoperiod was longer the leaves were completely red.

    What a beautiful looking plant. Maybe it's shocked due to who I bought them off of shipping bare root wrapped in a moist paper towel. I had one back in 2012 before I enlisted but gave it away. That one came potted and used same conditions with no issues. Wish I started it from seed but I can't find any. Do these even produce seeds?


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  3. #11
    nimbulan's Avatar
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    I was lucky enough to be able to purchase this plant locally so it didn't go through any shipping stress. I don't know how frequently they flower or if they are self-compatible. I've certainly never seen D. graomogolensis seeds for sale.

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    hcarlton's Avatar
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    I've heard that yes, D. graomogolensis is self-compatible, but they are not prolific seed-setters nor do they flower regularly it seems. Also, I've heard reports that this plant prefers growing in sphagnum moss mixes if temperatures get warm (my own plant seems to concur), and I try to avoid feeding solid foods to my South American plants as the leaves seem to go bad easily. Liquid fertilizers are better tolerated.
    Everything has a reason, whether big or small. Never underestimate the power of what is or is not.
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  5. #13
    Nauz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    I've heard that yes, D. graomogolensis is self-compatible, but they are not prolific seed-setters nor do they flower regularly it seems. Also, I've heard reports that this plant prefers growing in sphagnum moss mixes if temperatures get warm (my own plant seems to concur), and I try to avoid feeding solid foods to my South American plants as the leaves seem to go bad easily. Liquid fertilizers are better tolerated.
    That could be what happened to me then, plant is young. Could have used too much beta pellet sprinkles on the plant and bam shocked the plant a bit. The plant still keeps growing deformed burnt looking leaves but just now noticed one nice green looking leaf. Maybe it will recover, I definitely won't use the beta food again and I'll try liquid fertilizer instead. Do you recommend orchid or some other stuff?


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    Swagalotus's Avatar
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    I repotted my gmall grao yesterday into 100% milled sphagnum. I think the mix I had it in either held too much water, or there was an air bubble in the media that made the root tip dry up since the root didn't look like it did when I first recieved it and potted it. Hopefully it will do better now.

  7. #15
    hcarlton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nauz View Post
    That could be what happened to me then, plant is young. Could have used too much beta pellet sprinkles on the plant and bam shocked the plant a bit. The plant still keeps growing deformed burnt looking leaves but just now noticed one nice green looking leaf. Maybe it will recover, I definitely won't use the beta food again and I'll try liquid fertilizer instead. Do you recommend orchid or some other stuff?


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    Personally, I use the Maxsea fertilizer on everything, but any good orchid fertilizer probably works....
    Everything has a reason, whether big or small. Never underestimate the power of what is or is not.
    There is far more to everything than meets the eye.
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  8. #16
    Nauz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    Personally, I use the Maxsea fertilizer on everything, but any good orchid fertilizer probably works....
    After you dilute it, how do you personally administer the fertilizer?


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