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Hmm, neem oil vs. b. liniflora

Well guys, I guess there are few other cp's that I could have picked that would have been worse than this guy to try this stuff out on. But, it had to be done.
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I soaked the substrate of B. liniflora with some Schultz fungucide3 last night. Supposedly it's "garden safe", and schultz said it "should" be fine for cp's. The only real active ingredient in it seems to be neem oil. So...who think i'm gonna go home and find I burned a hole through my byblis?
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I have no idea!

I had a post similar to this asking if it was safe to use Schultz fungucide3 in 1 but no one responded..

I guess you be one of the first to experiment with Schultz fungucide 3 in 1.

If you have good results plz post your results.
 
Well, I also sprayed a little on a N. rafflesiana. So, I guess neps will be the next guinea pig. I really don't think it would be a good idea for pings, but the rest should be ok maybe.
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Drosera may become a test subject as well, but i'm still weary of actually spraying the plant with the stuff. It seems like it being oil would decimate the dew glands...but depending on the species it should recover. Most of the pests and such that I would need this for would be in or on the substrate anyway, so we'll just try washing them out at first.
 
Neem oil in a fungicide? Hadn't heard of that one before.

I try and avoid oil anything. 99% of the time damage is caused by the oil if it is the active ingredient or the oil carrier if it is an oil based solution. I have rarely had a problem even when trying new chemicals if it is a water based formula or powder mixed with water.

Tony
 
Yeah, I figured the oil was the bad part. But, it was my only choice yesterday and I was getting annoyed with some little pests.

It's apparently something like .001% hydrophobic extract of neem oil, i'm not sure what the rest is...that could be a problem. They say it's safe around pets (which is a plus to a lot of us) and it biodegrades in 2-3 weeks...which hopefully if the plant pulled through, wouldn't have much of a residual effect on it.

I'm going to keep testing it just so there's some actual facts on its usage, and i'll inform schultz so they can let others know if it's bad for them.

I guess the common solution is what, orthene?
 
I guess I will also experiment. I'm going to need a fungicide before I put my plants in the fridge for dormancy.

I wish I could find someone thats sells orthene in my area.
 
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (LenG444 @ Sep. 05 2003,4:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I guess I will also experiment.  I'm going to need a fungicide before I put my plants in the fridge for dormancy.

I wish I could find someone thats sells orthene in my area.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
PFT sells two different types of fungucide. Cleary's 3336 works as far as I can tell. Definately helped with damp off on sarracenia seeds.

If you can't find orthene, try diazinon or sevin from what i've heard.
 
i just brought this stuff today . i have read some where its very safe to use and has been tested on all cps ( i would'nt bet on that ) but i'm guessing its safe . i don't know if its really an oil , i think its just what they call it . its an extract from a tree found in india and its is gquite harmless to all wildlife , it had even been used for animals as well , the only thing it will harm are bugs and fungus . this is what i've heard , may have heard from some place with info on orchids or a co website .
 
Orthene, diazinon, and sevin are all insecticides and won't help with fungi.

The Cleary's 3336 fungicide that PFT sells is topnotch commercial grade. Well worth getting over anything you will find in most garden centers.

Neem oil is supposed to be quite good and has indeed been used by orchid growers for a while. I have no personal experience with it. Most cp's are much more sensitive to chemicals than orchids however, so always be careful with new chemicals!

Tony
 
  • #10
Well, I basically soaked it down with schultz's product. It's a small undrained container so any damage should be noticeable. So far it's been a few days since the application and here are the results:

The B. liniflora isn't:

Wilting
Dying (yet)
Aborting it's flowers
Looking like it's burned (well, dry leaf tips don't count
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)
Apparently it's not getting eaten by fungus gnat larvae from what I can tell unless they're under the substrate

It is:
Still putting up flowers
putting out leaves
growing like it was
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So far so good. We'll see what happens.
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Btw, anyone know how long it takes to tell if a Byblis is setting seed or not? It's in flower and I want to make sure I can pollenate it. That way I can get seed, and put it under more stress to see if the stuff is hurting it.
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  • #12
I just got a .9% Neem Oil Spray to fight back against the botrytis that besieges my CPs. Luckily it hasn't reached the plants yet, but the soil in the pot of my little D. Rotundifolia is starting to be overrun. Plus, My AC unit FESTERS with the stuff, so I think that's how the plants caught it originally, since the AC unit is right under the windowsill where the rotundifolia and a purp grow, as well a where I place the plants when I prune and water them. IS this stuff going to hurt my Plants? Plants to be treated include: S. Leucophylla and purpurea, D. Rotundifolia and D. Muscipula.
 
