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  1. #1
    Always a newbie glider14's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
    Louisville, Kentucky
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    Ok i just looked under the leaf of my N. Ventrata and there are little weblike things....with red spider mites!!! ive never been through somthing like this! i have isotox which is also a mitecide. what kind of solution should i use for it?how long should i use it? i heard that the eggs are impervious to chemicals. anything else i should know? so far its only on 1 nep that i can see but i have two others and orchids near it.
    Thanks guys
    Everything is explainable. The seemingly unexplainable is but a result of our insufficient knowledge.- Hans Brewer

  2. #2
    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    Apr 2005
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    Try this site for answer and here are some members of another sites advice on mites too.
    This came from a member at Another site I am a member at.
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]owning a nursery, I've dealt with LOTS of mites (red spider on conifers mostly) and rotation spraying is the only thing that's ever worked for me...miticides included. The regimen
    I use is Orthene WP, wait a week, horticultural
    oil, wait a week, and then insecticidal soap. The rotation spraying usually gets them ALL. Sometimes just to make me feel better I use Orthene one last time as a drench. It's a bit of trouble, but it does work. We've tried supposedly single application miticides in the nursery and single application never completely
    works. The little buggers build up resistance too darn fast!
    Another method
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]I have not found Orthene to be any use at all in controlling two-spotted mites. Also I think there is no resistance likely in a period of weeks. The best of the miticides is Hexygon DF as it is a miticide/ovicide combination. Any miticide should be used in a cycle of at least two sprays within five days and if the infestation is severe, three sprays over ten days. Always spray plants which have been watered immediately prior as watering the day after spraying will always reduce the effectiveness of the product. I would use Hexygon followed by Floramite and Pylon and then Ultra-Fine parrafinic oil once a month as a prophylactic. It is even possible to put Ultra-Fine in your fertilizer concentrate tank and water it on once a month for a real labor-saving approach! Be careful to spray under the foliage, few mites are found on the upper surface of orchid leaves.
    And there was this post too about preditory mites.
    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]I've used predatory mites. It was a good solution, but I don't know that it was the best solution, or perhaps I didn't time it right. By the time I released my predators, significant damage had already been done. I saw some additional damage, though less, and the spider mites were not eliminated completely.

    If I were to do it again (mite predators are not terribly expensive), I'd release them right when I see the first signs of mite damage. And more of them. But I'm wondering if dart frogs like spider mites...

    Beware the evil imidacloprid!!! Works great on lots of pests, but if you are a catasetum or cycnoches grower, spray a miticide very soon after your imidacloprid (bayer spray or Merit). This stuff actually is like viagra for spider mites (no, really, proved with science even). I found this out the hard way, the really hard way.
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