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Thread: Leaf cutting with capensis

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    I tried taking a couple of leaves off my capensis and dropped it into a cup of RO water. It's been nearly 3 weeks now and one of the leaves developed a fuzzy, webbing around it that looks like mould/fungus. There doesn't seem to be any developement in the other leaf.

    Can someone tell me usually how long of a process this is? How does this compare to just making the cutting and placing it in the medium?

    Thanks [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif[/img]
    DOH!

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    Hi CChang,

    I never used the 'traditional' way to make cutting of sundews, but I did a lot with your technique. It usually take more than a month to see results, and your leaves should be clean befor introducing them in pure water, since it can encourage algae growth.

    I usually have great success with sundews and utricularia species such as U.longifolia, but some species don't work at all or almost, as D.aliciae and D.capensis 'red' (why only the red? I don't know!). I have some batch of cutting which developped the same 'grey mould', but i cannot why either... All i know is that isn't a good sign for cuttings, since this phenomenon usually lead to very few working cuttings to none.

    Do you pot are open to air? it could be a source of contaminants...

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    homer's Avatar
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    Angry

    cchang,
    I would try again using a different method, such as this:
    place capensis cuttings on a pot/tray of moist, pure peatmoss. Give it good light and good ventilation while maintaining high humidity, if you can. This method should prevent most mold infestations. I have used this method successfully on other drosera as well. Best of luck to you.

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    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    This is how I do nearly all of my Drosera leaf cuttings. One thing among many, that I particularly like about this technique is that the plants will keep like this for a very long time until I am ready to pot them up. This lets me make more plants using trimmings I would ordinarily discard, those created when repotting plants. Also, it creates new plants well before I have space to grow them.

    The list of plants that I have successfully propagated this way include, but is not limited to:

    Drosera adelae
    Drosera aliciae
    Drosera anglica
    Drosera binata
    - - - - - - -all forms (even flower stalks will produce plantlets)
    Drosera burkeana
    Drosera capensis
    Drosera capillaris
    Drosera collinsiae
    Drosera dielsiana
    Drosera filiformis
    - - - - - - all forms
    Drosera glabripes
    Drosera hamiltonii
    Drosera natalensis
    Drosera neocaledonica
    Drosera nidiformis
    Drosera regia
    Drosera roraimae
    Drosera rotundifolia







    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

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    I did not cover up the top. Have you guys also tried dipping the cutting into Superthrive or a rooting hormone?

    I think I'll try it again now that my D. capensis has more petioles that are larger in size. This time, with a cover.

    BTW Tom, I dropped a SASE in the mail for you yesterday.
    Thanks again! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html312/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]



    DOH!

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    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    I never cover the top, the plants need all the oxygen they can get in order to continue growing.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

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    PinguiculaMan,

    Do you ever get mold or fungal growth? How do you prevent that? My cutting samples are pretty small and they float to the top.
    DOH!

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    I just want to make sure if I under stand correctly PinguiculaMan.

    1- You just take a cutting from a Drosera. Does not matter what part of the plant? Is their a minimum size of cutting?
    2- Place it into a glass of distilled water.
    3- Do you place the glass in a terrarium ?
    I grow under compact fluorescents, I take it give them as much light as possible?

    Sorry about all the questions but this will be my first time trying this form of propagation.

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