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Drosera adelae

  • #21
When i was growing this in tons, my original clone came from Clyde Bramblett, and after it multiplied and was divided and had plants growing out of the bottom of the pots...well you get the picture.
Anyway, some turned so dark and narrow-leafed they were purple, while others sitting right next to those were still green and some were red to orangish like Joseph's. These were all from the same plant. Maybe somebody can divide theirs and try some in peat, lf sphagnum, ect, since I did not really pay attention back then.
You really have to be a skeptic when you see some advertized as "all red" clone, as you never know.

Regards,

Joe
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  • #22
I grow 3 types. One is the typical starfish one, another has narrow lance shaped leaves that are consistently produced in varrying conditions, and the newest is a giant form. I have also heard of a pink and white flowered form.
 
  • #23
My D. adelae at home, growing under lower light conditions, are green.  My D. adelae at my office, growing in a west window, is a beautiful bronzy red.

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Not as lush and beautiful as Joseph's but shows the different coloration when grown under strong lighting.

If you'd like to see more color in your plants, try increasing the light.  
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  • #24
Pinguicula Man: Beautiful plant! someday, after winter, I hope mine goes from green to red - or orange. Wondering about your avatar, though.
 
  • #25
Jimscott

I believe his avatar is D. regia, not D. adelae.
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  • #26
<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>PlantAKiss,

Yes, you are correct. My current avatar is Drosera regia.</span>
 
  • #27
Great pics Joseph.  I have to repot both of my D. adelae and wonder if you would be so kinda as to suggest a media mix for them.  They live outdoors year round here in S. Florida.
Also I would like to know if you use the "tray" method.
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  • #28
<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>Yes, I use the tray method with most of my Drosera adelae. I use and have used many different media with Drosera adelae. I recommend using Sphagnum peat moss, alone, or as a major component of the media if you wish the plants to color up easily, or one with mostly LFS (Long Fiber Sphagnum) if you plan to keep them greener.</span>
 
  • #29
With regard to the avatar I was subtley referring to the fact that you have a butterwort forum name and a sundew avatar. A little irony. Also, I purchased one of those adelae in the plastic cube from Lowes. I believe the medium is the sphagmum peat. Mine is too big for the mini-terrarium cube, with its leaves touching the plastic. It has sent out three new plants (rhyzomes?). I tried transfering it to a wider container - a cut down gallon plastic milk container. It isn't happy with me right now. its leaves are drooping and I've lost some dew. Any suggestions?
 
  • #30
Keep the humidity up. Sundews will often become droopy and dewless after transplantation. I swear that D. adelae hates me though! Every time I transplant this plant, it dies a slow, torturous, mutated growth death
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!

Good luck to you, with this evil little plant!
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SF
 
  • #31
OMG, I think that is your best one yet! Gosh I luv your plant photos!... now if only my dews were large enough to photograph (up to a cm accross now, lol)
 
  • #32
Do I remember correctly about these adelae being grown open tray method? How does one keep the humidity up, with open tray? Are they in a greenhouse or is there a humidifyer?
 
  • #34
Darcie,

<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>I spent more than half a decade as "droseraman" on AOL, had to give up my AOL account, and decided "PinguiculaMan" sounded good too.</span>
 
  • #35
<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>Drosera adelae alert: If your plant has leaves that look stunted and your humidity is not well over 60% (100% of the time) it could be "spider mites" or even "cyclamen mites" affecting your plants. Plant parasitic mites are a more frequent occurrence than you might expect. It is frustrating that these nasty little creatures can actually get to our CP. I have had them affect nearly every type of CP from time to time. I use a frequent spritz of "cinnamon oil" 2-3 drops per ounce of water, which seems to offer good relief when used for several days in a row. Problem is the mite populations take off after we have had a rainy period, usually mid to late summer, then in late summer or early fall their host plants dry up and die. Guess what the mites do . . .

And, don't forget that Thrips can cause trouble too.</span>
 
  • #37
Mine is a typical Lowes / Botanical Wonders plant and went from the store to the lab window sill. Is it still susceptible?
 
  • #38
All plants can get pests, but were you live has a lot to do with it. If my memory is functional, you live in a desert region don't you pingman? Mites are super anoying in hot dry areas, but if you live in regions that get very cold every year like MI, you won't have near the trouble because mites are just less common here.
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