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Thread: Anyone growing N. Northiana?

  1. #25

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    I've heard a little about using charcoal but nothing as far as results of using it. What's your opinion on it and how effective it is at lowering the pH?

    Funny you mention the black rot symptom, there was a thread from another grower not that long ago about a Nep that succumbed to it. I forget who it was exactly and when it popped up but the situation was as well in vitro. In general many lower pH inhibit bacteria growth or any living matter for that matter except for a few so I would be curious to know what exactly 'the black rot' is. So many questions from just one thread haha

    I'd like to hear about you're results with charcoal and hopefully get a little bit of detailed information and your opinion (and anyone elses for that matter) with it as to whether or not it would a good idea to implement it in a general Nep mix.

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    I have used charcoal as a component for years in Nepenthes, Sarracenia, Dionaea, and Cephalotus composts -- primarily as an additional source of aeration and drainage, not as an agent to lower pH; though many species do grow in areas frequented by wildfire, and it seemed like a logical ingredient for a planting mix. Charcoal does neutralize some chemicals such as chlorine, but whether it's that helpful in the small amounts seen in composts -- usually ten percent or less -- is doubtful . . .
    “Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."

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    the major problem with us discussing clay as a soil additive is that there are roughly 30 different pure clays.....most natural clays are a mix of these 30 pure clays and can include other minerals such as the iron we are discussing.....when i talk about clay here in Montana im talking about something actually a bit different in properties and composition than the common red clay back east and your red clay is prolly different from the red clay Cindy is talking about.....its about enough to drive a guy to drink ....and even here i run into variations in the gray clay cause some of it is clay produced by marine deposition and some of it is as near as anyone can figure decomposed volcanic ash.....
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  4. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBella View Post
    I have used charcoal as a component for years in Nepenthes, Sarracenia, Dionaea, and Cephalotus composts -- primarily as an additional source of aeration and drainage; though many species do grow in areas frequented by wildfire, and it seemed like a logical ingredient for a planting mix. Charcoal does neutralize some chemicals such as chlorine, but whether it's that helpful in the small amounts -- ten percent or less -- seen in composts is doubtful . . .

    I agree with the idea that it would be a common 'ingredient' in these soils as many Sarracenia so encounter wild fires frequently. Though the charcoal would minimize the charcoal would it be a necessity if say one were to use strictly rain water and RO water so that no chlorine or very little would be present? I was mainly aware that charcoal was in use for pH levels as well as aeration.

    So do you use more then 10% within your mix? I"m assuming the charcoal used for the mix isnt the 'bbq' type of charcoal so where would I go about obtaining it? How large is it in the mix? (bbq charcoal size, dust or in between?) I would be curious to do a litmus paper test and take a look at the pH difference between soils containing charcoal and ones not containing.

    Sorry for so many questions, i feel like I'm taking the thread over :S

  5. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by rattler View Post
    the major problem with us discussing clay as a soil additive is that there are roughly 30 different pure clays.....most natural clays are a mix of these 30 pure clays and can include other minerals such as the iron we are discussing.....when i talk about clay here in Montana im talking about something actually a bit different in properties and composition than the common red clay back east and your red clay is prolly different from the red clay Cindy is talking about.....its about enough to drive a guy to drink ....and even here i run into variations in the gray clay cause some of it is clay produced by marine deposition and some of it is as near as anyone can figure decomposed volcanic ash.....
    You bring up yet another good point that makes my mind twirl in circles lol.
    The red clay that Cindy is talking about is from the Indonesian islands and from the sounds of it nutrient poor. The thought of Indonesia led me to the high rainfall thought and that brings me to the realization that that tropical rain forest soils are also very low in nutrient content due to the high rain content washing minerals away. Yet there is no where else on Earth where one can find so many different plants growing in one location.

  6. #30
    Is ready to take this hobby to a whole new level DavyJones's Avatar
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    Jimmy:

    What kind of conditions are you supplying your plant with? How hardy has it been in your conditions?
    "We are in a sense the Universe trying to understand itself. By Observing it we are observing what we are." - Phillip Plait

    Growlist: Updated 1/11/12 http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=110846

  7. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by F R e N c H 3 z View Post
    I agree with the idea that it would be a common 'ingredient' in these soils as many Sarracenia so encounter wild fires frequently. Though the charcoal would minimize the charcoal would it be a necessity if say one were to use strictly rain water and RO water so that no chlorine or very little would be present? I was mainly aware that charcoal was in use for pH levels as well as aeration.

    So do you use more then 10% within your mix? I"m assuming the charcoal used for the mix isnt the 'bbq' type of charcoal so where would I go about obtaining it? How large is it in the mix? (bbq charcoal size, dust or in between?) I would be curious to do a litmus paper test and take a look at the pH difference between soils containing charcoal and ones not containing.

    Sorry for so many questions, i feel like I'm taking the thread over :S

    Typically, I use no more than ten percent is used of horticultural-grade charcoal in a compost as an inert ingredient (though I know of growers who use more without ill-effects and others who do); and, considering what the other bulk ingredients are in any given mix -- sphagnum peat, sphagnum moss, some sands -- it is truly an acidic environment, charcoal or not . . .
    “Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."

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  8. #32
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    Frenchy: Eh. Charcoal is just another aggregate for me; I occasionally use orchid mixes that have it already mixed in with bark, and perhaps some other additives. I haven't noticed any ill effects while using it, and soil pH doesn't really matter, in my opinion - as long as it stays within a certain range that doesn't approach "concentrated sulfuric acid" or "anhydrous sodium hydroxide," lol. It shouldn't swing too far in either direction, and I'm sure that charcoal is inert enough to not cause any notable drop or rise in pH. I could probably see problems arising, though if you use more than, say, 30% charcoal in your mixes AND water with anything but pure water for extended periods of time without changing the media. But regular media changes and pure water are practically the norm for CP growers.

    Davy: My N. northiana grows on my magic windowsill, lol. It grows right next to N. bellii (LL) and N. mantaligajanensis (HL). The N. mantalingajanensis grows near N. tentaculata, N. hamata, and N. glabrata as well - all highlanders that most growers assert require highland conditions... But right now, my conditions are in the very high 70's/low 80's, with 35% relative humidity. The N. northiana also grew well in intermediate/HL temps (still with low humidity, but in winter) I don't have any LFS in its mix - just aggregates - but I did use a thin top-dressing of LFS. It gets top-watered every 2 or 3 days.
    "I'm just a scientist without the proper documentation."

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