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Thread: How long does it take for Seeds to grow?

  1. #9

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    Thanks all for the help! It's appreciated!
    I can't wait, then i'll have one of each of the basic CPs ( VFT, Pitcher, Drosera, And a cobra lily&#33[img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img]
    [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img] Yey! [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Check out my Dionaea/Sarracenia/Drosera website:
    http://www.geocities.com/ashley_puk/index.html

  2. #10

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    VenusAshTrap, what exactly are you trying to germinate? Different species take different amounts of time. It also depends on how fresh the seed are and growing conditions.
    Statik2426

  3. #11

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    Never give up on a pot, at least not for several months! Petiolaris and tuberous species may take up to 1-3 years, and other species although not as demanding of patience as these often can produce surprises. My Drosera arcturi just germinated after 4-5 months. Generally, 2 weeks is considered fast indeed, and 4-6 weeks is not uncommon. Be sure that you do not top water or the seed will be buried, and give as close to 100% humidity as possible. Growing from seed demands patience. With more information on which species you are attempting I may have more detailed advice.
    "Grow More, Share More"

  4. #12

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    I really cannot think of the name, sorry! How do you get 100% humidity? I got 60% in my pool area, but I have to keep the pot air - tight because of all the dodgy chemicals you have to put into a swimming pool. (Especially Chlorine) I have a mini - greenhouse if that is any good, I've go it in there at the moment [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img]
    Check out my Dionaea/Sarracenia/Drosera website:
    http://www.geocities.com/ashley_puk/index.html

  5. #13

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    I start my Droserae seed in clear plastic cups. I use 2: the first has holes drilled (or melted) in the bottom. Water is placed in the undrilled cup, the cup with holes gets a 50/50 mix peat/sand to the rim, and sits inside the cup with the water. I aim at a moist but not soggy substrate. This whole unit is then placed inside a zip lock bag after being labeled, and is placed in a warm low light area. I check weekly for germination. After all the seed is germinated, I gradually harden off the seedlings by cracking the bag for longer and longer periods, eventually doing away with it. The cups then sit in tray watering, under twin 40 watt bulbs on shelves with a loose piece of plastic draped over the front. when there are 3 true leaves (not seedling leaves) I prick them out into permanent pots and continue with normal cultivation. I try to maintain 70% humidity for the seedlings at all times. When they are well established I try to keep the humidity as low as possible, and the light as high as possible which produces strong plants. Note I say "as possible" Keep a good eye on your plants, and do what they tell you;-) I have mine outside now between 40-80% humidity and they are now thriving. It has taken since about April of babying them to the point where they are now largely on their own.

    The chlorine in the pool area air shouldn't affect the plants too much I don't think, but avoid splashing the water on them. If you have good light, you should be able to grow most Droserae at 60% humidity, the Queensland species and some of the South Africans being exceptions, at least so far.
    "Grow More, Share More"

  6. #14

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    week two ends in the capensis house, still no sign of life
    James

  7. #15

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    James, when my capensis seeds sprouted they were so small that when I found some under a magnifying glass, it was difficult to locate them again the next time I looked. It is possible some might have germinated, but they may take a few days/weeks more.

    John

  8. #16
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    thanks i'll keep waiting

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