TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk
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Nepenthes robcantleyi (formerly known as Black Truncata)
Yes, they are all seed-grow, genetically unique individuals. Still, there appears to be remarkably little variation between them; most have fairly wide peristomes that age to a deep chocolate brown hue. Both of mine are nearly identical.
Jcal
Decumbent Fanatic
i seem to remember 2 releases one sg and one tc but i am quite often wrong
As with Paul, I've been under the impression that all are SG. The website availability list only describes SG plants: "This is a limited offer of seed-grown plants and once stocks are exhausted, it cannot be repeated for several years.". I suspect that the info from the US vendor is incorrect. You can always email Rob & check - he has been responsive to my queries.
I have often seen hybrids that I know are seed grown listed as TC by this vendor and have been puzzled by this listing as such. I suspect it is an unintentional error. Call and ask, if you want to be certain.
mato
BANNED
Mine grows fast and steady with the same highland conditions that all of my plants - more or less regardless of altitudinal requirements (with the exception of those specific "ultra" lowlanders) - experience. It has seen very warm days in the summer with nights in the 60s, to days in the low 70s and nights in the high 40s; it grows fine in both. Don't keep it too wet and give it the typical Nepenthes light intensity.
Jcal
Decumbent Fanatic
Options A&B didn't work for me. I received a plant in the 1st release. It grew very well, so well that I needed to repot it into a larger pot after several months. Then growth stalled. I tried all kinds of stuff but it wasn't until I repotted again that it resumed normal growth. Originally planted in an airy mix with peat. 1st repot in larger pot with same mix as 1st (so it makes no sense that the media is an issue - right? Wrong!). 2nd repot was in a media without peat. Go figure...
Now that is useful information! Thanks Ron.
I have two plants from two different vendors. Both are doing exceedingly well in my highland greenhouse. (although day temps from June through early October can reach 83F for brief periods, which technically places my GH into the intermediate range. Night temps are always below 60F year-round, however, and almost always 55F or less) Light intensity is, well....intense! I use shade cloth from about ten AM in the morning (only from June to mid-September) till about 4 or 5 in the afternoon. (I roll it on and off as needed) The times when shade cloth is not in place, the plants get full sun exposure. Some types, like the hybrids heavily influenced by N. veitchii, are that pale yellow-green hue that indicates they are receiving maximum light intensity, but my plants never burn, so I conclude they are getting optimal light.
Under these conditions, the robcantleyis are producing lamina and pitchers that almost double in size with each new growth. Both, however, I would classify as slow growers; not as slow as N. lowii, but close. My one complaint about this species (if it is really a species: opinions vary!) is that in bright light the lamina get marked with those so-called "rust" spots; unsightly when there are a lot, but it doesn't seem to affect the plants health. Fungicides do not appear to stop these spots from forming, so I question whether there is actually a pathogen at work here, as some growers claim. Conspicuously, only certain species and their offspring are inclined to do this, and mainly during the summer months when light is most intense. For me, lowii and its hybrids don't do this at all, while many spectabilis hybrids do, and my two BE clones of N. spectabilis get a lot of spotting, to the point of being quite unsightly. If anyone can share their experiences with this leaf spotting issue, I'd like to hear more opinions. (Empirical data preferred, of course; anecdotal info isn't very helpful)
Paul
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So what media do you use for the plants, do you think i should repot?
Paul ive seen rust spots on many healthy plants espdcially lowlanders grown in very bright light it seems some species and their hybrids do indeed do this ive had a few plants do this without ill effect and fungicedes didnt help. I see in photos of neps in nature that they also have the spots. Maybe its natural
Paul ive seen rust spots on many healthy plants espdcially lowlanders grown in very bright light it seems some species and their hybrids do indeed do this ive had a few plants do this without ill effect and fungicedes didnt help. I see in photos of neps in nature that they also have the spots. Maybe its natural
Exo
Tastes like chicken!
Well, I can tell you my experiences with this rather fickle species....
1. Mine does NOT like HL temps, it is an obligate intermediate, night temps below 60 really seem to get it's panties in a bunch.
2. Mine does NOT like intense light, it get's the aformentioned "rusty spots" and all sorts of uglyness. so far, I have found a nice spot about a foot and a half below 2 T5 shoplights that it seems to like.
3. It does NOT like peat, as has been said, this plant likes a VERY airy mix, and like truncata, doesn't seem to mind being kept a bit dryer once in a while. so far, a mix of orchid bark, lava rock, and LFS seems to please it.
1. Mine does NOT like HL temps, it is an obligate intermediate, night temps below 60 really seem to get it's panties in a bunch.
2. Mine does NOT like intense light, it get's the aformentioned "rusty spots" and all sorts of uglyness. so far, I have found a nice spot about a foot and a half below 2 T5 shoplights that it seems to like.
3. It does NOT like peat, as has been said, this plant likes a VERY airy mix, and like truncata, doesn't seem to mind being kept a bit dryer once in a while. so far, a mix of orchid bark, lava rock, and LFS seems to please it.
I'm off to inspect my plants for said "bunched panties" effect!
