TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
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Here is Ludwig's method.
http://pitcherplants.proboards34.com/?board=general&action=display&thread=3550&page=1
Cheers,
Joe
http://pitcherplants.proboards34.com/?board=general&action=display&thread=3550&page=1
Cheers,
Joe
It's a N. 'Ile de France' I got from Pyro. I was really excited when he offered me this cutting because of his pictures he shared a while back. I am pleased to be seeing it do so well.
xvart.
Last edited:
jimscott
Tropical Fish Enthusiast
Several weeks.
The method I've used most successfully these last few years with Nepenthes cuttings is to cut the severed end longitudinally with a razor blade once or twice, to expose even more potential germinal tissue (in a crosswise manner -- recently illustrated on this forum) and dip it in Clonex. This rooting hormone is very viscous and completely seals the cuts. I then plant the cutting(s) in my preferred media of live sphagnum moss or in a standard mixture of LSM, peat, perlite, pumice, orchid bark, etc. and don't disturb it until I see new growth from the node(s). Tbs and humidity levels appropriate to growing a given Nepenthes species, whether being highland or lowland are applied.
I've rooted any number of species this way -- Nepenthes hamata most recently -- with very few episodes of failure, regardless of the size, age of the cutting, or the number of nodes (most of mine are single) . . .
:grin:
Crissytal
What is and what should never be
Hmm apparently I looked over this thread after the first couple of posts.
I think the type of nep that one tries to root also plays a part. I have read that ampullaria cuttings in particular can be tricky. From the article that I read on them, it takes the amp at least four nodes before the stem hardens. It's recommended to take a minimum of a four node cutting from ampullarias. To be safe, I'd personally take a five or six node cutting.
Another method that is supposedly really good, if one has the plant on hand, is air layering. It is considered nearly fool proof. Using this method you do not need to worry about loosing the future cutting if the air laying is unsuccessful (supposedly), the wound might heal up but that's it. If that happens more attempts can be made.
Air layering article:
http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8130
I received what's believed to be a N. 'Miranda' cutting a few months back. The bottom was notched, dipped in rooting hormone and placed into a typical Nep media. This was almost a disaster for me. After about a month of watching the cutting slowly degrading, I decided to pull it up and see what was going on. It started rotting. I had another node to work with, so I trimmed off the black parts, did some more notching (vertically using ludwig's method) and placed it in water. The cutting perked up within hours of being put into the water. Now it's actually producing a new leaf and I believe I see a root emerging from one of the vertical slits I did over the next node.
Crystal
Since this is about Nepenthes cuttings, I have a qestion about it. I'm trying to root this ventrata cutting (it was actually a plant that I wanted to go into my tank, so I took it out) and I first put it in 50/50 peat and perlite and I got no progress except for a little thing that poped up. After a month, or so, it got fungus or some unknown thing so I took it out, having no roots, and put it in a cup of water (distilled). It hasn't been a month yet, but it's producing a mucus-like liquid. Is that good? Is the base rotting? (Btw, that's not a root, it's a piece of the base from the slice I made) Also, someone said they root better without light. I currently have it in my tank with two cool white bulbs and the temps are in mid-high 70s (Finally!). Any advice would be helpful.
After a while, the leaf finally opened while it was in the water. This isn't a good thing, is it?
After a while, the leaf finally opened while it was in the water. This isn't a good thing, is it?
Maxx
Someday is not a day of the week.
No, I don't think that mucus is good.
I have a raff cutting in water after it wouldn't root in a complicated and over-dense Nep mix, and it has the scummy mucus stuff on the cut area. As far as I can tell, that's bacteria, but it seems to not be fatal to my cutting (so far).
Changing the water would reduce the bacteria problem temporarily, but I wouldn't suggest a water change; that water may contain hormones that the cutting released that may help it root. Again, it doesn't seem that the bacteria are harmful.
Also, you may want to try letting the rooting area get less light, but to keep giving the leaves light is important; they make the hormones and photosynthesize to help build thye roots. Browning of the rooting area is also normal.
Leaves open on cuttings even if they don't have roots sometimes. It's normal. But in your picture it looks like the growing tip is seriously browned. Now that is not normal, and not a good thing.
So, all I can suggest, based on my knowledge, is that you keep it how it is, and watch how it does.
Hope I helped,
Jimmy
I have a raff cutting in water after it wouldn't root in a complicated and over-dense Nep mix, and it has the scummy mucus stuff on the cut area. As far as I can tell, that's bacteria, but it seems to not be fatal to my cutting (so far).
Changing the water would reduce the bacteria problem temporarily, but I wouldn't suggest a water change; that water may contain hormones that the cutting released that may help it root. Again, it doesn't seem that the bacteria are harmful.
Also, you may want to try letting the rooting area get less light, but to keep giving the leaves light is important; they make the hormones and photosynthesize to help build thye roots. Browning of the rooting area is also normal.
Leaves open on cuttings even if they don't have roots sometimes. It's normal. But in your picture it looks like the growing tip is seriously browned. Now that is not normal, and not a good thing.
So, all I can suggest, based on my knowledge, is that you keep it how it is, and watch how it does.
Hope I helped,
Jimmy
