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Thread: Petiolaris-complex Drosera

  1. #9

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    Goodness! Eight months for the seeds to germinate! Looks like I would have a long wait infront of me. Some of my petiolaris-complex seeds had been sitting in their pots for over four months already. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img]

  2. #10

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    Gugin,

    Don't give up on that seed! Mine took nearly a year to germinate, and it did so on one of the hottest days of summer. Heat seems to be the thing when it comes to these plants, and that is why is is so unjust that I should have lost so many species last summer in a brutal heatwave! Arrrrgh.

    I really liked the story seedling tells. He must have gone to the same cultivation school as I did!

    Like Tom says, "it's always the cat". Ahhh, the stories I could tell.....
    "Grow More, Share More"

  3. #11

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    I have some "seedling" of D. paradoxa that germinated in about march (I think) and are currenty flowering. They largest plant is about 2 1/2" across. I keep these in a fishtank with a heater keeping water in the bottom at about 30c. The plants get watered when they look a bit dry and are not sitting in water. They are growing in a pet 50:50 peat/perlite mix.

    The problem is if you take the plants out to photograph the flowers they close in the cooler air!! AHHH!

    George

  4. #12

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    I find D. paradoxa easier to maintain than D. petiolaris. I leave my D. paradoxa in a cup of water and the plant usually has the base of the stem covered in water. It is grown like a semi-aquatic plant!

    I have to be very careful with D. petiolaris. I keep it like D. paradoxa, but I always make sure that there is always water in the cup. When there isn't sufficient water, it will stop producing dew and start to complain. As it is now, it produces very little dew.

    I keep the soil flooded after seeing a picture of the growing conditions of D. petiolaris in the wild in A. Lowrie's third volume.

  5. #13

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    Guqin: Mine germinated fast, but mostly due to heat : 25 out of ? (not very much than that) germinated in 2 weeks after sowing, but they were sown in a clear plastic container with a lid (the ones commonly used in grocery stores: they are stackable!!), and putted in a 25°C (80°F) area. This heat give the go for others seeds as well: D.burmannii which didn't want to sprout for 1 month... And Byblis now... Heat is really a friend when it comes to germination .

    The D.paradoxa x ?? germinate in 2 weeks too, in heated water (80°F)...

    Heat, heat, HEAT! :P lol So it should help yours to germinate faster...

  6. #14

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    I find that some bottom heat for germination works well with nearly eveything (exceptions being the Australian tuberous and South African winter growers). Others have said they got good Petiolaris complex seed germination under normal temperatures. It probably all depends on the color of your thumb anyways!

    I sure wish they did grow faster. It seems like there is no generalizing about growth rates though. I had a D. ordensis seedling that went from a 3.5 cm baby rosette to a lush full plant filling a 4 inch pot in a matter of a couple of months. My D. dilatato-petiolaris grew huge quickly, then split into 8 plants, then went dormant, and died. Some sit there looking great, but not growing much at all. I have had 3 traps unfold over night in D. darwiniensis, but D. petiolaris shrunk from a full rosette of many arms to a ghost of itself after flowering. Now it is returning with 4 offsets: all of which look small and frail. I find them hard to generalize about. Mine have survived being frozen solid, and baked to where all the arms withered both in the same year.

    The longer I grow them, the more I am convinced that they are very locked into a cyclic seasonal growth pattern very much photoperiod related. Their growth is a spiral dance outwards, and then back inwards as the days get shorter. More and more I begin to question the wisdom of forestalling dormancy in these plants although it is true that they will forego it if they have enough light, warmth and moisture. I just feel that they want something more natural, and they sort of "see through" whatever photoperiod I provide. Even with my current 18H photoperiod, the spiral effect is noted in my plants, almost like they were ignoring the puny flourescent lights in favor of the sun. The arms are spiraling downwards, getting smaller and it reminds me very much of pygmy gemmae formation.

    I have only grown these plants for 2 years, but this is how they are speaking to me. They seem to be very responsive plants, and they communicate what they do and do not like fairly evidently and quickly unlike some other plants which one moment are great looking and the next withered memories (Heliamphora come to mind here )
    "Grow More, Share More"

  7. #15
    Moderator Colieo's Avatar
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    What do you usualy do with your plants when they begin asking for dormancy? I will give it to my plants if they look like they need it, but If they dont, I wont force it on them.


    Cole
    Duele no tenerte cerca, duele no escuchar tu voz. Duele respirar tu ausencia, pero, duele más decirte adiós.

  8. #16
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (Tamlin Dawnstar @ Nov. 02 2003,11:37)]one moment are great looking and the next withered memories (Heliamphora come to mind here )
    I still have yet to master those..... [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif[/img] I know what you are saying William.

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