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Just to share an experience - TC Nepenthes

Cindy

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Materials: 2 TC N. khasiana

Set-ups: One in a covered box with perlite. The other potted in LFS/perlite and covered with a cup.

Observation: Perlite box was uncovered partially after a day and the plant remained turgid (firm). By the end of the week, the cover was completely off. By the end of the month, new and longer roots were observed. Pitchers formed are fully functional pitchers i.e. lids are open. The plant was then potted in LFS/perlite mix and it continued growing...not stunned.

The second plant that was potted straight in LFS/perlite needed cup to be on the whole time. It took about a month and several "limp" sessions before the plant can be hardened. Growth rate is slower and pitchers are immature, not fully functional.

Recently, I removed the "weaker" fellow from the potting mix so that I can check on the roots. Not good at all.
khasianaexptr1.jpg


The root system of the one in perlite from the beginning.
khasianaexptr2.jpg


No need to elaborate, you all can figure out which is which. I have decided that the "weaker" fellow needs a stonger root system before it go into a pot again.
khasianaexpt.jpg


Conclusion: Use perlite for hardening your TC nep. First, it helps to maintain humidity around the plant all the time. Second, minimal watering encourages root to grow. I have almost 100% strike rate for nep cuttings using perlite.
 
interesting. I will try on neps seeds to see their growth rate.

Robert
 
Verrrrry interesting.....

Will have to try that myself!
 
Wow, that's pretty convincing. Wonder if I should move the cuttings I'm already trying to strike in sphagnum into perlite instead? Guess I'll try with some of them and see how it works for me.
 
I never tried cuttings in straight perlite. Looks to work very well and easy to see the new roots forming.
I always use the same mix for cuttings that I do for my neps. Equal parts peat moss, perlite, and LFS.
 
I wonder if northiana would like to be rooted in pure perlite?
 
Very cool Cindy! Great experiment, and pics! yes the results speak for themselves. I bet you could continue to grow the plants to maturity quite rapidly in that perlite..hmmmmm.
Thanks, we need more stuff like this!
robin
 
I've rooted the following using the same method.

N. ampullaria
N. gracilis
N. rafflesiana
N. mirabilis
N. sanguinea
N. albomarginata
N. belli
N. Miranda
N. Emmarene
N. ventricosa x maxima
N. tobaica x thorelli
N. ventrata

So inspired that now, I am trying to root N. thorelli x aristolochioides.

And just to highlight, for cuttings, I do not cut it slanted. I cut it across but split the outer layer of the stem up to an inch, leaving the core intact...ummm...not sure if everyone can understand what I mean...I'll post a pic later on.  
smile_n_32.gif
 
Nice Cindy!
I will have to give it a try - I'm a die hard moss & orchid bark fan!

How often did you have to water your pure perlite pots?
Is it easy to keep from flooding pure perlite out of the pot when you do have to water? I suppose you could top dress with LFS to keep the perlite in the pot...
 
  • #10
I place 2-3" of perlite into a clear undrained container. When I can see the roots at the base of the container, it means the cutting has a sufficiently large root mass to be potted up. The water is up to the height of the perlite and no higher. I allow the water level to go all the way down to the bottom before refilling. At that time, the perlite is only barely moist. That process of letting the water level drop helps to reintroduce oxygen into the perlite, which is necessary for rooting.

Recent cuttings of N. Miranda, N. gracilis, N. ampullaria and N. thorelli x aristochioides.
cuttingsinperlite.jpg


No roots yet. Hehe.
smile_m_32.gif

cuttingsinperlite1.jpg
 
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