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Thread: Dry dormancies

  1. #1

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    I was just wondering, do tuberous and pygmies require a dry dormancy or can you just skip it?
    And though the Heavens and the Earth pass away.

  2. #2

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    Most tuberous droserae require a dry dormancy. D.peltata, auriculata, whittakeri can tolerate moist conditions during dormancy. As for pygmies, many can be grown on the tray year-round([I]D.pulchella, 'Lake Baderup', nitidula, pygmaea etc.), but some will show signs of going into dormancy(dried leaves, stop growing). If this happens,reduce the watering until the soil is dry.

  3. #3

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    Yes, I agree with CPk2, and as I have said before, if you notice the growth has stopped: no new traps being produced, then you are seeing a dormant plant. No amount of watering will make them grow, so if you notice this its time to back off watering, and remove them from the tray. Dormancy usually happens right after flowering: a sensitive period so keep a look out.
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  4. #4

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    I also agree with the above comments. It is however important to realise that a dry dormancy does not mean absolutely dry, this will result in desiccation and death for many tuberous and pygmy species. There must be a very small amount of moisture available to dormant tubers or the roots of pygmies to prevent this.

    With the tuberous sundews, it is best to store the pots completely dry, but in a fairly humid environment during dormancy. This is perhaps easier in the UK where I live than in some parts of continental N. America. If you don't have a humid greenhouse or similar, you can store the pots dry at the back of a terrarium during dormancy.

    Those pygmy sundews which tend to go dormant are best grown in fairly large, deep pots, so that the roots don't dry out completely during summer. Again, fairly humid air will help.

    Vic
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