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Thread: How to harden off plants from flasks

  1. #1
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    So I just got my hands on some D. falconerii and D. neo-caledonica in flasks and I am looking for a little advice on how to take them out and acclimate them. I was thinking of dropping them into my terrarium but I am not sure the humidity will be high enough so my new thought is in zip-locks on the windowsill. Will this work? Start opening the zips in a couple weeks and increase the opening slowly?
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

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    Pyro
    Semms like you got the answer [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    My way is to clean the roots from the agar with water then plan them in pots cover with plastic bag after a week or so I start to make little holes in bag then bigger holes and after about 3 weeks to take the plastic bag down and watch them very carefully if they didn't look so good I go on with the cover for longer time.
    good luck with them as they are great plants
    Arie
    Arie Cohen

    Israel Carnivorous Plants Society Chairman
    http://www.thecarnivorousplants.com

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    I've never tried with CPs, only a couple times with orchids, but...
    Arie is right about rinsing, otherwise fungus will appear very quickly on the agar.
    I usually put them in a terrarium, and cover with saran wrap over the lid, and slowly punch holes. I keep a half inch or so water in the bottom until the saran wrap is mostly off, then decrease.
    If the plants get fungus, decrease the humidity faster, at least with orchids most survive even with a fungus if the humidity is decreased.

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    there is a site that i found a while a go that has information targeted at orchids for deflasking. they have a special mix that they give you directions for that would keep you from having to disturb theplants that much by not removing the agar. i will attemp to find it again it was very good.i dont think the mix would harm the drosera.

    cheers,

    Joel [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]

  5. #5
    Guest
    I just got some interesting in vitro stuff myself and am following similar procedure, however, in this case, the plants were in the mail for way too long and I am not too hopeful. Basically, the roots were OK but the rosettes were mush, so I took as many root cuttings as I could.

    I wanted to mention that in vitro plants usually have the perfect mix of chemicals the plant needs. When you take them out of their flasks, its probably a good idea to FERTILIZE them (someone else confirmed this). Perhaps the lack of fertilizer and insects is why I have never had good luck from in vitro plants! Good luck. neocaledonica has been a tricky one for me, but my falconeris are now kicking ***!!!!! One thing I did learn about that plant - do NOT transplant it in during the winter! I lost 1/2 of my plants that way, even though they were in active growth. The survivors sat and sat until a couple months ago when they absolutely exploded. It's one of my favorites! I will have to add a photo to my webpage soon.

    sundewmatt

  6. #6
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Matt,

    Thanks for the mantion of the fertilizer, I hadn't though of that but it makes good sense. Quarter strength orchid 30-10-10 acceptable??
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

    --
    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat

  7. #7
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    I did MINIMAL experiments with fertilizer and found that very diluted 30-10-10 miracid worked alright but miracle grow was not too good. However, I decided not to fertilize at all after that cause I didn't want the algae, slime mold and moss growth which usually accompanies it...

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