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hamata, easy to root?

title says it all. out of curiosity what species are known to be easy and what ones are difficult to root cuttings?
 
N.gracilis is an easy species to root and based on my experience N. x edinensis is really easy to root.
 
alata is easy, fusca x veitchii seems rather slow. I would think that the easy growers are easy to root, ventricosa, maxima, ramispina. Slow growers would be more difficult: lowii, rajah. I've heard conflicting reports on aristo, but the tip cutting is said to be easier than cuttings lower down the vine.
 
Hamata is easy to root. I've know people who've had lots of problems with aristo, but I've never lost a cutting. I do my cuttings at the end of winter, which seems to help enormously. Tip cuttings, or lateral/basal shoots are the way to go. I've found eymae a bit tricky - cuttings with dormant nodes will root easily then die when the node doesn't grow, but tip cuttings are easy. N. rowanae can be very temperamental from cuttings.
 
If a basil shoot counts as a cutting then I'd have to say that yes its very easy to root.

Check out mine here: N. hamata post

Cheers
Steve
 
Up until this last cutting season I had always had great success rooting almost any Nep using a 10 minute soak in water with vit B based stress formula and potting in pure shredded sphagnum. Well this year I didn't have any Vit B onhand so I used some rooting powder they have at Home Depot. Disaster city! I NEVER lost so many cuttings! Out of all my cuttings I was able to save about 30% and I blame it on this powder. The ones I unpotted washed and repotted have survived. I'll never do that again. Hormex liquid and Superthrive is the same thing with different patents and I've used both with great success over the last 4+ years for making cuttings. I'd never done the rooting power before and never will again.
 
I second that, rooting powder sucks!

Josh what is your solution mix, straight SuperThrive?
 
Initially, just a couple drops of ST or Hormex liquid to a liter or two of room temp or even slightly warm (but not over 80*F) water.

Cut up the stems into 1 and 2 node pieces, cut all the leaves in half, make a few vertical slices with a sharp sterile blade on the lower 1" of the stems and soak in the solution-you'll notice the cuttings seem to firm up/plump as they absorb the mixture. After pulling them out of the nutrient bath I do like to quickly dip the slit end of the stem into a small vial of the pure liquid just before planting (I dunno about letting it soak in the pure stuff, that could be too much). After dipping I wrap the slit end of the stem snugly with long fibered sphagnum, making sure the potted cutting doesn't wobble when picked up and moved. Thois ensures there is good contact between the substrate and the emerging roots.
 
Josh,
Do you think it's the powder or any rooting supplement(like Dip N Gro which is a liquid)?
I had never heard of anybody reporting bad stuff before like this, so I find this interesting-it's something I have not had a lot of luck with in the past.
Here is an excerpt from Tony's site:


Rooting powder is mixed with water to make a thin paste. It sticks to the stems better and reduces risk of inhaling the dust. This procedure will work without rooting powder. However it is highly recommended to speed the rooting process and reduce the risk of cuttings rotting since commercial rooting powders usually contain fungicide also. If you don't have rooting powder at least apply some sort of general fungicide.

Cheers,

Joe
 
  • #10
Huh. I wondered why I had such lousy results with my last batch of cuttings. It was the rooting powder! I guess I don't have to feel like such a looser now....I can blame my tools....
 
  • #11
For what it's worth, I never use rooting powder or hormones, and have great results with cuttings.
 
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