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Thread: Are my pygmies dead or dormant?

  1. #9

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    Here in Upstate NY my plants usually start growing again around the second week in October. They like the colder conditions then I think. Until then, the dormant ones look pretty bad. I am always amazed when they decide to live again!

    I have found with these plants, a deep pot is really the way to go. Next season I am going to be using the narrow water bottles I have seen water marketed in, much taller than traditional pots, but still space efficient.

    In most cases, if dormancy can be prevented, all the better.
    I keep mine in tray water until I detect any dormancy, then I let the plants drain for a day or 2, aiming for a semi dry surface but with moisture deeper down. I put them back in the tray for a few mins every 3 days or so, but I dont know if this is beneficial or detrimental yet. It's sort of hard to tell once the plants go "ratty".
    I had less plants go dormant this summer than last, so maybe the deeper pots have an effect on the process??....I dont know for sure. I do know that once they decide on dormancy, nothing will stop the process, and adding additional water to encourage growth will rot the roots. Shallow pots just dont have the right balance of dryness at the surface and moisture deep down, and the roots suffer for it.

    CPK2 mentiones his success with the use of a high proportion of pearlite in his mix for some of species known to frequently go dormant, and has managed to keep species in active summer growth that have always gone dormant under my care. I look forward to trying this mix next season.

    Vic Brown has noted removal of the flowers may also forestall dormancy, and says he gets a higher survival rate if they do go dormant.
    "Grow More, Share More"

  2. #10
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    Thanks Tamlin,

    As a side note, one of my pygmies seems to halfway open some of its flowers from the previous spring... interesting. Is this a good sign, or a last ditch effort by the plant to cling to life?

    I recently got another pygmy species (bareroot in spagnum), so I planted it in a rather deep pot [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rolleyes.gif[/img] I wasn't fortunate to recieve the 3 previous species in deep pots, and heard that they don't like to be transplanted, so I left them in their 2" pots to brave the dormancy [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img]

    -Homer

  3. #11

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    Homer,

    If the plants are weak and still trying to flower, I would probably remove the scape, based on Vic's observations. You are correct, transplant should be avoided after the plants flower: it rarely is successful, at lest for me.
    "Grow More, Share More"

  4. #12

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    An update on my plants..... Well all of my pygmies are goners. Yesterday some unknown entity [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif[/img] uprooted my plants and apparently swallowed them cause I could not find them anywhere. This time I know for sure it was not my cat. I guess I have to get more or pray that when someone here gives away gammae I manage to snag some.

  5. #13
    homer's Avatar
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    Plant update. My pygmies are showing signs of life now! Tiny leaves are sprouting from the stiples. Soon I should have gammea, I hope... if anyone out there cares.

    -Homer

  6. #14

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    Hi Tamlin,

    The pycnoblastas growing in the airy mix composed mostly of perlite have yet to show any signs of dormancy. They are probably the best looking pygmies I have at the moment.
    The weather has cooled down a little in my area, but the temperatures are still hitting the 80'sF during the afternoon.

    The perlite mix looks very promising(and cheap)! I will have to try more summer dormant pygmies on this mix when my plants produce gemmae.




  7. #15

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    Soon I should have gammea, I hope... if anyone out there cares.
    [/QUOTE]

    I care! I care! I hope you get good results! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

    SF

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