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Rooting cuttings

i wanna know if there is anyway that a cutting will root if it the cutting had no leaves...
 
If there is green on it, just make sure it's in the right temps, and give it A LOT of light so that the green stem can still photosynthesise.
 
will do. im trying to rood a stem of a alata(?) (could be copelandii mt pasian). its about 2-3 nodes with no leaves...
 
Hello, this method really works...get a very sharp knife and make 2 slits on the stem where it will be placed in the substrate, about an inch up from the cut and just deep enough to penetrate the outer layer of the stem. Then place rooting hormone on these incisions and as already stated, give very strong light and high temps. All of my cuttings are automatically watered from overhead every 45 minutes during daylight hours but I cannot say this is ideal but I have next to no casualties when rooting them this way. I have seen roots formed ONLY on these 2 incisions when inspecting newly formed roots, but this is not always the case; it does stimulate roots to form...hope this helps.
Ludwig
 
I have a N. x wrigleyana that is rooting from no leaves and only one node. I used the rooting method that ludwig777 described. Good luck!

Chris
 
thanks all for these encouraging words! i hope it does work!
smile.gif
 
Good luck! My one attempt at rooting a cutting has been a slow crashing burn despite my efforts.
 
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Est @ Jan. 09 2006,7:21)]Good luck!  My one attempt at rooting a cutting has been a slow crashing burn despite my efforts.
There is the constant battle between needing constant moisture and the tendency to rot...this is where the strong light comes into play...must kill off some of the rot...keep trying.
Ludwig
 
AS long as you put just enough moisture in the soil for it to be moist but not waterlogged, and then place it in a bag with the cutting, the humidity will staty high, and you wont haave to worry about over or under watering the media.
 
  • #10
[b said:
Quote[/b] ]There is the constant battle between needing constant moisture and the tendency to rot...this is where the strong light comes into play...must kill off some of the rot...keep trying.

It started a good while ago while we were still having awesome weather. That thing was getting sun and contant humidity, was cut with sterile razors, I tried rooting hormone, many different substrates, I cut off excess foliage (because it grew quite a bit)... No matter what I did, nor in what combination I did, the cut areas would turn brown. I KNOW I've had it in good conditions because it's grown considerable (it has the apical meristem.) Dunno, I think it may have just been a cutting from hell.
confused.gif
By now I've pretty much given up because it (of course) is growing a lot less and is losing the fight.
 
  • #11
I don't know whether it's in fact helpful or merely apocryphal, but I keep my cuttings in lower light conditions for about a month or so after taking them. The theory is that high light levels promote leaf growth, which detracts from root formation. The lower light allows the cutting to concentrate on roots. The lower light it also a more gentle way of treating a cutting as it doesn't have the means of regulating temperature as a rooted plant would.

I also support the comments that mildly damp & humid is enough. Waterlogging is a good way of rotting cuttings. They don't need much moisture as they don't have the roots to absorb it.
 
  • #12
Hmm. For the most part it's been either in a tank with good humidity or in a large ziplock bag behind my sliding glass door (which between being warped and fairly thick blocks a good amount of light.) I suppose that light/heat is the least altered variable in my case... Even despite being grown in pure pumice, I believe the stemp has still turned brown (haven't really checked since.)

Thanks for all the tips, if I find it didn't take, then I'll try it in a bit lower light setting and keep the current airy substrate. Fc, you've got a lot of good info here!
smile.gif
 
  • #13
[b said:
Quote[/b] (SydneyNeps @ Jan. 09 2006,12:02)]I don't know whether it's in fact helpful or merely apocryphal, but I keep my cuttings in lower light conditions for about a month or so after taking them. The theory is that high light levels promote leaf growth, which detracts from root formation. The lower light allows the cutting to concentrate on roots. The lower light it also a more gentle way of treating a cutting as it doesn't have the means of regulating temperature as a rooted plant would.

I also support the comments that mildly damp & humid is enough. Waterlogging is a good way of rotting cuttings. They don't need much moisture as they don't have the roots to absorb it.
That's interesting...I will try this some time. I admit, my method seems dangerous but nonetheless I have good success. It may be that my GH is located in full sun and the plants' only shade is from structural components and other plants. Maybe this illustrates Nepenthes' overall adaptability to many different situations.
Ludwig
 
  • #14
There is one experienced grower who puts her Nep cuttings in a vase and treats it like a rosebud - with success - all rootrot aside.
 
  • #15
Cuttings can be taken in water for those species which grow and root quickly, like gracilis and x Ventrata. I'm sure there are other lowland species which would work well. But many highland species can be particularly slow to root, and standing them in water for that length of time would be more likely to see them rot before rooting.
 
  • #16
but will circulating new water help?
 
  • #17
To a certain degree. But I would hazard a guess that slow-rooting species, such as burbidgeae, would rot regardless of how often its water were refreshed.
 
  • #18
[b said:
Quote[/b] (SydneyNeps @ Jan. 09 2006,5:16)]Cuttings can be taken in water for those species which grow and root quickly, like gracilis and x Ventrata. I'm sure there are other lowland species which would work well. But many highland species can be particularly slow to root, and standing them in water for that length of time would be more likely to see them rot before rooting.
And perhaps that is what she is having success with rooting in this manner. I'll have to check and make sure.
 
  • #19
well today i checked to squeeze the excess water out of the moss and i notice that one of the ventratas are getting some rootlets! i have to check the other one with no leaves in about 3 weeks to see the progress...
 
  • #20
My method of making cuttings is to shave the outter skin off the plant (use a very sharp scalpel so as to not damage the tissues but make clean quick slices) this allows the roots to grow from wherever they feel, in any direction. After this dip in rootone as already stated and pack tightly into a small pot (I like 2 1/2" jiffy pots cos they're cheap and you can fit a lot of them in a small space) I say tightly because the wobbling of a plant which is trying to root will damage the young, thin and very fragile roots. Also, I believe the surface contact between  the inner tissues of the plant and the soil inspires the roots to really dig in. This method has given me a fantastic success rate with almost all neps I grow (coupled with proper temps, humidity, etc.).
The only ones who don't work for me are N. ampullaria stem cuttings. Try as I might it just don't happen.
confused.gif


edit: I wanna add be sure to mist the stem/leaf/stem cutting (whatever you have) every couple days as this is where your plant will get it's moisture until it creates roots. I don't water cutting soil more than about once every two weeks since too much water in the soil will cause the planted portion of the stem to rot. Just keep the soil barely moist until you see some decent upper growth of a real leaf (not the pseudoleafs which will occour first), that seems to be a good indicator of some action below the soil as well.
 
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