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Thread: Dormant pygmies?

  1. #9

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    I think summer sensitive is when they die if you screw up their summer growing conditions. I had a pygmi once. It went dorment and died.
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  2. #10

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    There are a number of species which seem to go dormant despite all attempts to prevent this, many found in lateritic soils in habitat that bake bone dry in the Australian summer. These are what I mean by summer sensitive. Some species will continue to grow if adequate conditions for growth are present during the summer. In my experience, D. dichrosepala is one of the ones that will go dormant, in which case no amount of water is going to make it grow, and overly wet conditions will promote rotting of the dormant rosette. The best chances of success are to grow such species in sandy mixes in as deep a pot as possible (some day I want to try it in lengths of PVC pipe) in order to encourage DEEP roots. This will allow for surface dryness and deeper soil moistness without compromising the root system which are extremely long and fragile. Transplants after flowering are almost certain to cause plant loss, and transplants are best done well before flowering while the plants are juvenille and the roots not so long.
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  3. #11

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    Lightbulb

    Thank YOu for all the info, a few more things I'd like to know: how long does dormancy last for dichrosepala? is there any way to reverse and/or prevent dormancy? and what month or time of year is best to start shortening the amount of light the plants get to induce gammae production, Thanks a lot

  4. #12

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    Dormancy usually comes shortly after flowering and lasts through the gemmae season in December-January. After the gemmae production the plants make a slow recovery, growing through the winter (although they look pretty ragged at this stage). Bu April they should be back to producing active traps (at least in my conditions).

    I have heard that dormancy may be forestalled by removal of the flowers, but if the plants are already dormant, nothing is going to make them grow out of season.

    My plants come inside in October and are under 13h, November 12h, December 11h. I keep them at 11h until gemmae formation is done, and begin increasing the photo period: 14h Feb, 15h MArch, 16h April. At the end of April the plants and gemmaelings go back outside after the danger of frost. Remember: photoperiod reduction does not mean light *intensity* only duration. My plants/gemmae are nearly touching the light tubes: as close as possible.



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  5. #13

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    Hi Tamlin,

    It's interesting to hear you say that your dichrosepalas always go dormant in summer no matter what conditions you supply them with. In my experience- with plants grown outside all year in full sun and permanent water (1 inch in a glass fishtank)- they have never gone dormant. They grow constantly until gemmae production and kick on again after that. My mix is around 50/50 peat sand.

    Sean.

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