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  • #22
BTW...I also used 99% isopropyl alcohol....not the crappy 70% rubbing alcohol. lol!
Our chief microbiologist* taught me that this is a case when stronger is not better. According to her, IPA kills by drying out critters. 70% is better because it persists long enough to be impactful where higher concentrations evaporate too quickly to be as effective.
--------------------------------
Later edit: while the above is true concerning microbiological pests (bacteria, etc), I realized in hindsight that it may not be the same with larger critters (insects, mites, etc) - although the logic probably still holds true....

* - from a previous life where I worked in a large pharmaceutical manufacturing facility.
 
  • #24
So i decided i would also repot some today and i also found them on my female n. khasiana, they have taste for expensive plants is what im finding out...ill ask to get some better pesticide and possibly the alcohol, do they effect any other plants or do they just target nepenthes? And when applying the alcohol, do i go straight 70% or do i dillute it at all?

---------- Post added at 09:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 PM ----------

I received feedback from the seller, he said they were easily treated with Orthene, spraying and watering, has anyone used this before?
 
  • #25
Damn! A day after I reading this thread I found these same things on a Nep I received from a Hawaiian nursery! It looks like they recommend Orthene.
 
  • #26
the outbreak is growing......

i was told to use orthene buy the seller and since it was an outdoor pesticide i wasn't sure, and people said it was pretty strong stuff.

i also contacted on of my favorite nurseries and they recommended using bayer brand insecticide or and insecticide that is high in imidacloprid.

i bought the Bayer Advanced concentrate

and followed the instructions to mix it and i treated them the day after i used the neem and repotted, things seem to be ok with the plants, not burning the leaves. hard to tell there might be a couple spots but nothing major yet. it says

+kills surface insects in 24hours
+kills soil insects for up to 3 months
+up to 90 day subsurface insect protection
+kills tons for insects including whiteflies

im not sure compared to others if its high in imidacloprid but it has .72% though its also a concentrate, (mix tablespoon/gal)...o well i just read its for outdoor purposes but safe after it dries (1hr) so its too late now they're all treated including houseplants

ill let everyone know how everything goes
 
  • #27
Thanks for the info dustin! My problem is I have animals. So treating with nasty chemicals is not really an option for me right now. I can take the plants out side and treat in the spring. Keep me updated and I will do the same.
 
  • #28
Hmmm, reading this I was reminded why I NEVER allow the pesticides to get into the water trays any more.

Cats will drink even the nastiest, peatiest water, even if they have an unlimited supply over by the food. :eek:
 
  • #29
This is why Trading Sucks . because you just never know
 
  • #30
This is why Trading Sucks . because you just never know

HELLO? Did you say that?

I read in THIS tread that someone received a plant with the pest from a Hawaiian NURSERY!

In fact, many traders are more careful than nurseries. Besides, you can't buy everything!

Trading also gives a much better "bang for your buck".
 
  • #31
Yup ill keep everyone updated on the progress.

yes i have pets too, i have some neps up away from the cats and dogs... and the rest are in my room so no animals get there besides me really :p

i also googled whiteflies real quick after i got an idea of what the pest was and there was an organic way to kill them with like a fungus im not exactly sure one what it was, but if anyone else has info about this it would be great to hear some more info, unless i read wrong.

i was also considerting trying that one organic brand of insecticide, i forgot the name but it was between the bayer brand or orthene, which were recommended to me, or one that i had no clue about. its name was like organicide or something like that.

Also you can mix the brand i got into a lawn treatable mix (3tbl/gallon or something like that), and it said after you spray let it dry or sit for about an hour, then it should be ok, which i think is basic for lots of lawn pesticides. and i though well my dogs eat grass sometimes. so maybe its not that lethal to animals when in extreamly small doses, it says once it dries its waterproof for a certain amout of time...like the 3month or so.
 
  • #32
This is why Trading Sucks . because you just never know
As SDCPs notes - it's not only from trades. However, by watching the forums, you can get a good idea of which commercial outfits are 'safe' and also have a clue which growers are likely to have issues. Based on risk/reward, I've limited my trading the last few years...

Recently I agreed to trade with an 'unknown' grower. Since I didn't want to risk involving my more-established plants, I took a hint from fish keepers. I set up a separate quarantine tank for the new arrival. I'm not yet sure how long I'll keep it in there all alone but it'll probably be be a month or 2. While the neps tend to handle pesticides pretty well, utrics & dews - not so much...
 
  • #33
Hey Dustin,

try trizacide (or othene). If neps are more resistant than dews, I use the full dose on dews (for scale). They just loose their dew for a couple of days. Its systematic also (2 month protection) !

Found at your local Lowes or Home Depot.

Just remember to treat all possible infected plants as the bug can build up a resistance!

---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 PM ----------

As SDCPs notes - it's not only from trades. However, by watching the forums, you can get a good idea of which commercial outfits are 'safe' and also have a clue which growers are likely to have issues. Based on risk/reward, I've limited my trading the last few years...

Maybe trading when the plants are dormant (if applicable) has something to do with the success rate. ???
 
  • #34
As SDCPs notes - it's not only from trades.

I agree. One the one hand, any plants that I brought home plants with pests were all from commercial nurseries--some of them highly trusted nurseries with phytosanitary certificates. On the other, all the trades I've done have been free of pests.

I also second the idea of quarantining plants upon arrival. I usually quarantine for a month. It is easier to deal with a single infected plant in quarantine than an entire infected collection.

-Hermes.
 
  • #35
Quarantine is not a sure way though. Many pests, at least for me, have wings and alight on my precious outdoor plants (nearly all of them). :-O

---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

Or they crawl.

---------- Post added at 08:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

But then I mostly get aphids, caterpillars, and ... oh, I forget what else.
 
  • #36
* - from a previous life where I worked in a large pharmaceutical manufacturing facility.

This caught my interest, since this is what I do in my current life - Chemistry Department, Utilities Testing.
 
  • #37
again i stand by what i said
 
  • #38
Today i looked over my caesar and found a few more small colonies under the leaves so i scrubbed them off with a cotton ball treated with the insecticide, and thats about all for today.

should i treat my drosera and pings with it too? i treated a couple of my drosera and so far it doesn't seem to do any damage so i guess i can treat the rest. im just not sure with the pings.
 
  • #39
Based on everything I read in this thread today, I think I will be throwing away the plant I pictured on the first page. Good luck in the battle with your plants.
 
  • #40
yup, sorry about that, i owe you maybe when i get everything under control, and pests eliminated ill see what i can do
 
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