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Thread: D.Spathulata

  1. #9
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    well, I guess you never really know if they will open... from my understanding, you will almost always get a larger plant faster, from a cutting, almost every time, though, you can't produce as many to be sure!

    I just put brand new bulbs in my tank, so I am letting the current attempt at a flower stalk grow.. just in case... NG, in your pics your tanks look like they are infront of a window with curtains... have you thought about doing an experiment, and while of course closely monitoring temps and what not, expose your spath to full sunlight for a couple of hours a day? It may do nothing, it may burn some of your more delicate plants, and of course, it could make them all very happy!

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    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Well I moved the Spathulata/Merrilliana tank to on top of my monitor as temps were low and it gets sun there from refaction off the snow but I like producing plants from cuttings better but if the flowers do open....more power to me! But I don't really care what happens as more spaths. are popping up in the pot so I am not concerned.

  3. #11
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    Sorry I wish I had joined the conversation sooner

    Here is what I have played with...and gotten results!

    I have had my VFT's flower ( which they are again right now!) my pings flower and the Sundews are always trying to.

    All the plants that I have are grown under artificial lighting. No CP's are grown outdoors ( until the Spring when I get the greenhouse)...anyway.

    The cool white tubes DO NOT put out the right spectrum for the plant to flower.

    I have found the warm lights ( the red bulbs ) puts out the right color to get the flower to open. So I have mixed cool, warm, and plant lights in my lab. With that mix...I get flowers all the time. Before that ...I was having the same problem...I would get the flower spike but the flower wouldn't open.

    The only other way to have them open is to put them outdoors where they will get the full spectrum of light needed to flower.

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    that makes me feel good because I now have a mixture of two brand new plant bulbs, and I am about to replace the other two (natural sunlight bulbs) with two new of their kind... so perhaps I will get some flowers this time!

  5. #13
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Well I have 1 15 watt bulb designed from reptiles. It is lighting the N.Merrilliana and D.Spathulata terrarium and really brings out the red color in the Merrilliana!! :o It is heat productive so it is about 80-82 during the day and 70-65 at night. But back to the light. It is heat productive for the reptile use and it is also coated in a purple substance called RARE EARTH NEODYMIUM. So the light it emmits is of a purplish hue almost. But it says it is a FULL SPECTRUM DAYLIGHT HEAT LAMP. Also it says the NEODYMIUM brings out the colors of reptiles. So maby it works for Nepenthes too! [img]http://www.**********.com/iBhtml/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

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    is that all your using NG? It doesn't seem like NEARLY enough to make your plants happy!

  7. #15
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Well the light is about 6-8 inches away from the plants.

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    The plant should produce seed even if the flowers do not fully open. This is the case with many Drosera. Many times in order to study the floristics, I must manually open and pin the petals back to observe the parts inside, so don't let the fact that you can't see the flowers deter you. Each bud will become erect, usually one an day or so, working up the scape, and there will most often be seed. Self fertile Drosera don't need to open, and many simply will not do so, as there is little advantage, as no pollinators are needed to transfer the pollen.

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