  • #13
<span style='color:RED'>UPDATE</span>

Well guys, its been ten days so far, should be long enough for a plant to drop i'd think...especially since I get it a few more shots of the stuff for the heck of it.
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The lower "leaves" from the byblis are drying up and dying off (it was doing this before anyway), it seems to be leaning more, but hmm, could that be from the seed pod that formed 3 days after spraying? Two more flowers have opened, one gone already.

Here's something interesting...two days after the original application of this stuff, and I noticed a byblis seed germinated that hadn't a while back when this one did.
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So strange.

Btw, don't expect instant results on insects with this stuff. Seems to take a little bit and they really don't seem to like it.
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Also, if there's a spot on the plant that doesn't have it, they'll still go for the plant (fungus gnat larvae...vengeful bastards). I may go for something a bit stronger than this stuff. Might be good to use here and there though.

Btw...i also sprayed a seedling vft. We'll see what happens with that.

Whatever happens with the byblis happens, lets just hope the seed pod finishes ripening first. It will be interesting to see how long the seedling lasts in medium that's soaked with neem oil.
 
  • #14
I'm confused...are you trying to get rid of pests or fungus? I thought Neem was a pesticide too. Got little pests, you need pesticide....got fungus, you need a fungicide. Got milk...you need a cookie.
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Unless its a broad spectrum chemical of some sort that does both.

Suzanne
 
  • #15
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (PlantAKiss @ Sep. 15 2003,10:07)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I'm confused...are you trying to get rid of pests or fungus?  I thought Neem was a pesticide too.  Got little pests, you need pesticide....got fungus, you need a fungicide.  Got milk...you need a cookie.  
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Unless its a broad spectrum chemical of some sort that does both.

Suzanne[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
Hehehe, that's why they call it schultz fungucide3.
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Fungucide, pesticide, miticide. Apparently it's the milk and cookie all wrapped up in a fun little snack bar.


UPDATE

Well, the byblis is sulking. Weird huh? It looks like it's dying off from the bottom up. All the lower leaves are pretty dried out, but I can't tell if maybe the base of the plant started to rot, or if it's from the neem oil. Let's hope the seed pod matures before that leaf dies off.

The seedling is still hanging out though. That's still a weird one. I wouldn't have thought that it would want to germinate after it was covered with neem oil. But, it's there.

I'm gonna continue using this product here and there, just for giggles. It doesn't do anything too dramatic from what i've seen. And sometimes fungus gnat larvae eat faster when they're pissed off.

For fungucide i'm going to stick with cleary's 3336, pesticide I think i'm just going to kick myself a few times and get a big ol' container of orthene and cook the little buggers. Or just put itty bitty utrics in every pot.

Oh, and fungus gnat larvae will apparently eat an entire seedling flytrap. They love ping leaves, seem to enjoy the roots and leaf tips of byblis, no problem so far with drosera, neps, cephs, helis, or sarr's.

I'll still keep you guys updated on the byblis. I'll be watching it closely anyway.
 
  • #16
I've used schultz fungucide3 several times without any problems. One time i used it when it was mixed with well water instead of ro water (my mom used up my ro mix and mixed more up with well water and i didn't know it) and even then i didn't have any problems. On the bottle it says the fungicide3 is water based. I plan to use it as my fungicide this dormancy.


-buckeye
 
  • #17
Whoa...you're supposed to mix it with water?
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When did that happen?
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I'm not really sure if they could call it water based if it's active ingrediant is an oil.
 
  • #18
Hi vertigo. I have the fungicide3 concentrate. So mine tells you to mix it with water, 2 tbsp to 1 gal. You must have the premixed. On the bottle of the concentrate, to the right of the schultz logo, there's a picture of a water drop and underneath it says water based. It's made of 70% clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil and 30% inert ingredients.  So i don't know if an extract of neem oil is an actual oil or not. If it is an oil, maybe water based is referring to the 30% inert ingredients. I don't really know.


      -buckeye
 
  • #19
Ahh, that could be a difference.
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I can't find powdered forms around me.

But...the byblis is gone...I can't say it's from the fungucide3 as there is a seedling growing in the same media right next to it. The seed pod never split, but I picked it and split it with my nail and there's seed in it. Viable? I guess we'll find out, huh?
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I wonder if you stress a plant with something specific while seed is being formed if it would help with a defense against it.
 
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