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Thread: Sad spiralis after repotting

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    Benurmanii's Avatar
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    Sad spiralis after repotting

    So I already asked about root shock on another forum, but since I'm new to repotting Drosera (except for a D. capensis, which I probably could have stomped on underfoot and still not have set-back), I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced problems with repotting D. spiralis or other SA sundews. I always thought they had hardy roots and weren't sensitive to repotting.

    I did struggle a bit to get the roots into the sphagnum moss when I repotted my D. spiralis, since most of the media around the roots fell away. Could that be a source of the leaf die-off?

    This photo was taken right after repotting, on the 8th of February.


    This photo was taken yesterday. I want to note that there is a leaf that isn't clearly visible in the photo (it's right behind the newest leaf) which was dying off before repotting, which has now ceased browning. Odd.

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    Lotsa blue bluemax's Avatar
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    Almost any sundew can experience a loss of leaves and vigor when being repotted. I find it is more the exception to find a plant that has no losses when having the old soil removed from the roots. The vast majority of a plant's root surface area is in root hairs which are almost completely lost when it is bare-rooted. Of course you can remove a plant with an intact root ball and plant it that way in order to avoid transplanting shock.
    - Mark

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    Benurmanii's Avatar
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    Thanks for that info on the root hairs, Mark. I plan to simply cut away the pot when I repot my other spiralis, in order to keep the media intact. Currently I'm worried that the last leaf will die off before it recovers.

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    w03's Avatar
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    A quick summary of your conditions may also help, just in case there's anything else possibly amiss. (Though it seems that your other plants are healthy). In general there's probably not much to do besides keep optimal conditions and hope for the best.
    "Potential has a shelf life." -Margaret Atwood
    My meager growlist

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    Benurmanii's Avatar
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    Temps are usually 70-72 for most of the day (in the mornings it stays a bit cooler, around 68 and 69). 16 hour photoperiod.
    Humidity mostly hovers around 86, but can drop to 76 or stay in the 90's depending how much I let the lids vent (I've kept the lids mostly on in order to keep the humidity high currently).

    Oh, and there is usually a 9-7 degree drop at night. I'm not sure the exact drop, as I'm not up in the middle of the night to check (for a while in the winter it would get a nice 10-11 degree drop). Will probably start cracking the windows in my basement once nights outside are a little warmer to get the nice drop for my Neps.
    Last edited by Benurmanii; 02-25-2016 at 01:34 PM.

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    Bernumanii,

    I have too, struggled with D. spiralis, recently. Besides the good transplantation tips, that you have received, in this thread, I would emphasize
    drier than usual Drosera watering, but humidity kept very high. I now grow D. spiralis very successfully, in a Heliamphora tank, but not sitting in constant tray-method water.

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    Benurmanii's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip. I don't use tray method for any of my plants that are in my highland tank. I'll make sure to keep the sphagnum damp but not too wet. Humidity stays pretty high in my tank so that is not too much of a concern.

    In regards to the plant, I believe it is starting to settle in, as the most recent leaf, which was turning red on the tip, has ceased to continue that action. I have high hopes that new growth shall come soon.

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    Swagalotus's Avatar
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    South american sundews tend to not like root disturbance. When I recieved my 3/4 inch grao and repotted it, the tentacles look fried for about a month. It is just now starting to grow again.

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